HolyFord86: Trust me, I FULLY understand!!! lol
Just looked at wiring diagram: the inertia switch is after the relay. So if you jump relay and fuel pump works, the inertia switch is good and so is the fusible link.
Go back to the relay. First off, ensure you plugged the replacement relay in the right way. I don't know if you can put it in up-side-down or not, but if you do it will not work. Most of the relays have a diagram on the side of them to show which pins are your control and which ones are your contact.
You could plug your fuel relay into another spot and see if you here it click when you apply power to it. Or use small jumper wires from your battery to the control pins and see if you hear it click. No clickie, no good.
On the relay socket the red wire should be hot (+12V) all the time, with key on. The other side, of the control circuit is a tan/lt grn wire. It comes from the ECU and is what controls when the relay is energized or not. If you place your test light inbetween thest two connections and turn you key on, it should light briefly and than go out. If you crank your engine over, I believe, it should stay lit.
Yellow wire on relay is your power going to the fuel pump, it should be hot all the time (key on or key off). The org/lt blu is on the other side of the relay, going to the fuel pump. These are your relay contacts, the ones you have been shorting together.
99.9% sure your problem is either a bad relay, or somewhere in you control circuit.
Good luck.