electric fuel pump replacement for oem in tank pump

[trueblue2]

Can I replace the In-Tank fuel pump with an external electric fuel pump without removing the original pump from the tank on a 1994 Ford Ranger 3.0 ?
I am trying to avoid removing the bed to replace the original.I realize that if the in-tank pump filter-sock or output filter is clogged,it will not work.
I will replace the external filter before deciding,I just want to know my options.
Can anyone recommend an external electric fuel pump that will provide sufficient pressure,if I decide to go this route?
Symptoms are: Cranks but will not start.-Pump runs for 2 seconds then turns off,but no pressure on fuel injector rail Shrader Valve,just a drop or two when I depress the valve stem core.
Problem was intermittent at first,knocking off when hot,then after 3 minutes,it would start again.Finally progressed to a crank but-no-start condition regardless if hot or cold.Am I correct to a presume a bad fuel pump?
Thanks in advance for all advice on this issue.

 

[bobbywalter]

just bolting on an external inline...no.

too much restriction.

you can pop its own feed in and get by....


but...if you are sure the pump is running and not building pressure...it may be a ruptered or loose hose between pump and carrier....or plugged up as you suspect...could be a bad connection at top of tank interface....corroded off pins ect...

quite possible the fuel filter is packed right off and a simple fix...after inspecting and replacing fuel filter and doing a volume test if it is not up to snuff.

best to just drop the tank and investigate

 

[trueblue2]

Thanks for your response!
The recommended pump change-out involves unbolting the bed,and sliding it back about a foot to access the pump from above.It can be done by removing the tank,but I am not physically able to do either.
Bed is full of heavy things,very difficult to move,and impossible to off load at my location,so I am considering an external pump.
I found a pump on line with a suction head of 100 inches water column,which is about -4.3 psi and a 43 psi output.
Would this work?
If not,how can I safely put another hole in my tank?Tank is about 3/4 full.
Thanks in advance again for your time and efforts on this.

 

[trueblue2]

Thanks for your response!
The recommended pump change-out involves unbolting the bed,and sliding it back about a foot to access the pump from above.It can be done by removing the tank,but I am not physically able to do either.
Bed is full of heavy things,very difficult to move,and impossible to off load at my location,so I am considering an external pump.
I found a pump on line with a suction head of 100 inches water column,which is about -4.3 psi and a 43 psi output.
Would this work?
If not,how can I safely put another hole in my tank?Tank is about 3/4 full.
Thanks in advance again for your time and efforts on this.

 

[bobbywalter]

Thanks for your response!
The recommended pump change-out involves unbolting the bed,and sliding it back about a foot to access the pump from above.It can be done by removing the tank,but I am not physically able to do either.
Bed is full of heavy things,very difficult to move,and impossible to off load at my location,so I am considering an external pump.
I found a pump on line with a suction head of 100 inches water column,which is about -4.3 psi and a 43 psi output.
Would this work?
If not,how can I safely put another hole in my tank?Tank is about 3/4 full.
Thanks in advance again for your time and efforts on this.

hmmm. then i would make an access door. which is precarious and can result in doom and destruction.

i have done it many times over the years in cars and trucks.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^
Carefully measure where access hole is in tank. Cut a hole in box to access top of tank. Find scrap truck box and cut oversize replacement panel and screw down over hole.

 

[trueblue2]

I have been considering an access hole through the bed,using 5 inch hole saw,which should be large enough to remove the original pump,and then welding 4 ears on the removed part and using 4 short elevator screws and RTV to seal it back to the bed when finished,OR accessing the tank through the fuel filler line for an external pump.
The only problematic part is getting a precise location of the pump before drilling.
Thanks for your reply,it has led me in a good direction.

 

[RonD]

No, on the external fuel pump, 100%, on 1989 and up Rangers

5" hole saw is probably not big enough, Google: Cutting Access For Ford Ranger Fuel Pump
Watch the videos

And if you are cutting a hole in the bed it means you have to remove most, if not all, "the heavy stuff".........................
So, one obstacle removed, slide the bed back

Hire a mobile mechanic to come out and swap fuel pump assemblies

Rangers have 2 different size fuel tanks
Regular cab 6ft bed have 17gal tank, short wheel base
Extended cab and Long bed regular cab have 20gal tank, longer wheel bases
So get the right pump assembly if you go that route

The thing about fuel pumps is that factory Motorcraft brand last 20+ years so its not like you need access to them very often, lol
If you decided to get 3rd party then an access panel may be a good idea, as these tend to need to be swapped out, under 2 year warranty 2 times to get one that lasts pasts the warranty

But Motorcraft pumps are 3 times the price so...................can be cheaper to use 3rd party but it can strand you as well

No way to seal the tank if you drill a new hole, need access to the inside of the tank to put on a seal and nut, not to mention some kind of filter, no amount of JB Weld can seal a plastic gas tank for very long
So still need access to the top of the gas tank

 

[bobbywalter]

first check your bed bolts.....if your bolts are actually removable, sliding the bed back isnt too hard to do.....i dont slide it back i just leave the passenger side loose and prop the bed up...just like when doing a body lift ect..

in the rust belt you cut a hole in the floor....a big hole, 10 inch ish and mud flap over the tank fittings and sending unit to protect it....no need to seal the bed floor up totally unless you have a topper and sleep in it....if you have a drop in bed liner....just drop it back in.



the plastic tanks are actually easier to drill at the top and grommet a line into it to seal it up verse taking a chance at sparking up a metal tank.....there are various purge valve grommets ect for them....a little right angle drive and step bit make short work of it.. using 1/2 in nylon line with brass compression 90 nippled to a 3/8 barb, hosed out to a pre screen, into a t rex pump......wellll lets just say that was a regular thing for many swaps over the years.




motorcraft....

my bronco has a hole in the floor.

because motorcraft pumps , while they do generally last longer....they just dont last long enough. ethanol fuel is the devil. the last unit lasted 2 years....and i have the wiring easy to access and have reversed it a few times to unstick it if it sits more then 6 months....which it has over the years here and there.....one time because it was a massive bee hive and the kids would not go near it. i work out of town and can be gone for months at a time...and if i aint there in the spring....those stinging shitheads dig in for the fight when i get back...


there are lots of ways to do this....if indeed your bolts are able to come out...its not too bad to just tip it up a bit.