3.0 custom build. need ideas.

[RideFord94]

So i just finished tearing down my original 3.0 that had a mysterious valve problem. I have a fairly reliable motor in my dd now so I want more power in the years to come. I have a 190,000 mile set of heads and a block to do whatever I want with as long as they don't have any cracking. A professional port and polish and mild street cam is going to be in the picture along with supporting mods (valvesprings, valve seats...what else? Custom valves?) Anybody ever dealt with a custom (not Morana stroker) bottom end setup? compression ratio increases? I plan on doing a ton of research in addition to what I've already learned. I may pay for better materials seeing as I have a yearn for boost...

Any suggestions?

 

[stmitch]

Porting the heads and intakes is basically a must. A big problem I noticed when working on my heads, was that the valves are pretty shrouded in the combustion chamber. Doing some work to De-shroud the valves will help things breathe, but it will also decrease your compression ratio. Larger valves would be nice, but there's not a lot of room to go bigger. Maybe a mm on each valve. That's going to make the shrouding problem worse too. For the combustion chambers, I'd just focus on getting them as smooth as possible. The 3.0 loves to ping, and if you can eliminate roughness in the chamber, it will reduce the likelihood of pinging a bunch.

I have no experience with any custom bottom end parts. If you're planning on boosting, it seems like the rod bolts like to give out between 17-20 psi, so I'd definitely look for rods with larger, stronger rod bolts. Balancing the rotating assembly is money well spent.

 

[RideFord94]

Porting the heads and intakes is basically a must. A big problem I noticed when working on my heads, was that the valves are pretty shrouded in the combustion chamber. Doing some work to De-shroud the valves will help things breathe, but it will also decrease your compression ratio. Larger valves would be nice, but there's not a lot of room to go bigger. Maybe a mm on each valve. That's going to make the shrouding problem worse too. For the combustion chambers, I'd just focus on getting them as smooth as possible. The 3.0 loves to ping, and if you can eliminate roughness in the chamber, it will reduce the likelihood of pinging a bunch.

I have no experience with any custom bottom end parts. If you're planning on boosting, it seems like the rod bolts like to give out between 17-20 psi, so I'd definitely look for rods with larger, stronger rod bolts. Balancing the rotating assembly is money well spent.

Yea I pretty much have it all planned out. Thanks for the info on porting. I might just have to go with a stroker kit and be happy lol. Any tips on raising compression? I thought about taking some material off the deck of the block? Any ideas?

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[JP02XLT]

You dont want to raise compression if your thinking about adding boost

JP02XLT

 

[stmitch]

Seems to me like shaving the heads down would require fewer changes than shaving the deck of the engine block. Either way, if you go more than a few thousandths, it can affect your valve train geometry. You'd have to do custom length pushrods or something to make everything fit like it should.

Also, there's tons of clearance between the pistons and valves. I had over .25 inches of clearance with my 1.8 roller rockers. You should be able to increase valve lift until the cows come home as long as you have valve springs that can keep up.

I wouldn't worry to much about a stroker kit unless it's just something you have to have. Boost will get you better numbers for less money than a crazy, custom NA build, and it would be more streetable too. Just my 2 cents. Like JP said, if boost is in the plans, no reason to raise the compression.