- Joined
- Apr 24, 2011
- Messages
- 167
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 16
- Location
- California
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Make / Model
- Mazda
- Engine Size
- 2.3l is out! 4.0l is in!!!
- Transmission
- Manual
I did something like that and everything checked out.cheap and dirty way to test injectors.
do this outside, with plenty of ventilation!!!!!
remove injector.
obtain constant supply of air, about 65 psi. will need a shutoff valve in the exit line.
using whatever fittings are necessary attach the air hose to the injector, a quick coupler works great.
keep injector upright, pour some gas ,or something safer like rubbing alcohol, into the injector, attach air line and pressurize.
watch for leaks.
hit the connector with very short bursts of 12 volts to spray the gas out.
helpful hint: make the sparks at the remote power source, not at the injector.
keep the air line positioned so the gas won't run downhill back into the hose.
if you use gas, the spray will be very flammable, no "hey Joe, hold my beer" stunts, OK?
So after testing the injectors, they ohm out between 16.0-.2 across the board, checked for leaks and clogs. They seem fine to me. I was messing with the plug wires on the coil pack and i pulled wire 4 from the pack and then 6, went to pull 5 and it jumped the arc to my finger, but didn't shock me. The spark was orange/light orange.
It starts no problem on cold start, but doesn't start after. So this is what i think. After the cold start, I shut it off and try to start it again but with the weak spark i'm not getting full detonation when trying to start it again and i'm just dumping fuel into the cylinders and compressing it past the rings, which would explain the fuel in the oil and no restart. So I ordered a new coil pack and it will be here Thursday.
Does this sound like it could possibly be my issue? Or am I just losing it trying to find this problem?
As for the high idle issue, I'll tackle that once i figure out the run issue.