Bilstein Shock Question

[09fx4guy]

Good Morning Everyone!

Apologies in advanced for the long post.

It's that time of year where it is just warm enough to start projects. I have to do some front end work and will be posting some questions as time goes by. The main one for today is regarding shocks. I have read up a bit on the bilstein 4600's and am thinking of going that route. I currently run Rancho 5000x's front and rear, and the fronts are the ones that are for extended travel / lifted trucks. I initially got these after I installed a set of #1 bars and the pre key mod in the front. I am not so worried about the rear, as I only have the 2.5" Ranger blocks and the belltech 6400 shackles with the bolt in the second to last bolt hole, not the furthest one.

The bilstein shock specs are as follows, direct from bilstein.

Thank you for contacting Bilstein.
Please find the specifications you requested for part number 24-188241 below. This B6 damper has not been tested at heights above stock.
Bilstein Collapsed Length (IN) - 13.72
Bilstein Extended Length (IN) - 17.92

The Rancho shocks are as follows (from their website)

Collapsed - 13.97
Extended - 19.25

Here is my question:

Do I need to run the extended length shocks in the front with the pre key mod and #1 bars that are cranked a little bit? Or can I get away with factory length shocks?

Thank you

 

[Blmpkn]

I'm relatively sure nothing to do with keys would require you to run a longer shock, because the total range of motion is unchanged.

If it were lifted with brackets that drop everything down then you'd need the longer shocks.

 

[sgtsandman]

Since you did the suspension mod, the easiest way to make sure you get the right length is to look for shocks listed for a 1998-2007 4X4 Ranger with no lift.

Bilstein’s specs on what fits what are otherwise difficult to figure out.

Another thing that will help is to look them up on Rock Auto’s web site. The information is easier to figure out and you can get the model/part number to look them up elsewhere, if you don’t wish to buy from Rock Auto.

Beyond that, you don’t have to worry about travel length, regardless of any key cranking. The suspension movement limitations are going to be the same.

Getting the shocks for a 1998-2007 will just make sure the shocks don’t over extend or bottom out during travel. I suspect that since nothing has changed in the over all mechanics of the suspension other than the keys, that even the later shocks would be the same but going the route I suggested will make sure there is no error incase my thinking is off base.

 

[09fx4guy]

Blmpkn- I wouldn't think it would have much effect, but I know the way the shock mounts on the control arm it would slightly increase the necessary length.

Sgtsandman- I had looked into that. According to Rockauto, the same parts for the 2007 fit the 2009. I figured that they would not bottom out, but the worst case would be that they would reach their extension limit sooner than I would like. Granted, I really don't do any off roading where I have wheels off the ground. It's mainly dirt roads or beaches. The only reason I questioned it is that when I looked into aftermarket keys, they offered shock spacers with them. I know the aftermarket's are clocked more than the factory keys, which is probably why they have them included.

 

[sgtsandman]

Blmpkn- I wouldn't think it would have much effect, but I know the way the shock mounts on the control arm it would slightly increase the necessary length.

Sgtsandman- I had looked into that. According to Rockauto, the same parts for the 2007 fit the 2009. I figured that they would not bottom out, but the worst case would be that they would reach their extension limit sooner than I would like. Granted, I really don't do any off roading where I have wheels off the ground. It's mainly dirt roads or beaches. The only reason I questioned it is that when I looked into aftermarket keys, they offered shock spacers with them. I know the aftermarket's are clocked more than the factory keys, which is probably why they have them included.

The full extension or compression shouldn't change. The amount of torque twist on the torsion bar with the new key does change but unless you changed something else, the suspension itself hasn't. The research you did confirms what I suspected on the shocks.

If you go with a longer shock, you lengthen the point where shock bottoms out but the top stopping point is now lower as well and your shock may top out before the suspension hits the bump stops and possibly blowing out the shock.

Now if you had gone with a suspension lift kit, you definitely would want a different shock. From what I'm understanding, you didn't.

From this conversation, it has helped me clear up things in my head about the keys and so forth with my 2011. The front shocks haven't changed with the key change. The rear shocks, with the taller axle blocks certainly has.

 

[gw33gp]

I run those Bilstein 4600 B6 shocks on the front with a 1.5" torsion bar crank lift. I have never had any problems with them, and I do some pretty rough off-road trips. A torsion bar lift of 2" or more will run the risk of extending the shock to its limits a lot. The problem with going to the Bilstein 5000 series shock with pretty much stock suspension is the upper control arm will start bottoming out instead of the shock stopping it.

I think having the shock limit the extended travel is preferred over letting the control arm do it. Some vehicles have bump stops on the control arm, but the Ranger does not on the upper.

 

[sgtsandman]

Ok, so that leads to the question of how much the OP raised the front since he said only a little bit.

 

[09fx4guy]

Sgtsandman- You are correct, I used all Ford parts to achieve my goal in the front. (2007 and earlier keys and #1 bars). I would say that I have lifted the front 2" from where it sat from the factory on the 2009 model. I know that Ford had lowered the truck in 2008 with the new keys, so I figure I am sitting about maybe .5-.75" higher than a 2007 and earlier truck.
As far as the rear, with the 2.5" block that would put me to stock height of a 2007 and earlier, so by adding the shackle, I only lifted the rear about .75".

GW33gp- From looking at it as it sits, it does not look like the upper control arm has ever bottomed out, there does not appear to ever have been contact. There used to be contact with the lower control arm and the bump stop when I was at the factory settings. I used to be able to see the mark of the rubber bump stop on the lower control arm. The lift actually stopped that and made the ride smoother as far as not bottoming out.

Thank you guys for your help and advise. It is nice being able to talk to people who have already done what I am planning and get real world feedback on it.

 

[sgtsandman]

Glad we could help out. Threads like this are an example where they can be a mutual benefit. It helped clear some things up for me in the process.