Automatic or manual for towing

[dirtsquirt]

standard trans, only touch the clutch at start/stoped and going into reverse. shift on rpm( 87 ) 5 speed original clutch

 

[Will]

This is from my 6-speed Fuller operators manual--found at RoadRanger.com. A synchro'd tranny has helical-cut gears and I don't believe they are meant to be meshed like the straight-cut gears in a non-synchro tranny. If Fuller says it puts the synchros at risk, I believe them. Brake pads are cheaper than clutches, but clutches are cheaper than synchros.

Driving Tips
• Always use the clutch when making upshifts or downshifts. Premature synchronizer
failure can result from not using the clutch.
• Always select an initial starting gear that provides sufficient reduction for the
load and terrain.
• Never slam or jerk the shift lever to complete gear engagements.
• Never coast with the shift lever in the neutral position.
• Never downshift at too high of a road speed.

Upshift
In the following instructions, it is assumed that the driver is familiar with operating
heavy-duty trucks and tractors, and can coordinate the shift lever movement and clutch
pedal to make smooth gear engagements while upshifting or downshifting.
1. Depress the clutch pedal, move the shift lever to next desired speed.
2. Release the clutch pedal.
3. Accelerate.
4. Continue upshifting.

Downshift
In the following instructions, it is assumed that the driver is familiar with operating
heavy-duty trucks and tractors, and can coordinate the shift lever movement and clutch
pedal to make smooth gear engagements while upshifting or downshifting.
Note: Although the transmission’s first gear is synchronized it is advised that a downshift
into first gear be completed at a very slow vehicle speed to prevent engine
overspeed.
1. Always use the clutch when downshifting from gear to gear to prevent premature
synchronizer failure.
2. Depress the clutch pedal, move the shift lever to next desired speed.
3. Release the clutch pedal.
4. Slow vehicle.
5. Continue downshifting.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

i wonder why they advise against coasting in nuetral? i do it all the time... maybe they're worried the trans. will catch a gear?

 

[rboyer]

Lately i've been forced to coast in neutral with my F250. Whenever I try to engine brake with it going down hills it doesn't shut off the injectors, so as soon as I give it gas it fires up the coil and burns all of the fuel that it dumped into the cylinders! I really need to find the time to fix the thing.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

the coils dont shut off when engine braking...if the engines loading up somehow then you have other issues.

 

[rboyer]

Actually I worded it wrong. The coil stays running, the introduction of air causes it to ignite. I think it may be a computer issue and i've been keeping my eyes open at the local junkyard for one to come in but the 5.8l/manual trans engine computer seems like a hot item.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

even with the throttle plate closed, the IAC is open to prevent a stall, so there is air and spark there at all times.

instead of wasting time by taking shots in the dark, i would verify my VSS, TPS, ECT, and tach signals are all functioning.

 

[rboyer]

Getting tach signal at the TFI, brand new TPS even double checked readings after installing. After that just didn't have time to play with it.

 

[Will]

i wonder why they advise against coasting in nuetral? i do it all the time... maybe they're worried the trans. will catch a gear?

Just the opposite.

It's aimed at big trucks. You have a synchronized tranny so it's no problem for you. You don't want a vehicle with an unsynchronized tranny coasting down a grade in neutral because it may be tough figuring out how to get it back in gear.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I prefer a stick shift for towing.

The reason the capacties are different is the same reason everyone rates everything low. Its a lawyer thing.

3500lbs on a stick shift and 5200 on a auto, those are idiot ratings, meanign any idiot can safely drive the truck with those loads and those transmissions.

Like my forklift i drive at work, a Diesel Dual wheeled toyota with a 4.8L I6 engine, Its an 11K Capacity lift, thats the idiot rating, ive picked up and safely moved 15+ with it.

later,
Dustin

 

[Ozwynn]

There are a lot of shock loads on your transmission when towing, especially when taking off from a stop.

this is simply not true. Only a shock load if you pop the clutch

i wonder why they advise against coasting in nuetral? i do it all the time... maybe they're worried the trans. will catch a gear?

once you get that beast out of gear on a grade it is difficult and does transmission damage to get it back in, if you can do it at all.........


you know Meritor built a fully synchronized 10spd for class 7&8 trucks...... it didn't last long because it was never meant to be double clutched or floated. the syncros burned out in it and it was generally thought to be an unreliable transmission. I have 2 of them in my fleet and just had both rebuilt and it is like convincing MAKG to vote for McCain to get the drivers to straight leg the clutch or to use it at all. going to replace them with eaton 13spds next month.

I have 2 eaton 10spd AMT (automated manual trans) and 1 meritor 12spd AMT. all 3 are reliable and use a wet clutch pack. Everything else I have is either 13 or 18 spd. everything I got is 450 hp or better and 1850 torque or better. I have 1 tractor chasing 2 million miles on the original clucth and fuller 18spd...... it backs a 600 hp 3406E cat. and is followed up by 3.36 gears.

I have yet to hear of an Allison 5,6, or 7 spd auto (traditional fluid driven) hit a million miles with out overhaul.


when I drove Satan's motorhome out to AZ I cruised it along at 75 mph, when i hit the grades I turned the OD off on that e4OD and let the 460 cruise up the grades at 75 mph. Didn't have 1 problem out of it. I installed a trans temp guage in the pan and it never got over 175 degrees.

moral of the story. A clutch with a good driver will last the life of the vehicle......... keep your automatic transmission cool (and change the fluid/filter like you should) and it will last the life of the vehicle.

if you do not know how to tow then you should not use either.

as far as the difference in capacities ...... it has something to do with the OD gears in the M5odR1 being pressed on the shaft and not pinned, so if you are going to tow with it then don't use 5th gear. if you going to tow with an automatic you should be not be spending alot of time in OD either. the faster you pump the fluid through the transmission the cooler the transmission runs. heat is bad in either

 

[Hahnsb2]

this is simply not true. Only a shock load if you pop the clutch

Like I said before, people are morons, car makers try to make their car's moron proof hence the lower power and tow ratings on many manual trucks over the automatics.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

So your telling me that an automatic, any automatic, lets say a E4OD, is as stout for pulling as lets say, a BW T18?

later,
Dustin

 

[Will]

Yes.

 

[therieldeal]

ok... so the manuals are rated WAY lower in towing capacity so that ford could avoid clutch replacements on warranty. thats all well and good - but what about when you are trying to tow legally... its pretty easy to clear that wimpy "limit" of the manual trans. in fact, towing my escort on a dolly is going to put me over the limit. if i get stopped, i'd be screwed. now if my truck was an auto, i'd be all set. wtf? anything you can do about that? can i put a different rear end in and have my truck inspected to increase my CGVW capacity or something?