Brake fluid change/flush

[Kirk]

How often should I change/flush the brake fluid in my '02 Ranger?

 

[Mark_88]

My Zuki calls for a complete brake line flush after 100,000 km, but I don't think it's ever been done...and my Tempo have almost 400,000 km on the clock when it finally retired, but I did bleed the rears after about 250,000 km.

Your service manual should give you a more specific time, but you probably don't need to ever touch it unless you have to replace a brake cylinder or caliper. I guess it depends on how finicky you are about following recommended service intervals so if you want to have it done, it's a great thing to learn...unless you need it as a DD...then you can pay to have it done...probably less than $100 for a shop to do it though...

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

brake fluid is something that is often overlooked. i cant say that ive seen old brake fluid cause problems with the brake system...but it certainly wouldnt hurt to flush it.

most auto parts stores carry dip strips for testing the copper PPM in brake fluid. once the fluid is contaminated to a certain level it should be flushed.

 

[MAKG]

Believe it or not, the Ford manuals don't list brake fluid at all on the maitenance schedule.

My VW has a 60,000 mile interval, very near the 100,000 km spec.

It's cheap and not that difficult. If in doubt, go at it.

 

[Earl43P]

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_howto_bleedbrakes.shtml

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bleeding_abs.shtml

 

[Kirk]

Believe it or not, the Ford manuals don't list brake fluid at all on the maitenance schedule.

I noticed that.

 

[MAKG]

And I should point out that ABS valves don't like water-filled (old) brake fluid.

This is a known and extremely common problem with 1-channel RABS. The reservoirs fill with rust, disabling the rear brakes with no "lights" or symptoms (aside from poor braking). Your 3-channel ABS may be different, but I doubt it. Other hydraulic parts don't like it either, but they are a bit more obvious.

 

[hopster]

I have seen brake fluid boiling problems due to moisture buildup in the system. But rather than flush the entire system Most technicians open the bleeder screw and push the the pistons back when they change brakes.

 

[Yellowsplash]

If you've never flushed the system out, now is the time. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and this increase in water content can accelerate brake component rust and corrosion, and subsequently component seizing and/or failure. As said above, most people just compress the piston back into its bore and slap it all back together. Take the time to bleed all corners and add fresh fluid (not old fluid sitting down in the garage) into the system. You can get a quart of fluid for less than 5 bucks which is plenty. You'll be ahead to take the extra few mins to do this.

 

[flagport]

How many are driving around out there with no rear brakes?

And I should point out that ABS valves don't like water-filled (old) brake fluid.

This is a known and extremely common problem with 1-channel RABS. The reservoirs fill with rust, disabling the rear brakes with no "lights" or symptoms (aside from poor braking). Your 3-channel ABS may be different, but I doubt it. Other hydraulic parts don't like it either, but they are a bit more obvious.

As MAKG points out, and has been well-documented throughout the many threads in "brakes" category, the ABS valve, or more technically correct, the ABS Hydraulic Unit mounted on the frame just below the driver's clutch foot is a real sleeper relative to operation, or lack thereof, of both rear brakes.

I recently started a repair project on my 92 2WD ranger, thinking I had a rear right bearing freeze up. Upon removing the brake drum, a number of metal pieces of the brake adjustment system fell out on the garage floor. They were well worn at whatever place they were dragging on the drum, and were the obvious cause of the overheating (smoking) drum/axle on the right side, rather than the bearings.

Well, as I put everything back together with a new wheel cylinder, new brake shoes, new parts kit, and new drums, I wasn't able to get any brake fluid out of the bleeder valves on either rear wheel. Lots of research on this forum resulted in identification of the ABS Hydraulic Unit to be the likely culprit, seizing up over time, probably from moisture in the brake fluid, and preventing brake fluid from flowing past the unit to the rear brakes. Obviously, the front discs were the only stopping power for the truck for a good long time.

I would think that if no one hardly has the need to change fluid or bleed brakes, then a lot of Rangers are running around out there with no rear brakes, and they don't realize it.

Am I making more out of this "hidden" problem than I need to? It just scared me, apparantly getting little press unless you go hunting for it or have a specific need to be bleeding the rear brakes.

Hope this enlightens.

Regards,
Ron

92 Ranger
2WD
2.3L

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

i wouldnt loose any sleep over it....or avoid driving near other ford rangers on the freeway because of it.

my truck has (what appears to be) the original 1993 brake fluid in it, i live in the soggy pacific northwest, and my rear brakes work fine. ive seen some rotten, NASTY rangers that still have fully operative rear brakes. i would say MAKG's example is the exception rather than the rule.

of coarse thats not to say it couldnt happen to any one of us

 

[FL_forlife33]

new wheel cylinders

reading up on alll these brake issues is fascinating, I have a 99 ranger I bought from a friend (i know, bad idea) and the ABS light was on when I bought it, i talked him into taking almost 500 bucks off the price because the ABS light was on and it could be anything from the entire system (hydraulic unit) bad, or just a sensor... he gave me a discount. anyway!

so i just put some tape over the light and drove on, no problem, brakes worked fine (not anti-lock though obviously)... didn't want to pay 101.00 from the ford dealership JUST to plug it into the computer. just recently my rear brakes started to lock up when normal breaking is applied, and it's getting worse and worse... took it to get an estimate, and they told me the brake (wheel) cyinders we're leaking, and the brake fluid is bad and needs to be flushed (indicator strip, they showed me)... so i went out and bought some new cylinders from local auto parts store (only 17.00 a piece! wow!) and plan on replacing them and flushing (bleeding) tonight..

my question is: are some leaking cylinders enough to cause the breaks to lock up, it doesn't seem that they're leaking that bad, and i doubt some old fluid would be enough to do it, yea? ALSO, could this locking up issue have anything to do with an entire braking system, involved with the ABS, starting to die?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

If the brake fluid gets onto the shoes it will cause them to be touchy and lock up. If the shoes get soaked in either brake fluid from leaking wheel cylinder or gear oil from leaking axle seals toss em and get new ones.

 

[FL_forlife33]

replacing brake cylinders

So i'm going to attempt to replace the brake cylinders today, The guy at the parts store made it sound like it was really simple. Is there anything I should keep in mind when replacing them? As for as I know, it's just two bolts, and then bleed the brakes....

Anything else?

any help would be awesome, thanks so much

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

you would be wise to have a set of line wrenches handy for removing the brake lines from the slave cylinders. they are undoubtedly rusted together.

other than that, its pretty straightforward.