2004 cranks, wiil not start? Timing chain slip?

[RonD]

I can hear it but just too dark.

Sounds like engine cranking but no spark, if fuel was added manually.
And no back firing which would indicate spark but at the wrong time.

 

[modelageek]

I can hear it but just too dark.

Sounds like engine cranking but no spark, if fuel was added manually.
And no back firing which would indicate spark but at the wrong time.

took the video at 5:00 am. I didn't think seeing it mattered. I was just trying to get the sound.

When I turkey bastered the gas into the TB I squirted some in and then put the tube back over it and went and tried to start it. I got nothing. I will try it again.

When I put the spark tester on the wires it did flash but it was not a very bright light.

 

[RonD]

Check for 12volts(battery voltage) at the coil pack, key needs to be on.
There are 4 wires on the connector, red one(usually) is the "power wire", other 3 are computer Grounds.

Corroded connector or wire can lower voltage, a coil is a voltage multiplier, so whatever it starts with it multiples, if voltage is low then spark will be low.

 

[modelageek]

Check for 12volts(battery voltage) at the coil pack, key needs to be on.
There are 4 wires on the connector, red one(usually) is the "power wire", other 3 are computer Grounds.

Corroded connector or wire can lower voltage, a coil is a voltage multiplier, so whatever it starts with it multiples, if voltage is low then spark will be low.

OK I bought some fresh gas and a new can of starter fluid. Twice I sprayed for about 7 seconds into the TB with starter fluid. I got nothing each time. I also turkey basted about 1/4 cup of gas into the TB and got nothing. each time I put the intake hose back on and then tried to start it.

I pulled the connector of the CP. the terminal closest to the drivers side is the power. I got 12.33. At battery I got 12.55.

 

[modelageek]

I pulled the coilpack off and tested it. the resistance between each pair was just over 13k. the resistance at the terminal if i did it right was .7, .8 and .7.

 

[modelageek]

I checked and both cams turn. Are these inference engines? if they are and the chain slipped I should have a bent valve? right? doesn't sound like a bent valve? I have no codes. if the chain slipped shouldn't it throw a code just from the cranking? Should I be getting something when I spray starter fluid into the TB. If I had low compression would that keep from getting at least a backfire at of the TB? Just thoughts I am pondering!

 

[RonD]

Starting fluid is ether, it would ignite with out much compression, gasoline won't, it needs at least 100psi.

Ford 4.0l SOHC(2001 and up) is an interference engine
Ford 4.0l OHV(1990-2000) is non-interference

Your coil pack ohms out correctly and it has correct voltage so problem is either Computer(PCM) or wiring from computer to coil pack.

The fact you get any spark means CKP sensor is working.

The 3 coil pack wires run to the PCM, the ICM(ignition control module) is in the PCM on an '04.
Coil packs work the same as the old distributor setups with points did.
Coil gets 12volts when key is on, then to spark the coil it is grounded and then ground is cut, this cutting of the ground sends out a spark, points grounded(closed) and cut the ground(opened) to the coil.
On electronic ignitions transistors(switches) are used instead of points.

The PCM uses an external ground to charge up(ground) each of the 3 coils.
The PCM has several grounds that are not shared internally, so it could just be a bad ground wire for the ICM.

Can't remember when Ford moved the Ranger PCM to the upper firewall(near the center) but there was a problem with the connector getting moisture inside, they added a cover on later years.
Maybe your PCM connector has some corrosion inside.

I would rent or borrow a compression gauge, just to take compression off the table.

The big three, spark, fuel and compression are it as far as a no start.
You gave it fuel and no luck
So all that is left is spark and compression, compression is easiest to check and is a black or white result, you need average 150psi, all spark plugs removed and assuming battery is turning engine over at a good speed.
4.0l SOHC should run at about 170psi though.

I think people sometimes get caught up in the electronics on newer engines and skip over the basics.
Spark, fuel, compression.

For a sensor or computer to cause a no start it has to effect either spark or fuel, it can't effect compression.
fuel is easy to test, dump some in and crank, lol.
compression is also easy to check, and either you got some or you don't
spark is where the electronics can require volt and ohm meters

 

[modelageek]

OK I found 20 minute window to test compression on a few cylinders. My tester is OK. think I got to work properly. I tested 2 cylinders (dry)

#1= 0
#2= 60 and then it kept going down on the 4th test it was 30. I tested this cylinder first. it made me think if my tester was funky.

 

[modelageek]

I started looking on CL for a motor. The good news is that the rest of the truck looks great. minimal rust if any(around here that is unusual). No dents. tranny was flushed at 109k, tuneup at 126k and new front pads at 126k. Tires are at about half life. Rear hangers and shackles were replaced with Ford parts.

Anyone know what year 4.0's will fit? Do I need a 4.0 from a 4wd vehicle?

 

[adsm08]

With those compression numbers you should have been able to hear it turning over and sounding all wrong.

But yeah, time for an engine.


As far as eligible donors, you can take literally any 4.0 SOHC you can find. 2001+ Ranger, 98-2011 Explorer, 2004-20012 Mustang.

 

[modelageek]

With those compression numbers you should have been able to hear it turning over and sounding all wrong.

But yeah, time for an engine.


As far as eligible donors, you can take literally any 4.0 SOHC you can find. 2001+ Ranger, 98-2011 Explorer, 2004-20012 Mustang.

I was rushing when I tested the 2 cylinders . I wonder if my tester is fubared. I will pull the plug on the 0 compression cylinder and put my finger over it. Maybe get another tester, but it does seem like she is toast. Thanks for the help from everyone!

do I need to get the engine from a 4wd? Is there a 4th chain for the 4wd drive vehicles?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[adsm08]

No, 2wd, 4x4, 8x6, dually, SRW, blue, black, yellow, hard bed cover, broken horn, doesn't matter one bit, as long as it is a 4.0 SOHC.

Some of them have a 4th chain and a balance shaft to make them seem smoother, but it's worthless, doesn't do a thing to the way it runs, and doesn't matter as far as the swap.

 

[RonD]

I read some where that the balancer shaft was added to the 4.0l SOHC on the "live axle" rangers to counter the front axle spin.

Yes, I agree with adsm08, I would think you would hear a real difference when cranking engine with low numbers like that.
Since your spark plugs are out crank the engine and see what it sounds like, that's the sound on low/no compression
Crank should spin like a top

FYI, compression test must be done with all spark plugs removed or the numbers will be almost useless, almost.
And throttle should be propped open, put something on gas pedal.
I don't personally think engine needs to be warm, some do.

 

[modelageek]

I pulled the #1 plug again and stuck my finger over the hole. there was no air pressure/compression, just gas. Dumb question here but, there should be a pretty good amount of pressure coming out of the hole right?


The video I posted of the truck turning over doesn't seem to correlate with zero compression? kind of strange?

 

[RonD]

yes, that is odd, the engine should spin much faster with no compression resistance