Tally99
New Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2021
- Messages
- 22
- Reaction score
- 8
- Points
- 3
- Location
- Minnesota
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Transmission
- Automatic
Hello all,
I had to leave my 2000 ranger with the 3.0 sitting for about 3 months due to work. Since doing that, she does not want to start. I initially thought it was a battery issue, since I've had battery problems in the past, but even with a new battery, she cranks without starting. I bought a spark plug test light, and I know I've got spark. She started once or twice after putting a new battery in, but the engine died after I shifted into gear (I installed a new idle air control valve to try to sort out a rough idle, and it's the kind you can tune. I started her up, drove around for a while, shut it off cause it was idling way too high, tuned it down, then started her up again to try to get things running better), and it will not start again. As mentioned above, it definitely cranks, and it definitely gets spark. On top of that, I pushed in the fuel rail Schrader valve with a key, and got a little squirt of gasoline, and I hear the fuel pump kick on every time I turn the key to 'run' before starting.
Since I have spark, and I know I have air and correct timing as well since it has started previously, this makes me think it's a fuel problem. I haven't hooked up a pressure tester to the test valve, but I plan on trying to borrow one to do so. Any idea what pressure I should have at the rail? It's a flex fuel 3.0, if that makes a difference.
Assuming I have good fuel pressure, are there any easy ways to test the injectors? If I've gotta pull the intake manifold, I figure I might as well replace them due to age/mileage/not getting very good power or gas mileage before this started happening.
Is there anything else I should check?
I had to leave my 2000 ranger with the 3.0 sitting for about 3 months due to work. Since doing that, she does not want to start. I initially thought it was a battery issue, since I've had battery problems in the past, but even with a new battery, she cranks without starting. I bought a spark plug test light, and I know I've got spark. She started once or twice after putting a new battery in, but the engine died after I shifted into gear (I installed a new idle air control valve to try to sort out a rough idle, and it's the kind you can tune. I started her up, drove around for a while, shut it off cause it was idling way too high, tuned it down, then started her up again to try to get things running better), and it will not start again. As mentioned above, it definitely cranks, and it definitely gets spark. On top of that, I pushed in the fuel rail Schrader valve with a key, and got a little squirt of gasoline, and I hear the fuel pump kick on every time I turn the key to 'run' before starting.
Since I have spark, and I know I have air and correct timing as well since it has started previously, this makes me think it's a fuel problem. I haven't hooked up a pressure tester to the test valve, but I plan on trying to borrow one to do so. Any idea what pressure I should have at the rail? It's a flex fuel 3.0, if that makes a difference.
Assuming I have good fuel pressure, are there any easy ways to test the injectors? If I've gotta pull the intake manifold, I figure I might as well replace them due to age/mileage/not getting very good power or gas mileage before this started happening.
Is there anything else I should check?