F150 coil swap

[DennisH]

I was wondering if it was possible to put F150 coil springs on my 1994 3.0L 4x4 Ranger without having allignment problems? it allready has like two inch blocks on the back under the rear leaf springs. I'm assuming that it is stock and is suposed to keep the back from sagging if you have a load in the bed. Also what is involved in swapping these out and will it actually level out the front end and not make the front sit higher then the back.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Fall2003/F-150_coils_for_your_V8_BII_or_Ranger.htm

depending on how your truck left the factory, you may need new camber bushings to get your camber under control.

also note that guys that have done this swap claim the ride is VERY stiff.

and yes the 2" block in back is stock.

 

[wahlstrom1]

I actually preferred the ride with my F150 coils in. The stock coils were so sagged that under compression they would travel so far that they would actually allow the suspension to bottom out. I ran my F150 coils with 2" spacers and 4" lift brackets.

-andrew

 

[Dangeranger3]

I think drop brackets are necessary as it lifts 3-4" and they are usually only alignable after about 2" of lift. I put f150 coils in and after seeing the horrible positive camber I really don't think its alignable w/o drop brackets.

 

[DennisH]

so do you think that 2 inch spacers under the existing coil springs would be a better way to go? or even a 1 1/2" spacers. I dont want to buy drop brackets becuase i dont want to spend the money and i deffanitly dont want my brand new tires to be all chewed up on the outside becuase of positive camber if i dont buy the brackets. I think i might just go with a 1 1/2" washer spacer lift under the coil springs as described in the "lifting for cheap" in the tech section.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Ya, I'd do the spacers. The coils alone gave me 3.5"s on stock brackets, and around 2-2.5"s with the 4" lift brackets. A better idea yet may be leveling coils, as yours are probably sagged out, and the new ones are stiffer anyways.

-andrew

 

[Evan]

This is my truck with F-150 coils:

You can't tell from the pic as the truck is flexed out, but the camber is almost perfect. I have the stock bushings dialed all the way in. I do not have drop brackets. This was my DD for over a year. It cruised on the highway well (even with unbalanced tires and driveshafts) and tire wear was minimal, even in the rear which is welded.

The ride with F-150 coils is considerably stiffer, but I like that as I don't run a sway bar and the stiff springs reduce body roll. Despite being stiff, the springs still allow for respectable flex on the trail.

There is a certain amount of luck in getting away with swapping in 150 springs without adding camber bushings or even drop brackets, and getting a good alignment. My bushings came from the factory/previous owner dialed all the way out, so I had the full range of the bushings to work with. Each setup will be different.

A shot of one of the F-150 coils next to the old stock coil:

 

[wahlstrom1]

Ya, stock coils are as bad for different spring rates and lengths as aftermarket. If you find a set from a regular cab short bed they're likely to be softer and sort then a set from a 4wd ex cab long box etc....

-andrew

 

[DennisH]

which one would level it out the best and is the easiest? leveling springs or coil spacers?? i dont want to spend a bunch of money on this truck becuase i've allready spent enough in repairs. and how much lift can i get from the coil spacers until i run out of threads?

 

[wahlstrom1]

You can get as much lift as you need outta the spacers. I'd say somewhere's around 1-1.25" and still be able to get the nut down far enough. Remember the lift is 1.5 times as much as the spacer thickness due to the way the ttb pivots. I built mine 2" tall and had to make the center actually drop down below where the coil sat so the nut would thread down far enough. They take the same amount of work, but I'd swap whatever I found cheaper first, I made the spacers outta steel I had lying around, and the coils cost me $20 from the wreckers....the powdercoating cost me another $50 though, lol.


-andrew

 

[DennisH]

ya, i just dont want to do all the work then find out its not going to work or my allignment is all outa wack. i just can't stand the truck being all lowered in the front anymore, and i've had it for 5 years now lol

 

[wahlstrom1]

I'd do just a 1" spacer, anythings better than nothing right? Jack the truck up 1.5" on the frame and see how far it puts your aligment outta wack. I used a degree'd level (sextent?) and found out how high I could go before I was past 3.5", which is the biggest aligmnet bushing you can get.

-andrew

 

[DennisH]

ya, im deffinatly doing the coil spacers. i've been looking at trucks here and on the tech section and i like the easy application and its bassically free becuase i allready have the stuff to do it. where do you recomend to jack it up at on the frame exactly? use two jacks? and how much on average does an alignment cost? i think im going to do it before i get new tires so i can see just how much it does wear them down becuse my tires are pretty much shot now. The tops are just about gone but the sides have about 1/4" left on them. and on average how long does it take to complete this application? I have just about every tool you'll ever need and i am mechanically inclined. what size of washers is it agian? 3" OD and 1 3/8th" ID? how did you use the degree level? i've never used one before.

 

[DennisH]

Also will i need new front shocks?? if so how much what brand would you reccomend? and do you think that just 1 inch will make a visible differnece in the apperance of the truck?

 

[wahlstrom1]

Ok, from the beginning, lol:

1. I'd jack up on the frame just behind the radius arm so that the suspension has plenty of room to flex down. You'll need to remove the sway bar links and the shocks to get it to droop enough to pull the springs out. I've always just used one jack, and did one side at a time, or a jack and 2 jackstands as I've had two jacks try and roll away on me once....

2. Alignment up here in alberta is usually around 75$ a shot.

3. If you have all the tools handy and know what size sockets and wrenches you need for what, I've swapped coils and shocks in a half hour lunch break. For a first time though I'd give it a good hr, maybe hr and a half if you have to run around to find all the different tools. You may also find it handy to trim some of the inner fenderwell away from above the shock stud, as it becomes a major pain in the ass to remove the shock as you try and hold it back outta the way.

4. Sounds about right, I made my own, and the trucks sat for 7 months now without any suspension so me recollection of these things is gettin a lil scarce.

5. I didn't know really what to call it, but I found a pic of one I'll post below. I held it againt the wheel mount surface before and after, with the wheel off and weight on the truck on a stand under the diff. I used 1/4" plate's and worked my way up until I got the right height with my coils and spacers to give me the proper lift height without having to change alignment bushings.

The 1" spacer will give you around 1.5" of lift and even though it may not sound like much, you'll notice it.


-andrew

Here's around a 2" difference in ride height in the back of my truck. Like I said, every little bit helps and you'll notice it.