99 Ranger - Cam Synchronizer Replaced and Want to Ensure it's Right

[fanugi]

Hi all,

Hope everyone's ranger is running well!

Finally replaced the camshaft synchronizer thanks to some help from some good people on this forum! The old one is definitely chirping when I spin it so that was the culprit.

I'm not the most mechanical person and it was more difficult than anticipated to even get at it due to where it sits in the engine bay and everything around it. The point is that I want to be pleased that it's replaced but I'm not entirely sure it's buttoned up the way it needs to be.

While I'm fairly certain the "lip" and the cam synchro itself are positioned correctly at the moment, It was rotating left and right when I was securing/screwing the sensor on top of it.

Could this be because the mounting bracket isn't screwed down tightly enough? I didn't notice that the washer wasn't flush with the metal around the base of where the synchro sits when I unscrewed it initially but it's sitting at an angle for sure now. That surprised me. Is it even supposed to sit at an angle like that to hold the synchronizer down at the lip? That seems wonky to me. Does the torque of that bracket stop the synchro from rotating?

I don't want the synchronizer moving from the position it's supposed to be in and I want to make sure the screw/washer are secure enough and set correctly. Right now, both the mounting bracket and the sensor screws are tight to the point that I would have had to really put some force on the ratchet to tighten further and I didn't want to make them too tight. I know there is a recommended torque but I don't have the tools for that or even know how to do that at this point, quite frankly.

Also, how do I know for sure that the synchro is in place correctly and working? The chirping is gone and I'm 99% sure that both the lip and synchro are positioned as they were with the old one (even with the sensor sliding the synchro left and right the way it was as I set it back to where it was supposed to be). I took a drive after installing it at around 50mph for twenty minutes and carefully listened and watched the oil and temp gauges.

I never did have a code when the old one was chirping but would a code be triggered if the new synchro wasn't positioned correctly? I'm guessing the check engine light would come on? Would the truck not even run? It almost seems too good to be true that it's working right now! I'm just not sure what to look for, exactly. Without any way to be sure it's correct, I'm anxious driving it knowing that a bad cam synchro can cause the engine to seize.

Any insight would be sincerely appreciated. I want to tighten the screws down more if they need to be and want to ensure that it's working properly.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[pjtoledo]

the hole for the hold down bolt is at an angle.
the big washer contacts a nub on the block and the ring on the sync unit.
so the washer also sits at an angle, with a big gap.


kindly ignore the custom low tension valve springs.
they are actually parts from a copier fuser, slightly modified.

can you post a picture of the drive gear on your old sync unit?
that gear failing is what causes the oil pressure failure.

for the timing aspect, as long as the center vane is lined up with the window in the housing at #1 TDC on the compression stroke it's good.
the sync unit is only used to tell the computer if cylinder #1 is on a compression, or exhaust stroke.
the actual ignition timing is handled by the crankshaft timing sprocket.

 

[RonD]

After startup you will get a CEL(check engine light) and a code regarding Crank sensor and Cam sensor not being "in time"
If you don't get that then all is well

The Cam sensor has no direct control of spark(like a distributor) or injectors, it just sends a more accurate (1/2 speed) timing signal to the computer
So the computer can/will sync Cam sensor to Crank sensor electronically if you have set it within a few degrees of correct TDC
Computer will then adjust Cam sensor timing for best power and MPG

 

[fanugi]

the hole for the hold down bolt is at an angle.
the big washer contacts a nub on the block and the ring on the sync unit.
so the washer also sits at an angle, with a big gap.


kindly ignore the custom low tension valve springs.
they are actually parts from a copier fuser, slightly modified.

can you post a picture of the drive gear on your old sync unit?
that gear failing is what causes the oil pressure failure.

for the timing aspect, as long as the center vane is lined up with the window in the housing at #1 TDC on the compression stroke it's good.
the sync unit is only used to tell the computer if cylinder #1 is on a compression, or exhaust stroke.
the actual ignition timing is handled by the crankshaft timing sprocket.

Thanks so much for your informative reply and the pictures. Having some technical issues today so I can't
send a pic but the gear is in good shape (I just looked at it). No chips/dings or much visible wear (or grime) at all. It does chirp when you spin the shaft though. I guess this means that it was on its way out but not dangerously so?

It's really helpful to know that the mounting bracket should sit at an angle. I'll check to make sure that
It's as tight as can be without forcing it with the ratchet and that the shaft itself doesn't spin. Do you have any thoughts about how tight the bracket screw should be without a way to torque it?

I do think it's lined up correctly as both the synchro and the tab are exactly where they were with the old one.

 

[fanugi]

After startup you will get a CEL(check engine light) and a code regarding Crank sensor and Cam sensor not being "in time"
If you don't get that then all is well

The Cam sensor has no direct control of spark(like a distributor) or injectors, it just sends a more accurate (1/2 speed) timing signal to the computer
So the computer can/will sync Cam sensor to Crank sensor electronically if you have set it within a few degrees of correct TDC
Computer will then adjust Cam sensor timing for best power and MPG

Thanks for your reply as well! Not sure what I would do without this forum!

No codes so I think I'm good. Will a code always cause the check engine light to come on?

This is really helpful for me to understand how the components work together.

 

[pjtoledo]

I would describe the torque for the hold down bolt as a moderate pull on an 8" wrench or 3/8 drive ratchet.
spec is 18 lbs/ft.