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chrisser
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2013
- Messages
- 106
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Cleveland OH
- Vehicle Year
- 1987
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.9
- Transmission
- Manual
Have an '87 supercab 4x4. Has an M50D I swapped in and the manual xfer case.
I have the bed off working on rust issues.
I noticed that the crossmember right under the cab is rusted away. There's also some rusted out on the carrier bearing crossmember, but that one I could probably patch.
We have some property 4 hours away and I'd like to be able to get there without having to stop for gas multiple times. With the stock tank, I can't even drive to work for a week without filling it.
So, I've been reading the forum and looking at swapping in a later model, larger, plastic tank while my bed is off and it's easy to work on.
Did some searching on the forum. Looks like I would need the tank, pump and sending unit, straps, crossmember at the front spring mounts, crossmember over the rear axle, and fuel lines from the donor truck. I read that I can use one from a supercab up to '97 with the later body style having a 20+ gallon tank. Is that essentially correct? Anything else I'll need or should get?
Also read I'd need the carrier bearing crossmember to keep my current driveshaft. 4x4 supercabs are pretty rare in my local yard. Was thinking it might be easier to find a 4x4 one-piece shaft off a later model and convert it, then I wouldn't need the carrier bearing crossmember. Am I correct in that I could just use my yoke and rear flange on the late model driveshaft to make it fit my truck and the length would be correct?
Gas tanks at my local yard are drilled and I've read that tanks aren't available from Ford or the aftermarket. Would a bolt with some heavy fender washers and some rubber washers inside and out seal that hole up well enough? Any other options for fixing the hole in a plastic tank?
Any reason later model tanks wouldn't work? 98+ tend to be far lest rusty here and it's getting so those are more plentiful in the yard than the early models.
I noticed on at least one truck at the yard (can't remember the year) it looked like Ford eliminated the crossmember under the cab. Anyone know about that? Is that crossmember also different with the larger tank? Looking at that crossmember, I don't know if I can get one out at the yard without pulling the cab. One of the rivets isn't accessible from below to drill out. I can use a battery powered drill at the yard, but grinders and torches aren't allowed. Anyone tried to get a cab off a truck in the junkyard without jacks? Can I pull the fenders, disconnect the harnesses and steering column, then unbolt the cab and tip it off?
Sorry for all the questions in one post, but they're all sort of interrelated. It's going to be a big job if I do it and I need to have all the details sorted out.
I have the bed off working on rust issues.
I noticed that the crossmember right under the cab is rusted away. There's also some rusted out on the carrier bearing crossmember, but that one I could probably patch.
We have some property 4 hours away and I'd like to be able to get there without having to stop for gas multiple times. With the stock tank, I can't even drive to work for a week without filling it.
So, I've been reading the forum and looking at swapping in a later model, larger, plastic tank while my bed is off and it's easy to work on.
Did some searching on the forum. Looks like I would need the tank, pump and sending unit, straps, crossmember at the front spring mounts, crossmember over the rear axle, and fuel lines from the donor truck. I read that I can use one from a supercab up to '97 with the later body style having a 20+ gallon tank. Is that essentially correct? Anything else I'll need or should get?
Also read I'd need the carrier bearing crossmember to keep my current driveshaft. 4x4 supercabs are pretty rare in my local yard. Was thinking it might be easier to find a 4x4 one-piece shaft off a later model and convert it, then I wouldn't need the carrier bearing crossmember. Am I correct in that I could just use my yoke and rear flange on the late model driveshaft to make it fit my truck and the length would be correct?
Gas tanks at my local yard are drilled and I've read that tanks aren't available from Ford or the aftermarket. Would a bolt with some heavy fender washers and some rubber washers inside and out seal that hole up well enough? Any other options for fixing the hole in a plastic tank?
Any reason later model tanks wouldn't work? 98+ tend to be far lest rusty here and it's getting so those are more plentiful in the yard than the early models.
I noticed on at least one truck at the yard (can't remember the year) it looked like Ford eliminated the crossmember under the cab. Anyone know about that? Is that crossmember also different with the larger tank? Looking at that crossmember, I don't know if I can get one out at the yard without pulling the cab. One of the rivets isn't accessible from below to drill out. I can use a battery powered drill at the yard, but grinders and torches aren't allowed. Anyone tried to get a cab off a truck in the junkyard without jacks? Can I pull the fenders, disconnect the harnesses and steering column, then unbolt the cab and tip it off?
Sorry for all the questions in one post, but they're all sort of interrelated. It's going to be a big job if I do it and I need to have all the details sorted out.
