Door Wiring - Where's it go and where can I get one?

[Mtrhd0024]

So I have a 1990 Bronco II, and it has electric door locks, windows, etc. Its the Eddie Bauer Edition, so I believe it's maxxed out with regards to the features these trucks came with.

Question is, the wiring harness that goes from the engine compartment to the doors on my Bronco, where can I get a replacement harness? Do any of the aftermarket companies offer them? After years and years of flexing where the door hinges, some of the wires are kinda broken, so my electric locks work intermittently. I'd like to replace the harness on each side so my electric stuff works 100% again. My truck got broken into on Christmas morning, and I want to install an alarm that has a keyless remote, but right now my electric locks only work if I hold the door ajar just right. I can see it only being a matter of time until my electric windows stop working, or go down someday and then won't come back up.

Also, where do these harnesses run? I see they run out of the doorjamb, behind the quarter panels, and then I have no idea where they go from there? I'm guessing they go into the engine compartment somewhere, but its hard to tell where they plug in with all the other wires. I heard rumors it’s under the radiator somewhere, but can anyone confirm this, or tell me how hard the harness is to replace?

Thanks guys! I'm sure someone on here has done this, so I just figured I'd ask!

 

[RobbieD]

The doors' wiring harnesses go inside the fenders to the front of the engine compartment, and then across the radiator support panel. Unfortunately, I don't know of any new aftermarket replacement harnesses; we're stuck with getting a good one from the bone yard, or the repair of the original.

 

[Mtrhd0024]

okay thanks!

I thought they went to the front of the car but wasnt sure. I was at a boneyard yesterday that specializes in mainly rangers, BII's, and explorers, and he was trying to tell me that the wires went through the kick panel into the dash... I was like... "Ummm have you ever LOOKED at a first gen kick panel? Cuz theres basically no wiring coming through.

Anyway, I might price the two harnesses at the Ford dealer. See if they can even get them, and how much they are. I bet they'd be HUGE money though. I wonder whether painless wiring could do a pair as well. It sounds like my best bet is gonna be to just re-wire everything. As much of a pain as that is.

 

[Ronv]

Why not build your own? I would recommend using marine rated wire because it is stranded and tinned vs automotive wire which does not have the tin. Buy the same colors and sizes and wrap them or put them in a loom and go to town.

Ron V

 

[Mtrhd0024]

Why not build your own? I would recommend using marine rated wire because it is stranded and tinned vs automotive wire which does not have the tin. Buy the same colors and sizes and wrap them or put them in a loom and go to town.

Ron V

Thanks for the advice, any idea where I could buy the wire and also possibly buy new plugs? I'd love it if I didn't have to salvage each individual pin from my old plug. Or I suppose I could snip each wire off about 5 inches from the plug and just solder the new wire to that. idk. I'll have a poke about on the internet and see what I can come up with!

I had thought about rewiring it, its just kinda a pain, and I figured I'd love it if I could just unplug the old, plug in the new, and be done with it. But I suppose once I've got the harness out of the car, rewiring it is not that much more trouble.

 

[Mtrhd0024]

Another question. Anybody know what gauge the wire in the doors is? I'm guessing 14 or 16 gauge? 16 maybe? I'm looking online at a site that sells tinned marine grade wire. Stuff's gonna get expensive at 7-9 dollars per spool of the stuff considering there's like 10 or so different colors of wiring in that loom.

Thanks for your help guys!

 

[RobbieD]

If it were me, first I'd pull the harness out of the truck, open it up and determine if it's best to repair or replace it. See if the plastic connector parts are all good, and if the terminals are not corroded or have frayed wire strands, and unwrap it to check that the wires themselves are still sound, with good insulation.

If your harness only has a wire break inside the insulation, but otherwise good, it may be more cost- and labor-effective to repair the original harness. A broken wire in the door jamb is pretty common, from the repeated flexing of opening and closing the door.

If you repair it, splice a new section of wire to go at least a foot back on both sides of the break- a splice in the flex area itself won't last. Then reloom the harness. Black vinyl tape or split loom (convulated tubing). I use both together when I rebuild or make harnesses.

If a harness is toast, I'd rather get another one from a junk yard. Good RBV wiring harnesses are still available in the yards, and for the most part reasonably priced. Myself, I also hang onto extra wiring harnesses, or even peices, for parts in future repairs.

Making completely new harnesses is also an option, but it's a much bigger job to do it correctly. Besides the wire, the connector parts and their terminals come into play. Inline connectors can be substitued, but plugs going into components will need to match the originals.

Bottom line, if it's nice, especially a nice stock truck, it's best to try and keep it stock if you can. It just looks better, and it's less headaches for future repair and maintenance.

Sorry for rambling on, but I've done a lot of electrical over the years, and I hope my thoughts and opinions are at least some help to you. I hate it that your truck got broken into; it looks like a nice one. Good luck!

 

[Mtrhd0024]

If it were me, first I'd pull the harness out of the truck, open it up and determine if it's best to repair or replace it. See if the plastic connector parts are all good, and if the terminals are not corroded or have frayed wire strands, and unwrap it to check that the wires themselves are still sound, with good insulation.

If your harness only has a wire break inside the insulation, but otherwise good, it may be more cost- and labor-effective to repair the original harness. A broken wire in the door jamb is pretty common, from the repeated flexing of opening and closing the door.

If you repair it, splice a new section of wire to go at least a foot back on both sides of the break- a splice in the flex area itself won't last. Then reloom the harness. Black vinyl tape or split loom (convulated tubing). I use both together when I rebuild or make harnesses.

If a harness is toast, I'd rather get another one from a junk yard. Good RBV wiring harnesses are still available in the yards, and for the most part reasonably priced. Myself, I also hang onto extra wiring harnesses, or even peices, for parts in future repairs.

Making completely new harnesses is also an option, but it's a much bigger job to do it correctly. Besides the wire, the connector parts and their terminals come into play. Inline connectors can be substitued, but plugs going into components will need to match the originals.

Bottom line, if it's nice, especially a nice stock truck, it's best to try and keep it stock if you can. It just looks better, and it's less headaches for future repair and maintenance.

Sorry for rambling on, but I've done a lot of electrical over the years, and I hope my thoughts and opinions are at least some help to you. I hate it that your truck got broken into; it looks like a nice one. Good luck!

Thanks for the reply, I think this is what I'm gonna end up doing! Its good sound advice, and It'll not really cost me anything. Already got the correct wire, solder, and heatshrink sitting in my garage, so all I've gotta do is pull the harness and splice in a new section of wire.

I've thought about getting a new harness from a junkyard, but I don't see a whole lot of point in that since its likely to be just as bad, if not worse than mine! My truck is indeed pretty stock, its been well maintained over the years (My grandpa bought it in 91, gave it to me 6 months ago, and he dumped thousands into it over the years to keep it on the road.) I don't want to do a half a$$ed job, I just want to do it correctly one time and be done with it for another 18 years.

Thanks again man, you've pretty much confirmed what I was contemplating doing. Its still a lot of work, but It should sort this thing out once and for all!