MAKG
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2007
- Messages
- 4,634
- Reaction score
- 19
- Points
- 0
- Location
- California central coast
- Vehicle Year
- 1991
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 4.0L
- Transmission
- Manual
OK, got this all apart and partly back together.
The cross-pin bolt looked EXACTLY like Evan's picture. It broke right at the last thread, apparently many years ago (the broken part was not at all fresh steel, and the bolt felt normal coming out, not like it was twisting off). The Fabbri Associates kit took it right out, with the exception that the drill bit is a little too long and the rear stabilizer bar had to come out to accomodate that. It may be far less of an issue on a spring-over axle.
The axle bearings looked good -- the axle shafts are less than perfect (some dull discoloration -- not the bright shiny polish I'd like to see), but don't appear to be pitted at all. The companion flange was not floppy BUT the nut wasn't nearly as tight as it should have been (no more than 40 ft-lbs to remove) and the pinion just fell out of the diff. No press fit onto the front bearing. The bearings LOOKED good, but I think the front bearing has been spinning due to the loose fit. I opted to replace it ($15 for Timken). The new bearing had a nice interference fit; it could be felt pressing in as the nut was tightened.
Questions:
1. I had an unbalanced driveshaft; it has since (and recently) been balanced. That did not make the noise go away, but it did take away most of the shake that had accompanied it. The noise now sounds more like a speed-dependent rubbing sound than a grumbling (I think I was hearing the driveshaft shake). There was SOME shaking still, but much less. Does the front pinion bearing sound plausible for this?
2. I had an extra piece at the end of the day (this does NOT happen often). It's the thin spacer between the companion flange and the bearing. I suspect I know the answer, but I can hope anyway -- do I need to pull the flange and seal off or can I put this thing in the small parts box for the gear swap I'll eventually do (it will be some time)? What purpose does it serve? Oiling? The space was taken up by the crush washer.
3. I had one new bearing and one old bearing. Which preload spec should I use? I opted to the low side of the new spec. It's set at 20 inch lbs rotating now. Is this too tight?
Thanks a bunch, guys.
PS: you guys may enjoy this. My son just told my wife that he pees gear oil (it's synthetic Mobil 1 and it still looked rather yellow).
The cross-pin bolt looked EXACTLY like Evan's picture. It broke right at the last thread, apparently many years ago (the broken part was not at all fresh steel, and the bolt felt normal coming out, not like it was twisting off). The Fabbri Associates kit took it right out, with the exception that the drill bit is a little too long and the rear stabilizer bar had to come out to accomodate that. It may be far less of an issue on a spring-over axle.
The axle bearings looked good -- the axle shafts are less than perfect (some dull discoloration -- not the bright shiny polish I'd like to see), but don't appear to be pitted at all. The companion flange was not floppy BUT the nut wasn't nearly as tight as it should have been (no more than 40 ft-lbs to remove) and the pinion just fell out of the diff. No press fit onto the front bearing. The bearings LOOKED good, but I think the front bearing has been spinning due to the loose fit. I opted to replace it ($15 for Timken). The new bearing had a nice interference fit; it could be felt pressing in as the nut was tightened.
Questions:
1. I had an unbalanced driveshaft; it has since (and recently) been balanced. That did not make the noise go away, but it did take away most of the shake that had accompanied it. The noise now sounds more like a speed-dependent rubbing sound than a grumbling (I think I was hearing the driveshaft shake). There was SOME shaking still, but much less. Does the front pinion bearing sound plausible for this?
2. I had an extra piece at the end of the day (this does NOT happen often). It's the thin spacer between the companion flange and the bearing. I suspect I know the answer, but I can hope anyway -- do I need to pull the flange and seal off or can I put this thing in the small parts box for the gear swap I'll eventually do (it will be some time)? What purpose does it serve? Oiling? The space was taken up by the crush washer.
3. I had one new bearing and one old bearing. Which preload spec should I use? I opted to the low side of the new spec. It's set at 20 inch lbs rotating now. Is this too tight?
Thanks a bunch, guys.
PS: you guys may enjoy this. My son just told my wife that he pees gear oil (it's synthetic Mobil 1 and it still looked rather yellow).
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