alwaysFlOoReD's race truck

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I been doing some fixing on the way the bedsides are mounted but don't have pics, sorry. ~ 3 hours and some scrap metal.
Removed the bracing from another hood which also removed ~ 20 lbs. ~ 3 hours
I also needed to cover the top of the cage as per the rule book so I decided to use a hood that was dented. The dents were in an area that would end up being cut off so I saved a few bucks and will, hopefully, have a more stylish roof than a plain piece of metal would have provided. I removed all the bracing and the outside 1/4" from both sides and the back. I then placed the hood on the top of the cage and traced the outline and cut the hood down. After doing this I trimmed the front down to match the curve of the diameter of the bar.

I trimmed so that I would have minimal hammering before tacking;

I tacked every 3", hammered down the metal, then tacked again between those then ran ~ 3/4" welds starting in the middle of the tacks and ending on a tack.

Finished one side;

Here is where I'm at right now and plan on filling in the little holes with weld. Those holes are left from me not getting the weld to catch all of the sheet metal while running the weld puddle along the tube;

I'm sure that I'll be doing a lot better by the time I'm finished welding. I'm using my Lincoln weldpac 100 with .030 fluxcore. I started out with the lowest heat setting [d] but upped it up one [c]and moved the speed a little bit faster [from 1.5 to 1.75] and seem to be getting better results.

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've welded in metal to cover the cut edges where I removed the cab;

I used a rib from an over head door;

It happens to fit perfectly over the vertical ribs at the back of the cab.

I got some free scrap metal from Mckee Manufacturing here in Red Deer. They are great people willing to take the time to help out unknown people looking for handouts. So when I needed to have some metal bent for the doors I gave them my business. They are into manufacturing farm equipment like manure spreaders. I'm sure anyone local will have heard of them but if not I would highly recommend them.
Any way on to the pics;

Fitting the pieces;

Tacking;

and welding;

Some butt-ugly welds but I'm still learning. At least I'm getting better at not blowing holes threw the sheet metal.
Next on the list is to get the rad hooked up. The stock one is toasted so I'm installing one from a 3.8 liter Cavalier with the electric fans. It's one I have from the scrap pile.

Richard

 

[LameDuck]

Looking good Richard. Glad you are still plugging away at this truck.

Cheers.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thanks. It's been slow, lack of work and knee problems have been hindering me.

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Some more pics of the cab metal work;

It was like I had planned my cuts in advance as everything lined up so well, the back piece ends up just touching the roll bar and is at the perfect height for the cab corner and door cuts I made months ago before I had decided exactly what I was doing lol;

The rad I was going to use has a small leak so I decided to use one I had in my scrap pile, it's from a mid '80's chev with the 3.8l engine. It has dual electric fans with temperature sensor in the rad to control fan function. Some pics;

I had cut the bottom rad support out of the donor, set it on the frame, and then used some thin gauge c-channel to support it and locked it in place;

I'm using some pvc pipe along with regular rad hose to connect the outlets, they are on the opposite sides from the stock position.

I wrapped some brass wire around the end and covered that with pvc glue. Hopefully it all holds together with 100C+ degree water running threw it.

Later I want to move the rad to the back of the truck so this will be a good test. If it doesn't work I will, at least, have a guide to give to the exhaust shop so they can make me something from exhaust tubing.

On the top I cut the stock metal engine outlet and was able to piece two rad hoses together to make an almost stock looking connection....sorry, no pics of the finished hose but here are the two I used to make one;

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

A few more pics....

The hoses cut to fit, including part of the metal from the original hose engine top mount;

And put together ready to go in;

I tried taking the housing apart and turn the outlet but it must be electro-welded together. I cut the three tack welds and heated it cherry red but it didn't want to come apart, so I ended up cutting it. I ran a bead around the outlet and painted before mounting it over the new thermostat, making sure the little hole of the thermostat was to the top;

connected to the rad, I made sure that there was clearance for motor movement;

looking down on top of the new hose engine mounting point;

The bottom rad hose built with white pvc potable tube. It says 450 psi @ 23C degrees burst pressure so hopefully it stands up to over 100C at 15 psi....I guess I'll see in a little while;

and installed. I did add a support at the rad end at the 45 degree elbow after the pic was taken. I used hash marks on the tube and elbows to line up the tube while gluing. I should have done the same to the top rad hose, it would have saved a little time orienting the hose while re-assembling;

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I was telling my father-in-law about installing the rad and was telling him about the wiring. I wanted to hook up the thermostatic fan controller and I didn't know about how to hook up the wiring and he says to "K.I.S.S. ..... keep it simple stupid" so I'm going to hook up the fans to the master battery controller; the fans will be on all the time there is power to the engine.
Thanks, Al.

Richard

 

[AlaskanRider]

This truck looks awesome, very creative radiator solution. Cant wait to see this thing in action.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Its been awhile!
I finally got the frame and cage painted. I used some rust converter to get rid of the rust before painting. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get to painting quick enough two times, and so had to do the rust conversion three, yes, three times. It does work to get rid of slight rust like I had after a couple of years of no paint.
Here's some pics of after the last time of converting rust;

I did some last minute clean up of welds and added a grab handle above the middle bar at the roof. It helped stretch the metal just enough to get rid of some wrinkles left from welding the hood/roof panel to the cage;

I pulled the rear end and gas tank and any brackets that I could and also all the wiring in the cab. I roughed up any previous paint and quick sanded all the metal. I started out with a brush but that got old within two minutes. I then grabbed a hand pump pressurized spray bottle that I usually use for brakleen and used it to spray the paint. It came out too thick but I kept on, brushing out the spray as I went. I got the back half of the truck done the first day. Day two I decided it was time to dig out the old 80 gallon compressor tank and use two small compressors to feed it and then ran a line out of the big tank to a wall mounted panel. On the panel I mounted a drain valve, pressure regulator, outlet, water filter, another outlet, oil lubricator, and finally two more outlets. My father in law came out and helped with the compressor plumbing as it's not something I've got much experience in and got me going. I have a pic but will have to upload it later. Day three I got the parts I needed to get my paint gun working after not looking at it for 15 years. Luckily I was able to find the part at C.A.P.S.: Central Alberta Paint Supply in Red Deer, Ab. Its a discontinued Binks #7 clone that I picked up 20 years ago.
Any way here is the finish pics;

It didn't turn out too bad considering that I had to bypass all the panel I install the day before due to too much pressure drop through the regulator. It seems the reg. is pooched. So all the painting was done with unfiltered air on a hot, muggy day.....lots of moisture in the air. Oh well, it's not a show truck, now is it? The paint came out looking like a satin finish, which is just fine.
I'll be re-installing everything over the next few days.
Later,

Richard

 

[Andres629]

Looking good Richard!

 

[LameDuck]

Awesome. Glad to see progress again.

 

[wahlstrom1]

PVC for a rad hose on a race truck????

'shakes head....'



Take that good 'example' to an exhaust shop (had good luck with Carline Muffler on the north end) and get it made from exhaust tubing!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Andres629, LameDuck;
Thanks.

PVC for a rad hose on a race truck????

'shakes head....'



Take that good 'example' to an exhaust shop (had good luck with Carline Muffler on the north end) and get it made from exhaust tubing!

I'm always willing to try new. If it doesn't hold up, then I will do as you suggest and give the 'example' to the rad shop, so not much time wasted.
I'm having problems with over-heating [suspect the 3.8l rad] but the pvc is holding together for now. Granted I haven't had the truck balls out where the water is at the highest pressure.
Thanks for the input,

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I got the body thrown back on for whalstrom1's [andrew] visit;

Yes, I know I need to paint the body!

I had a bit of time to play with the spring set-up today.
With the 7" chevy lowering shackles on;

I wanted it lower so took off the 7" shackles and installed 3.5" generic shackles;

This was too close and I figured that I might get into spring bind. Then I decided to flip and move the shackle mount back, I used the stock back bottom hole;

And my final [so far] iteration;

I decided on the last position thinking that I should get an extra inch or two of droop and only lose an extra 1/2" of height. I lost a total of 4".

I took it for a quick romp and its hitting the bumpstops too easily. I have to re-arch the springs or go back to spring over. There is some wheel hop but not much. I don't have enough seat time to decide if it's a concern.

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I was playing around with the shackles today and found that the shackle could over extend [?term?] and the spring would "lock" in an extended position. So Bob was right on the shackle hanger. When I drooped the axle with the hanger cocked the spring could and did get locked in an extended position. If I put in a rubber or steel spacer of about 3/4" I think I could prevent that from happening again.

Richard