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Diff oil w/out traction additive


derrik

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Just like the headline states,I am stabbing a tracklock rear end under my truck,im not sure the condition of the clutch pack and I dont really care at the moment,im more excited to just finally drive it w/ 410's.
Any who,it seems that damn near every bottle of gear oil out there already has the traction modifier added.I am told that redline does not,but I need something a weeee bit cheaper because this is temporary,untill I save back up to rebuild the clutch pack......after I re-work the front suspension of course.

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derrik

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No one knows?I wanna get fluid after work! I cant find any thing that doesnt already have the modifier in it -_-

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bigmark303

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just go to any auto parts store and buy the store brand conventional 80w-90 gear oil.
 

MPRanger

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No one knows?I wanna get fluid after work! I cant find any thing that doesnt already have the modifier in it -_-

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Before you start to think the members of this site are ignoring you. You should check the time. Most members of this site work 8-5 Monday through Friday. Also check the Tech Articles. Lots of useful information there.


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derrik

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Ohh im fully aware,like I said,im trying to get it done as soon as im off work because my to do list is huge,if no one replies in time it will get idustrial grade oil that we put in the tractors for now.

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adsm08

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Um, why are you looking to put gear oil without friction modifier in a limited slip rear? If you don't know the condition of the clutches that means they might be good. If you don't add friction modifier you are guaranteed to toast them.
 

bobbywalter

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yeah, the friction modifier just makes the fluid more "slippery". regular oil is "drier" to the tractivesurface of the clutches and actually will cause friction issues that accelerate wear. no disadvantage to using the shelf fluid with the modifiers in a open, l/s or locker equipped diff.....well other then the marginal costs.


its the opposite of what most people think. i use used filtered trans fluid mixed at a ratio with diesel and most people think the friction modifiers will cause damage and not offer enough lubrication....:dunno:.....i dont know why the hell people insist on thinking automatic transmissions run on sand fluid....but they do for some reason.:icon_confused:


sad. but true. ignorance is not always bliss..
 

derrik

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Adsm08,from all that I can find,all that the modifier does is quiet down the clutch pack in a turn and allows it to slip enough to kill the chatter or locking up in a turn.I want it to lock as aggressive as possible.I also couldnt find anything that goes either way to say that running with or without modifier will reduce service life.(and I have been looking into this topic for months)so this is just an experiment for me,besides the clutch rebuild kits are cheap,and easy to install.to update the project and what happened last night.I found out that the rear brakes will not bleed,even with the rear lines dissconnected the brake pedal still does not hit the floor.however the fronts bleed just like they are suppossed to.proportioning valve?integrated in with the master cylinder? Well,once I came up with a brief theory and verified that I will have brakes,I took it for a drive w/ the full width 8.8. Ohhhhh muh gerd! Going from 355's to 410's is amazing!buuuut the clutches were fried anyway,or the mobil gear oil I put in just buggered em up,which I find to be unlikely because it is conventional 80w90.
Thankyou for the replies,there will be a build thread/pics of this truck once it gets a little bit further along

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bobbywalter

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well i can tell you from experience that it will destroy the clutch pack rapidly off road low traction situations with one tire frying, and if you tighten the pack, running it hard off road often grenades the steels and lunches the spiders much sooner without the clutch biased fluid.

i rather dislike the clutch posi. a locker or open is preferred. its never there when i need it. and unpredictable in icy conditions.
 

Tee Rev

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Redline 75w90 NS has no friction modifier.

I had an Auburn diff that was starting to let go so I changed to the Redline.
It was as good as new & lasted another few years of racing till I installed a True Trac.

I've also put it in a fresh built 8.8" traction lock almost 10 years ago. That diff is still better than new.

If you really want to do it on the cheap, just use regular gear oil without friction modifier.
 
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bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Redline 75w90 NS has no friction modifier.

I had an Auburn diff that was starting to let go so I changed to the Redline.
It was as good as new & lasted another few years of racing till I installed a True Trac.

I've also put it in a fresh built 8.8" traction lock almost 10 years ago. That diff is still better than new.

If you really want to do it on the cheap, just use regular gear oil without friction modifier.

i agree with you for a strip application totally


i thought about differentiating between street use and off road, but the full width 410 gear swap pushed me to ass-u-me this was a off road wheeler application.

for drag racing and street use the clutches are ok, especially with top of the line lubes and work pretty good.

off road is a totally different deal. i can easily destroy one ton shit with a 100 rwhp and at the same time a 1000 rwhp car at a drag strip will rarely hurt.
 

Tee Rev

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Most everyone I know, that do some serious 4 wheeling, go through gear oil like I go through underwear. & they all use lockers. As soon as they do any deep water, the oil is changed.

The Traction lock isn't a good fit for much more than a dirt road as far as off road use is concerned. They are too easily destroyed with or without friction modifier.

Since the OP already has plans to upgrade, he's not really going to hurt anything.
 

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