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Electric choke?


jmcleek

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Where is the best place to get the power for the electric chock for a carb on an 87 ranger? :icon_confused:
 


superdave1984

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Has to be only hot when key is in "start" position, otherwise you'll burn out the thing. So track down your starting circuit.
 

kimcrwbr1

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If you have the externally regulated voltage regulator you can pull power from the alternator. Measure the voltage at all three terminals the large bat terminal is fot all the time the field wire is hot with the key on run and the stator terminal only has about 8 volts when the engine is running you can use the stator terminal on the alternator to power the choke thermostat only when the engine is running.
 

kimcrwbr1

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Otherwise you can use coil posative for the choke also.
 

bearsrngr

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I always used the alternator stator circuit on my cabed engines as well. I wasn't to fond of robing power from the coil.
 

jmcleek

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What wire is it that I can get into at the alternator? Is it the black with orange tracer, a yellow with a white tracer, or a green with yellow tracer?
BLack with orange is the main wire comming off the stator and is about a 10 gauge wire. A white and black wire comes off the S terminal of the alternator stator and goes down to another S terminal on the alternator itself. Would the stator S terminal be the positive terminal or would the alternator S terminal be the positive?
 

kimcrwbr1

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It sounds like your running a internally regulated alternator do you have a picture of the alternator? You will know with a volt meter it would be the terminal that has no power when the key is off and only 8 volts when the engine is running. If it is internally regulated you will need to find a key on hot to wire it to.
 

jmcleek

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It is an internally regulated alternator with ammeter. The wires on the back are black/orange, yellow/white, and green/red. The circuit I'm talking about inadvertantly hooks into the Start and the Run part of the switch and the light green/red wire runs to the voltage regulator. Is it this wire?
 

dangerranger83

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When I put my new edelbrock on a few weeks ago it said to hook it to a key on assesory postion. So far has been working like a charm. Hooked it into a place in my fuse box.
 

jmcleek

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When I put my new edelbrock on a few weeks ago it said to hook it to a key on assesory postion. So far has been working like a charm. Hooked it into a place in my fuse box.
Hooking it in with a fuse would be what I would perfer to do ,electrical fire dammage is not sumthing I want to think about. I will check the fuse box for a free plug in , or add a fuse in where I tap in.
 
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kimcrwbr1

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I do believe that is key on hot I`m basically running the choke and two solenoids for the vapor cannister on the same wire that is hot for the ignition module and uses very little power. As long as there is no power to it when the key is off. If you can find a grey/yellow wire that is key on hot for the heated oxygen sensor. I would start with a 5 amp fuse and put in the next size up up to 15 amp to rpotect the circuit in case of a short.
 

dangerranger83

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One side of the fuse is the power in (feed to the fuse box) and one side is the power out (through to the thing getting power) on the fuse. Hook the wire to the power out side of the fuse. My choke turns off in about two minutes at the most and I'm idling smooth. I also tap the gas real quick to see if the engine has warned up faster to help the choke open up faster/kick it off.

Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2
 

jmcleek

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Wich side of the fuze? The side going to the device in question or the power side?
 

kimcrwbr1

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Pull the fuse out and turn the key on. You want it on the side that has no power that way it is protected bu the fuse.
 

jmcleek

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I do believe that is key on hot I`m basically running the choke and two solenoids for the vapor cannister on the same wire that is hot for the ignition module and uses very little power. As long as there is no power to it when the key is off. If you can find a grey/yellow wire that is key on hot for the heated oxygen sensor. I would start with a 5 amp fuse and put in the next size up up to 15 amp to rpotect the circuit in case of a short.

So this is where I have decided to get the power for the choke.
Unfortunately this is after I've cleaned the wiring up and eliminated the fuzable link that this goes to. Oh well.:icon_confused:
-jmcleek

Well, the old man pulled out the glorious holy book of Rangers Wiring and had me look through it and I found a wire that would work just fine for what we had in mind, and noticed on the pages of this wonderful book that it went to a fuzable link. It was a plus! So we go outside to find said wire with it's link and we notice that he had already gotten rid of it out of one side of connector C102 that it ran to, the side that had the fuzable link. We were a little bummed but he figured that we could just go find a homemade fuzed link and remove the other side of the wire from the connector and just do it that way. While I wasn't supervising the old man he went and cut the power wire from the connector. :annoyed: No matter he fixed it and all is well. :icon_thumby:
-Daughter of jmcleek
 

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