D35 Teardown - spring perch bolt removal

[Maui-sprint]

This is the bolt that holds the radius arm to the swing arm on a 1992 D35 assembly and also serves as the coil spring perch. Unless I'm mistaken, the plate and bolt are one piece? How do I remove this thing without completely destroying it?!?!?! I cannot locate a socket deep enough to use an impact on it and besides, there is barely any exposed bolt to get a good bite on it to overcome the 30 years of rust build up. I beat on the round plate hoping to loosen it but didn't want to go any further until i consulted the experts at TRS. I can most likely remove it with a large pipe wrench and some heat but then would have to replace it. I didn't want to spend the extra $$$ since will be sinking some dough into other areas. Do they even make these replacement parts?

 

[Shran]

The bolt is a separate piece. Might have to make your own socket, super deep 1-1/8 are hard to find in 1/2 drive. I made mine by extending it with a piece of tube and cutting the socket in half. You can find 3/4 drive super deep easier, I got one from Proto.

I'm thinking that washer is a leveling washer from Bronco Graveyard, it's not a factory piece that I've ever seen.

 

[Maui-sprint]

I knew it. That half-exposed nut looks suspect. I was thinking it may be after market too since there was a 4" suspension lift installed on the truck I removed the axle from. It must be rusted pretty solid then cuz I pounded it with a 5lb hammer and the thing didn't budge. I will try some other methods to remove the large washer, just wanted to get a second opinion before I beat the piss out of it. Will look for a 3/4 drive deep socket and apply some heat. Im sure it will do the trick. Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I found a deep socket years ago at Sears, 1-1/8” deep and 1/2” drive. I also have a couple different wrenches in that size, one is actually a hitch ball wrench. Definitely hard to get a deep enough socket for those, especially impact, but that was a good call on looking for 3/4” drive and use an adapter. I might have to take a closer look at what I got awhile back from an auction.

That bolt looks reasonably clean as far as rust, I’d try digging around it with a screwdriver or chisel or something, see if you can clean out around the hex some.

Not sure what to tell you on that flat thing. Not anything I’ve seen before.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

I'm too lazy to check my manual right now, but IIRC it specs the plate only on one side, or different numbers of plates on each side, stock. Like Shran said, this is likely for leveling purposes.

It also serves the function of a camber shim. The more plates under the spring, the more positive camber on that wheel.

 

[4x4junkie]

Hard to tell for sure in the pic, but it kindof looks like it's welded to the radius arm (which could explain it not wanting to come off)... If that's the case, then you'll have to chip away the rust enough to get a wrench or socket on it. Or maybe grind it out with a Dremel.

 

[Maui-sprint]

Interesting. It sure feels like its welded to the radius arm bracket when you bang on it. I will try to dig out the rust and get a deeper socket around it. Will also check the other swing arm to see if it has the same plate. Will post up findings tomorrow.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Okay, here's what I was talking about before. In the "radius arm" exploded view, you can see discs under the radius arm-to-beam bolts. I know they're smaller, but line drawings aren't always that exact. Bottom (13) is marked "washer", but top (17) is marked "washer LH side only".
This is a '94 manual, and this matches how my '93 beam came to me: plates under both bottom bolts, but only driver's-side top.

It isn't necessarily 100% authoritative. It seems like there's an error where part 15 is labeled as 18, and then you have (19) "washer LH and RH side", which doesn't seem to appear in the diagram. On the next page, in the "front spring" exploded view, the plate doesn't appear at all.

If anything, I think it shows use of the plates might vary from one axle to the next. I actually added an extra one on my driver's side in order to get my camber in spec.

 

[Maui-sprint]

Ok, so this occurs on BOTH the LH swing arm and RH swing arm. From the pics below you can see the previous owner appears to have made a 1/4" baseplate by burning out an larger opening in a circular disc then welding it with a pool of metal to the radius arm bracket (#15). Then on top of that went another 1/2" homemade spacer then on top of that the factory parts.

So basically I'm screwed here. In order to separate the radius arm from the swing arm I will have to burn/grind out a mass of metal. Any suggestions on how to separate these parts without destroying them?

Of course, I could just install them as is. But if anything breaks in the future will be a major repair job to say the least!

 

[Shran]

That lower thin spacer around the bolt doesn't look hard to remove. Angle grinder, cutoff wheel or a torch should get it removed quick. I believe this is what you are looking at:

Coil Spring Spacers, Pair-Broncograveyard.com

These .25 thick stackable steel shims are placed between the coil springs' bottom seat and the axle beams to offset ride height loss due to additional weight (winch, snow plow, equipment, etc.) and / or spring fatigue. Shims can be used for additional height if adequate camber adjustment is...

shop.broncograveyard.com

Why it would be welded in place is a total mystery. I've used those before and I weld them together if they need to be stacked, but NEVER to the beam or radius arm.

If you destroy the bolt trying to get it out, let me know and I will send you one or two. I have a bunch of them from trucks I parted out.

 

[ericbphoto]

It definitely looks as though a plate has been added. If it is welded, you'll have to figurebout how to cut the welds. Here is a picture of my '93 passenger side. You can see how the hex part of the bolt is thicker than what is exposed on yours.

 

[Maui-sprint]

Good detective work Shran. I agree that's probably what I'm dealing with. I cannot understand why someone would weld these either!?!?! Maybe they're not welded but just incredibly tight. The one side I'm working on (RH) won't budge at all when I pound it with a 5lb sledge. How tight do these things fit onto the bolt? I'm inclined to think they ARE NOT welded because I don't see any bead or grinding marks....
This weekend I will take a grinder to it and see it I cant coax it off.

 

[Shran]

Those are supposed to just slip on there, like a normal washer slips onto a bolt. Welded, rusted, whatever the case may be, you can buy new ones pretty easily if you destroy it so it's not a huge deal.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The bolt have lock tight from the factory. Heat is your friend, and maybe good for the washer that's rust-welded to the arm.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Kinda hard to tell exactly, but that last pic it sure does look like someone welded the washer/spacer to the hex, which is really not nice. That hex cleaned up nicely and the washer/spacer isn’t real ugly so I’m doubting it’s just rust at this point.