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BW1354, variation between years


Bray D

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Just curious, I saw in the tech library, http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TransferCases.html , that there's a difference between the 1995-1998 cases and the 98-00 cases.

The only difference is the front output. One has a fixed yoke with a speedo hole, and one has a cup yoke w/o a speedo hole.

I can swap yokes right?

What does the speedo hole do?

IIRC, the speedo sensor is on the rear output anyways...
 


AllanD

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I don't understand why you'd specifically want the MANUAL T-case from a '98-00
to swap into an earlier truck, it simply complicates things for you because of the different front output.

I also don't know what you are talking about with the speedo hole on the front output....
Ecen on some vehicles with electric speedometers ('95-up Rangers)
The speedo can be driven from a transmission mounted VSS as well as from
an Axle mounted ABS tone ring.

For a 1995-97 Ranfger the manual t-case to look foris the 1990-97 B-W 13-54 because it has the same front yoke.

IF you actually locate one of the RARE '98-up manual T-cases with the CV-cup front output and you converted it by swapping internal pieces one of thee 1998-up Ranger guys would probably beat you half to deal with a CV front driveshaft....

....even though the later Ranger guys can simply go hunting for a 1995 or early 1996 Explorer front driveshaft to allow them to use a 1990-97 13-54 manual T-case, but they generally don't know that... even though I've mentioned it about a dozen times..

The first year and some of Gen2 Explorer production used a halfmoon yoke on the front output of the 44-05 T-case which used an early style driveshaft (double cardan joint and a shaft mounted slip yoke) which is just the thing you need to put a 1990-97
13-54 into a 1998-up Ranger.... presuming they have the mounting pillars for a manual T-case shifter on their transmission.

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Bray D

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Thanks for the reply.

I don't want a manual 98-00 t-case, just the electric one. It will replace the rear case of my doubler (96 electric case). I've got 176k on my case, and its leaking where the planetaries bolt to the housing as well as the rear output.

I know where to get the 98-00 t-case (only 100k miles on it), so I figured I'd pick it up and swap out the whole t-case rather than dealing with my high mileage leaky t-case.

This is straight from the link I posted, and is the 1354 t-cases that were offered in Rangers.

BW1354
1990-1995 (Electric Shift) with speedo hole, with sensor hole fixed front output yoke
1990-1995 All (manual shift)
1995-1998 (Electric Shift) rear circular flange front fixed yoke with speedo hole, w/o sensor hole
1998-2000 (Electric Shift) rear circular flange, front cup yoke w/o speedo hole, w/o sensor hole,


As you can see, the only difference is the front yoke. My 96 has a standard fixed yoke with a speedo hole, while the 98-00 case has a cup yoke w/o a speedo hole.

Just wondering if I can swap the front yokes.
 

AllanD

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If your t-case is leaking take it apart replace the seal, and RTV
the front retainer back on...

As a note all three seals on a 13-54 Tcase are the same P/N

Y0ou really don't want the CV type output they were designed for
a front diff that's bolted rigidly (relatively) to the frame and the
design of the CV joint doesn't allow for much driveshaft plunge.

The "halfmoon yoke", Double-Cardan joint and SEPERATE (at the other end
of the shaft) slip joint will tolerate the articulation that even a Stock TTB
can generate.

But if you are running a doubler you'll need to have the "ends" welded
to a longer piece of tubing.

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Bray D

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You're not getting it.

If your t-case is leaking take it apart replace the seal, and RTV
the front retainer back on...
That was the plan, but I thought if I could get an entire case with 75k fewer miles than mine for cheap, why not just swap cases. With my luck I'd tear it down, seal it all back up, then 20k miles later my t-case gives up the ghost. Might as well swap in a younger one while I have it apart.

AllanD said:
You really don't want the CV type output they were designed for
a front diff that's bolted rigidly (relatively) to the frame and the
design of the CV joint doesn't allow for much driveshaft plunge.
This is why I'm wondering if I can swap it out for the "halfmoon yoke" that I have now.

AllanD said:
But if you are running a doubler you'll need to have the "ends" welded
to a longer piece of tubing.
I've been DDing this doubler for 2 years now. I've got the drive shaft situation all taken care of.

I'll give the guy that has the case a call and I'll see if I can go look at it. Its still under the truck, but maybe something will stick out that will let me know whether its possible or not.
 

77'cj7

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If you swap in a 98 - up case, your speedometer will stop working. The 97-down trucks have a speed sensor in the rear output of the case, and the 98-up have it in the rear axle.
 

Bray D

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Well I got a hold of the guy, and went to check it out.

Its out of a 3rd gen. Not a '99. IDK where or how that mix up happened. I guess all that matters is its a direct swap. I'll be pulling it Friday.
 

tomahawk350

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I bought a 1354 manual shift with the front driveshaft, but the bolts to attach the driveshaft to tcase yoke were not included. Can anyone tell me the size and threads of these bolts so I can pick some up...
 

tomahawk350

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Unfortunately...no it does not... All I need is a thread size of the 4 small bolts.
 

scotts90ranger

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I believe it's 6mm, you'll want socket head...
 

tomahawk350

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