rogerranger2122
Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2016
- Messages
- 47
- Reaction score
- 5
- Points
- 8
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Make / Model
- Ranger
- Transmission
- Automatic
I have codes p0153 p0133 and I just want to drive this F truck into a lake and report it stolen.
Well, ok seriously.
I have a 2000 ranger with 70K miles. 4.0 Litre 6 cylinder automatic.
I know there are hundreds of threads about these codes but hopefully I can give clues as to what needs to be done before throwing money at parts and wasting time. This truck is a complete disgrace of rust underneath it, often requiring 5 hours of work to get one bolt off because the head chips off as rust flakes and needs grinding into a square and blowtorching etc...
I don't remember if I bought it with the check engine light on or off but it's been on for a couple years since I've had the truck and my inspection was due 2 months ago. I thought my harbor freight code reader could just delete the codes and then I'll pass inspection but it's not possible to trick their computer like that.
I originally had codes:
P1451 Evap Emessions Ctrl system vent Ctrl Cir
P0133 02 sensor Circuit Slow response bank 1 sensor 1
P0153 02 sensor circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 1
P0171 system too lean bank 1
P0174 System too lean bank 2
And no Pending codes.
My plan was to bring it to a shop and have them charge me their $89 an hour for just 1 hour to show me what needs to be done and then I'd go on youtube and figure out how to do the work myself. The mechanic had me sitting 2 hours after our set appointment and said come back another time, sorry too busy. So I went online to try and fix this myself.
For the System Too Lean codes: I cleaned my MAF sensor with electronics cleaner and neither of those lean codes have come back and it's been driven about 20 hours over a couple weeks and the codes have been reset many times since then but no Lean codes have come back. Also, the p0153 p0133 were gone after cleaning the MAF sensor. The only code left was the Evap P1451.
I replaced my rusted fuel filler neck in hopes to fix Evap P1451 but just doing that didn't stop the code from coming back. Also about 10 days later and plenty of driving, the code P0133 came back and pending was P0153.
Yesterday, I replaced the Vapor canister solenoid on the charcoal canister (had a dead reading on a multimeter), and the evap code has not come back. I cleared codes and drove about 30 mins and turned engine on and off and drove etc and all codes were gone! usually they would have come back by then. So I took it today to the inspection station and failed because System Not Ready (because I cleared the codes too recently apparently. The check engine light was still off as I was leaving and then 20 mins later my eyes pop out of my head because the light comes back on and I have p0153 p0133 back on the scanner.
So, Do I just replace the upstream 02 sensors? I'm very tempted to just buy these for $20 on ebay. Worst case scenario is if I can prove they are faulty I can get a refund. The wiring looks fine.
I read it could also be and exhaust or exhaust manifold leak or vacuum leak. Or need a tune, whatever tune is, Tune up? New spark plugs?
I did inspect the whole line from the cat to the tail pipe and didn't see any leaks but I didn't check fully yetl, and also I saw a video on youtube he plugs the tail pipe with a rag and this will make an exhaust leak more apparent if there is one.
I really don't want to take the exhaust manifold apart and all the gaskets etc and inspect for leaks if there even are any. Just replacing the two 02 sensors I am thinking to try first but even that will be a nightmare I'm sure they're rusted on so bad, and the location is difficult to get to.
I only noticed this in winter/cold, when I would come to my first stop light about 5 mins from home, it would have a bad idle and every now and then it would actually stall, so maybe this is a symptom of what needs to be addressed (if it wasn't the MAF sensor leanness that I just fixed though). Other than that, it feels like it drives brand new. I can't tell if my gas mileage is good or bad - some people mention that in hopes to diagnose for these codes.
Any help greatly appreciated.
From a website:
P0153
•Check and fix any exhaust leaks
•Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
•Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
•Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
•Check for inlet air leaks
•Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
•Replace the Bank 2 oxygen sensor upstream of the catalytic converter
What causes the P0133 code?
•A faulty O2 Sensor
•A leaking exhaust manifold
•An engine vacuum leak
•An open or short in the wiring of the O2 sensor
•Soot or oil buildup on the O2 sensor (excessive buildup will clog the ports the sensor uses to measure the air fuel ratio)
•A dirty mass air flow sensor
•Incorrect fuel pressure
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0133-obd-ii-trouble-code-o2-sensor-circuit-slow-response-bank-1-sensor-1-by-blake-griffin
I have this reader in case it can diagnose further with live data?
http://www.harborfreight.com/obd-ii-can-professional-scan-tool-60694.html
Well, ok seriously.
I have a 2000 ranger with 70K miles. 4.0 Litre 6 cylinder automatic.
I know there are hundreds of threads about these codes but hopefully I can give clues as to what needs to be done before throwing money at parts and wasting time. This truck is a complete disgrace of rust underneath it, often requiring 5 hours of work to get one bolt off because the head chips off as rust flakes and needs grinding into a square and blowtorching etc...
I don't remember if I bought it with the check engine light on or off but it's been on for a couple years since I've had the truck and my inspection was due 2 months ago. I thought my harbor freight code reader could just delete the codes and then I'll pass inspection but it's not possible to trick their computer like that.
I originally had codes:
P1451 Evap Emessions Ctrl system vent Ctrl Cir
P0133 02 sensor Circuit Slow response bank 1 sensor 1
P0153 02 sensor circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 1
P0171 system too lean bank 1
P0174 System too lean bank 2
And no Pending codes.
My plan was to bring it to a shop and have them charge me their $89 an hour for just 1 hour to show me what needs to be done and then I'd go on youtube and figure out how to do the work myself. The mechanic had me sitting 2 hours after our set appointment and said come back another time, sorry too busy. So I went online to try and fix this myself.
For the System Too Lean codes: I cleaned my MAF sensor with electronics cleaner and neither of those lean codes have come back and it's been driven about 20 hours over a couple weeks and the codes have been reset many times since then but no Lean codes have come back. Also, the p0153 p0133 were gone after cleaning the MAF sensor. The only code left was the Evap P1451.
I replaced my rusted fuel filler neck in hopes to fix Evap P1451 but just doing that didn't stop the code from coming back. Also about 10 days later and plenty of driving, the code P0133 came back and pending was P0153.
Yesterday, I replaced the Vapor canister solenoid on the charcoal canister (had a dead reading on a multimeter), and the evap code has not come back. I cleared codes and drove about 30 mins and turned engine on and off and drove etc and all codes were gone! usually they would have come back by then. So I took it today to the inspection station and failed because System Not Ready (because I cleared the codes too recently apparently. The check engine light was still off as I was leaving and then 20 mins later my eyes pop out of my head because the light comes back on and I have p0153 p0133 back on the scanner.
So, Do I just replace the upstream 02 sensors? I'm very tempted to just buy these for $20 on ebay. Worst case scenario is if I can prove they are faulty I can get a refund. The wiring looks fine.
I read it could also be and exhaust or exhaust manifold leak or vacuum leak. Or need a tune, whatever tune is, Tune up? New spark plugs?
I did inspect the whole line from the cat to the tail pipe and didn't see any leaks but I didn't check fully yetl, and also I saw a video on youtube he plugs the tail pipe with a rag and this will make an exhaust leak more apparent if there is one.
I really don't want to take the exhaust manifold apart and all the gaskets etc and inspect for leaks if there even are any. Just replacing the two 02 sensors I am thinking to try first but even that will be a nightmare I'm sure they're rusted on so bad, and the location is difficult to get to.
I only noticed this in winter/cold, when I would come to my first stop light about 5 mins from home, it would have a bad idle and every now and then it would actually stall, so maybe this is a symptom of what needs to be addressed (if it wasn't the MAF sensor leanness that I just fixed though). Other than that, it feels like it drives brand new. I can't tell if my gas mileage is good or bad - some people mention that in hopes to diagnose for these codes.
Any help greatly appreciated.
From a website:
P0153
•Check and fix any exhaust leaks
•Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
•Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
•Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
•Check for inlet air leaks
•Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
•Replace the Bank 2 oxygen sensor upstream of the catalytic converter
What causes the P0133 code?
•A faulty O2 Sensor
•A leaking exhaust manifold
•An engine vacuum leak
•An open or short in the wiring of the O2 sensor
•Soot or oil buildup on the O2 sensor (excessive buildup will clog the ports the sensor uses to measure the air fuel ratio)
•A dirty mass air flow sensor
•Incorrect fuel pressure
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0133-obd-ii-trouble-code-o2-sensor-circuit-slow-response-bank-1-sensor-1-by-blake-griffin
I have this reader in case it can diagnose further with live data?
http://www.harborfreight.com/obd-ii-can-professional-scan-tool-60694.html