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Chasing Random Knock


cdxhizors

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So I haven't ever drove this ranger and would LOVE to...I've got close to 3000 in parts in it in the past few weeks after repairing the front twin torsion beams due to the wreck.. I start it and it has a coolant leak but runs great.. I drove it around the block a few times just to make sure it drove and it ran great. No noises or anything or smoke or steam..

So I try to change the thermostat and broke a bolt off in the intake. So I take the lower intake off to weld a nut to the leftover and removed the bolt. Bolt it all back together and start it...It idles fine and smooth, but randomly has one loud knock. I revved it and it knocked twice but not in direct relation to RPM. So I did the normal compression checks, coolant leak down and fuel pressure...everything seemed normal except I found a small leak in the heatercore bypass valve. Not a big deal.

So I pulled the transmission/transfercase. Clutch and flywheel are brand new and seem fine.. no cracks or anything. Inside the transmission seams fine(putting the clutch in or out made no difference to the knock)...So I pulled the motor, put it on a stand and that's where I'm at now.

I took the oil pan off and it all seems fine. No bent connecting rods, no obvious broken parts, no metal pieces. So my questions are:

1) If I remove the main and rod caps can I reinstall the bearings safely if nothing appears wrong? Or should I even mess with it?

2)I noticed the belt tensioner(idler pulley) has some forward and backward play in it. Alot and the spring seems weak to me...I can push it with my hand. Think it could cause a hard knock?

3) at least 3 of the plugs were wet with gas after days of sitting..and the injector nozzles were too. Think this could be a temporary hydrolock situation? Should I change the injectors to be safe?

4)Any suggestions from here? I'm thinking of bolting the trans and transfercase to the motor and dropping them in together..Since I'm alone and lifting the assembly back in from under will be difficult for me.
 


cdxhizors

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Anyone? Was hoping to have at least a response or two.. Considering all the views...
 

cdxhizors

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Last edited:

prymetime1

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Hey bud, it's only been a day. Just cuz it's been viewed a bunch of times does not mean anyone had good advice for your situation. I am by no means an expert, but if you are alil more patient, someone who has knowledge may chime in to help. Just my .o2. I so hope u get it figured out, good luck.
 

cdxhizors

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Hey bud, it's only been a day. Just cuz it's been viewed a bunch of times does not mean anyone had good advice for your situation. I am by no means an expert, but if you are alil more patient, someone who has knowledge may chime in to help. Just my .o2. I so hope u get it figured out, good luck.
I've removed what I said before and I'll leave this post for a while. Hopefully someone will chime in. I'm very frustrated with the truck as I hit the 3500 mark today and still have not figured out the problem.
 

Arkie 2001

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had to look at your profile. 4.0 ohv replace tensioner if in question pull plugs and turn over by hand see if it locks up
 

cdxhizors

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had to look at your profile. 4.0 ohv replace tensioner if in question pull plugs and turn over by hand see if it locks up
Spun it over by hand today on the stand without plugs.. Turns over fine. Took pan and valve covers off and inspected everything, nothing out of the ordinary and the cylinders still have cross hatching and no scoring. Everything looks fine so I'm thinking the noise is elsewhere. Is it possible for the fuel injectors to be flooding a cylinder while running, making it difficult to turn over after shutting off? I had to hold the gas to the floor to crank it over last time.. Pulling the number 6 spark plug after shutting it off actually makes a hissing noise as if it's stuck in compression stroke.

All valves look as if they're opening correctly from the top of the head.
 

Arkie 2001

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Been a couple weeks since original post. Have you found the cure yet? not a pro just try to help if I can. sounds like everything is put together right but remember it is a collection of parts that must all work together.
 

cdxhizors

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Been a couple weeks since original post. Have you found the cure yet? not a pro just try to help if I can. sounds like everything is put together right but remember it is a collection of parts that must all work together.
I did. My chiltons manual has the firing order incorrect. Such a stupid mistake. Never had plug wires wrong before so I've never experienced this issue which sounded a lot worse than it actually was. But it explains everything. Knocking when that cylinder sucks fuel in but can't ignite.. Not wanting to turn over after shutting it off because that cylinder is full of fuel. Motor is back in and hopefully will be done today. At least my oil pan gasket it fresh now! Never will trust chiltons again. I was told to stay away from Haynes.. But chiltons IS Haynes. Same company.
 

Arkie 2001

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good news use several sources and hope to get same answers remember tape around wire then marker pen
 

enjr44

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The 4.0 has a weird firing order and you got caught!! Man what a bunch of work!!
 

cdxhizors

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Started the motor yesterday and it runs pretty good.. Had a loud lifter tick for a bit.. Took it for a drive and it mainly went away except if you rev it to about 1500-2000 but higher than that goes away and below that goes away. Ideas? Drive it?

Also it has a slight miss to it at idle.. New plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump, intake gaskets(upper and lower).. I have a idle air control valve for it but not sure it'll help. Any ideas?
 

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