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Brake caliper touches shock


mnewman

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1986 Bronco II. I've installed a 3" stage II lift from James Duff and I am having an issue when I turn full lock to the left. When I do that the brake caliper (actually the brake line/bolt) touches the shock to the point where it depresses the piston and makes it so I have to pump the pedal several times to get brakes back. Has anyone else run into this? The brakes are stock and I know they switched late in '86 to a different style caliper. Can anyone verify if switching to the newer style caliper will fix this? It's really a bad feeling when I turn too far and there is no brake pedal. I won't let anyone else drive it because of this either. I've sent a message to Duff but I haven't heard back yet.

Also of note this is D35 swapped and this condition was still present on the D28.

Thanks.


Since everyone likes pics and I like showing this thing off...
20230428_183245.jpg
 


Uncle Gump

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Since you like showing it off... cool truck BTW... post a couple more pictures of the offending area's. Like pics of the banjo bolt... caliper... shock mounting.

That would be a pretty sick feeling having no brake pedal after turning left.

You could avoid left turns like my sister did after starting driving. She would avoid left turns by making three right turns.
 

mnewman

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That probably would have been a good idea. I will try and grab some after work.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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On an old 54 truck there was stops to prevent turning too much. Not sure if the samenwould be on yours.
 

RonD

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+1 ^^^

I don't think I have ever come across a vehicle that didn't have physical stops for front wheels that set turning radius

Is the new shock's diameter much larger than old shock?

Can't visualize what is happening?
The external brake line moving shouldn't effect caliper's piston position, that's a pressure thing
Unless turning left all the way causes that hose to leak fluid/pressure

The caliper does slide in it's holder to compensate for brake pad wear, so if there was outside pressure pushing caliper towards the wheel/rotor it would force piston back in as inside pad was forced against rotor but I would expect harder braking on that wheel and other wheel as pressure increased
And maybe longer pedal travel after the turn as piston needs to be pushed out again to match pad wear
 
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Uncle Gump

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I went out and looked at my Dana 35. It is possible that if the banjo bolt contacted the shock... the caliper would be forced into the rotor and it would push the piston in... and the outer pad away from the rotor. This would result in the next pedal push moving the piston out and pulling the outer pad back to the rotor... with little to no brake effort from the driver side and a low brake pedal.

I looked for physical stops... like an adjustable bolt. There is none on a Dana 35. It is more likely a hard stop caused by contact from the knuckle contacting the traction beam. It's possible I suppose to change the physical stop by welding a bead to the beam or knuckle.

Also... if camber is out of whack... it could potentially cause the banjo bolt to be closer to the shock then it should be if it were properly aligned.
 

mnewman

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I need someone to hold the wheel at the full lock position but this give you an idea of what is making contact.
Inked20230602_111559_LI.jpg
 

mnewman

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Actually i think its the "rear" shock not the "front" that the fitting makes contact with.
 

mnewman

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I went out and looked at my Dana 35. It is possible that if the banjo bolt contacted the shock... the caliper would be forced into the rotor and it would push the piston in... and the outer pad away from the rotor. This would result in the next pedal push moving the piston out and pulling the outer pad back to the rotor... with little to no brake effort from the driver side and a low brake pedal.
That's exactly what's happening. Much better way of describing it.
 

Uncle Gump

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I would think there would be a physical scratch or mark on the shock where this was happening.
 

mnewman

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Looking down from the top of the tire
20230602_200751.jpg


20230602_200723.jpg


20230602_200843.jpg
 

Uncle Gump

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Are the pads worn thin? Thin pads would allow caliper more inboard.

Is the alignment (camber) good? Tire isn't tipped in at the top?

Other then that...

Don't go full lock... strictly a temporary fix.

Find the hard stop and build it up to contact sooner.

Did you have those duff arms on a D28? Did it not hit?
 

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Uncle Gump

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Lmao...

Great find. Who woulda thunk to look at any instructions.

Yes... I do get lost too.
 

mnewman

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When all else fails, read the instructions.
View attachment 93322

100% a face palm moment. Now I remember reading that. I got so caught up in everything else I was/am trying to do to this thing I forgot.

Thanks guys. I'll check it out in the morning and report the results.
 

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