Soledad
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2016
- Messages
- 90
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 2003
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.3L Duratec
- Transmission
- Manual
Ok, this thing is driving me absolutely nuts. It's a 2003 XL 2.3L 2wd 5spd manual trans. Truck is all stock.
I bought this truck about a month or so ago. On it's first maiden voyage coming back from the dump the degas bottle sprung a leak and the radiator end cap blew a seal. I also found out the cooling system had the wrong coolant in it (green stuff). So, I replaced the degas bottle and cap with new Motorcraft parts. Napa didn't have a manual trans radiator so I went with the auto trans radiator. I flushed out the system with a garden hose (didn't use any cleaning stuff though) for about 10 minutes and then flushed with 6-7 gallons of distilled water then through in Zerex G-05 (Ford Gold equivalent). Then put the new parts in. Once I got all that done I called it good.
Next trip out I start monitoring the coolant temps with FORScan. I notice ECT is running 228* and CHT is running 245* pretty solidly. I start smelling coolant and get it home. Come to find out, someone had an issue with the plastic "T" just above the starter and cut it out of the overflow hose and put in their own. One of the screw clamps had loosened up so I tightened it and that solved that leak.
So now I start going over everything. I feel the bottom radiator hose and it's cold, but the top radiator hose is hot. Thinking I have a stuck thermostat I order up all new parts (new Motorcraft thermostat, new Hitachi water pump, new Hayden fan clutch and new radiator hoses) because the truck has 130,000+ miles on it. I replace all of those, burp it and take it out for another spin. This time though, FORScan is saying the ECT is 228*-240* and CHT is 250-275* and the bottom radiator hose is STILL cold. The idiot gauge in the dash runs anywhere from the high side of the middle to 3/4 of the way to hot. Thinking I may still have air in the system, I burp the cooling system according to the Ford procedure. It made no difference.
And what's odd is that when the truck is cold it has normal power. But, after a 30 mile trip the truck has lost a lot of power. It won't even hold 45 mph in 3rd gear on a small hill.
The oil is clean and not milky, there is no oil in the coolant and there is no white smoke from the exhaust. It's also not puking coolant. But, I've ordered up a cooling system pressure tester kit which should be here next week just to make absolutely sure the system is sealed tight.
I've even tried running with the A/C at max and the heater at max and neither make any difference in the coolant temps.
At this point I'm dumbfounded. I don't know if these temps are normal and I don't know if a cold bottom radiator hose is normal for these 2001-2003 Duratec engines. A cold bottom radiator hose on any other car would tell me there's a radiator blockage (or on this engine, the thermostat isn't opening).
So a few questions:
1. What temps is everyone seeing for those who actively monitor coolant temps?
2. Is a cool to tepid temp bottom radiator hose normal for these engines?
3. Are these engines known for cooling system blockages, air or crud?
I REALLY don't want to have to drain the system again and pull and test the thermostat. It's a such a pain in the rear.
TLDR; Truck "seems" to be running hot after replacing degas bottle and cap, radiator, fan clutch, water pump, both radiator hoses and thermostat. Top radiator hose is hot and bottom radiator hose is cold. Is that normal? ECT ranges between 228*-240* and CHT ranges between 250*-275*. Are those temps normal? No coolant in the oil. No oil in the coolant. No white cloud from the exhaust. Degas is not puking. Truck loses power the hotter it gets.
I bought this truck about a month or so ago. On it's first maiden voyage coming back from the dump the degas bottle sprung a leak and the radiator end cap blew a seal. I also found out the cooling system had the wrong coolant in it (green stuff). So, I replaced the degas bottle and cap with new Motorcraft parts. Napa didn't have a manual trans radiator so I went with the auto trans radiator. I flushed out the system with a garden hose (didn't use any cleaning stuff though) for about 10 minutes and then flushed with 6-7 gallons of distilled water then through in Zerex G-05 (Ford Gold equivalent). Then put the new parts in. Once I got all that done I called it good.
Next trip out I start monitoring the coolant temps with FORScan. I notice ECT is running 228* and CHT is running 245* pretty solidly. I start smelling coolant and get it home. Come to find out, someone had an issue with the plastic "T" just above the starter and cut it out of the overflow hose and put in their own. One of the screw clamps had loosened up so I tightened it and that solved that leak.
So now I start going over everything. I feel the bottom radiator hose and it's cold, but the top radiator hose is hot. Thinking I have a stuck thermostat I order up all new parts (new Motorcraft thermostat, new Hitachi water pump, new Hayden fan clutch and new radiator hoses) because the truck has 130,000+ miles on it. I replace all of those, burp it and take it out for another spin. This time though, FORScan is saying the ECT is 228*-240* and CHT is 250-275* and the bottom radiator hose is STILL cold. The idiot gauge in the dash runs anywhere from the high side of the middle to 3/4 of the way to hot. Thinking I may still have air in the system, I burp the cooling system according to the Ford procedure. It made no difference.
And what's odd is that when the truck is cold it has normal power. But, after a 30 mile trip the truck has lost a lot of power. It won't even hold 45 mph in 3rd gear on a small hill.
The oil is clean and not milky, there is no oil in the coolant and there is no white smoke from the exhaust. It's also not puking coolant. But, I've ordered up a cooling system pressure tester kit which should be here next week just to make absolutely sure the system is sealed tight.
I've even tried running with the A/C at max and the heater at max and neither make any difference in the coolant temps.
At this point I'm dumbfounded. I don't know if these temps are normal and I don't know if a cold bottom radiator hose is normal for these 2001-2003 Duratec engines. A cold bottom radiator hose on any other car would tell me there's a radiator blockage (or on this engine, the thermostat isn't opening).
So a few questions:
1. What temps is everyone seeing for those who actively monitor coolant temps?
2. Is a cool to tepid temp bottom radiator hose normal for these engines?
3. Are these engines known for cooling system blockages, air or crud?
I REALLY don't want to have to drain the system again and pull and test the thermostat. It's a such a pain in the rear.
TLDR; Truck "seems" to be running hot after replacing degas bottle and cap, radiator, fan clutch, water pump, both radiator hoses and thermostat. Top radiator hose is hot and bottom radiator hose is cold. Is that normal? ECT ranges between 228*-240* and CHT ranges between 250*-275*. Are those temps normal? No coolant in the oil. No oil in the coolant. No white cloud from the exhaust. Degas is not puking. Truck loses power the hotter it gets.
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