Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and ThawedAlaskan
New Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2011
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
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- Location
- Reno, NV
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Manual
I'm wondering if anyone has had a high idle issue that is not due to a bad TPS, IAC, or TPS connector as I have seen on the other related posts?
In my 2000 2.5L, 2wd manual trans, 87,000 original miles, I have replaced the IAC and the TPS first with no change and then the TPS connector($130 out the window alone
). I removed the throttle body and cleaned and inspected it when removing a stripped screwhead during the TPS change. The problem persists. High idle that slows down to normal in two steps when coming to a complete stop. 2,500-3,000 rpm (or so, no tach) down to 1200-1500 after 10-15 seconds, then down to 1000 after another 10 seconds where it slowly winds down to regular idle. All at a full stop, clutch in, foot completely off gas. Driving, the truck will intermittantly power itself and do about 27MPH in 3rd gear and 32 in 4th with my foot completely off the gas. I can also feel it kicking in and out while driving at part throttle and it feels like hitting the resume button on a cruise control when it kicks in. I have no CC, the throttle is NOT sticking or binding.
If I unplug the IAC there is no high idle or "self drive" issue, but obviously the truck idles low, lower when the A/C kicks on as there is no compensation for the compressor, the check engine light comes on, and the RPMs drop super fast (much faster then other 2.5Ls I've heard that are running correctly) when puting in the clutch and letting off the gas.
The problem also goes away when I pull fuse #10 in the in-cab fuse block. #10 controls: "speed control servo/amplifer assembly, generic electronic module (GEM), shift lock actuator, blend door actuator, A/C heater assembly, turn signals" When I do this everything on the truck works normally including A/C and heater controls, but no turn signals or speedo, and the engine runs like it does with the IAC unplugged (no check engine light though). I think the secret lies here, though pulling the fuse may be the same as pulling the plug on the IAC.
During this time the truck has also had a three bouts of stumbling badly while stopped at traffic lights with the A/C on (new and old IAC connected). Truck with the IAC unplugged doesn't stumble as bad with the A/C kicking on and off as it did when this happened.
The only time a check engine light appears is when the IAC is unplugged and the truck is driven for a mile or so.
Anyone have an idea of where the problem lies? Is the new IAC I installed possibly bad? I can't afford diagnostic shop time plus parts.
The truck is in excellent shape, very clean, and well taken care of by the one previous owner, BUT I am starting to get the urge to go monster truck style on it with my lifted '76 F-150!
P.S. I even tried the BB EGR vacuum block off trick (took BB back out), and the clean and di-electric grease/contact suggestions, prior to parts swaping.
In my 2000 2.5L, 2wd manual trans, 87,000 original miles, I have replaced the IAC and the TPS first with no change and then the TPS connector($130 out the window alone
). I removed the throttle body and cleaned and inspected it when removing a stripped screwhead during the TPS change. The problem persists. High idle that slows down to normal in two steps when coming to a complete stop. 2,500-3,000 rpm (or so, no tach) down to 1200-1500 after 10-15 seconds, then down to 1000 after another 10 seconds where it slowly winds down to regular idle. All at a full stop, clutch in, foot completely off gas. Driving, the truck will intermittantly power itself and do about 27MPH in 3rd gear and 32 in 4th with my foot completely off the gas. I can also feel it kicking in and out while driving at part throttle and it feels like hitting the resume button on a cruise control when it kicks in. I have no CC, the throttle is NOT sticking or binding.If I unplug the IAC there is no high idle or "self drive" issue, but obviously the truck idles low, lower when the A/C kicks on as there is no compensation for the compressor, the check engine light comes on, and the RPMs drop super fast (much faster then other 2.5Ls I've heard that are running correctly) when puting in the clutch and letting off the gas.
The problem also goes away when I pull fuse #10 in the in-cab fuse block. #10 controls: "speed control servo/amplifer assembly, generic electronic module (GEM), shift lock actuator, blend door actuator, A/C heater assembly, turn signals" When I do this everything on the truck works normally including A/C and heater controls, but no turn signals or speedo, and the engine runs like it does with the IAC unplugged (no check engine light though). I think the secret lies here, though pulling the fuse may be the same as pulling the plug on the IAC.
During this time the truck has also had a three bouts of stumbling badly while stopped at traffic lights with the A/C on (new and old IAC connected). Truck with the IAC unplugged doesn't stumble as bad with the A/C kicking on and off as it did when this happened.
The only time a check engine light appears is when the IAC is unplugged and the truck is driven for a mile or so.
Anyone have an idea of where the problem lies? Is the new IAC I installed possibly bad? I can't afford diagnostic shop time plus parts.
The truck is in excellent shape, very clean, and well taken care of by the one previous owner, BUT I am starting to get the urge to go monster truck style on it with my lifted '76 F-150!
P.S. I even tried the BB EGR vacuum block off trick (took BB back out), and the clean and di-electric grease/contact suggestions, prior to parts swaping.
