2.5 head on 2.3 block

[Mark_88]

OK, well, that's more like flooding when there is too much fuel so maybe the injector(s) are open or it is out of timing. If the fuel is pumped in on an off spark cycle then the raw fuel is being dumped into your exhaust system...

That could blow up your muffler...

I would check the timing again before trying to start again and maybe let it air out a bit before trying to start again...if the timing is way off it could fire with just fumes...

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

OK, well, that's more like flooding when there is too much fuel so maybe the injector(s) are open or it is out of timing. If the fuel is pumped in on an off spark cycle then the raw fuel is being dumped into your exhaust system...

That could blow up your muffler...

I would check the timing again before trying to start again and maybe let it air out a bit before trying to start again...if the timing is way off it could fire with just fumes...

Okay i will check timing again tomorrow, hope i didn't break anything, i need to find timing mark again. will the 2,5 head have a different timing mark or should it be a 5 o clock as well?

 

[Mark_88]

It's the same on the cam timing...5 o'clock on all Lima Heads...when the cam "lopes" and stops in that general area you should be on the intake stroke with all valves closed.

Now I'm going by memory but the one you need to worry about when there is a Crank Sensor is the Crank markings...that way the sensor will be able to pick up the proper timing information from the tone ring...

When the crank mark is pointed at 0* the piston should be at TDC regardless...because it takes two revolutions though you want to make sure you are using the crank mark and not just the piston on TDC...that would make the timing out by 180*...

Anyway...when you check it and test fuel pressure you will have a better idea what is happening...

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

It's the same on the cam timing...5 o'clock on all Lima Heads...when the cam "lopes" and stops in that general area you should be on the intake stroke with all valves closed.

Now I'm going by memory but the one you need to worry about when there is a Crank Sensor is the Crank markings...that way the sensor will be able to pick up the proper timing information from the tone ring...

When the crank mark is pointed at 0* the piston should be at TDC regardless...because it takes two revolutions though you want to make sure you are using the crank mark and not just the piston on TDC...that would make the timing out by 180*...

Anyway...when you check it and test fuel pressure you will have a better idea what is happening...

Okay i will defianlty do that first thing in morning hopegully get her running.

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

It's the same on the cam timing...5 o'clock on all Lima Heads...when the cam "lopes" and stops in that general area you should be on the intake stroke with all valves closed.

Now I'm going by memory but the one you need to worry about when there is a Crank Sensor is the Crank markings...that way the sensor will be able to pick up the proper timing information from the tone ring...

When the crank mark is pointed at 0* the piston should be at TDC regardless...because it takes two revolutions though you want to make sure you are using the crank mark and not just the piston on TDC...that would make the timing out by 180*...

Anyway...when you check it and test fuel pressure you will have a better idea what is happening...

I cant find the mark on crankshaft for the life of me i'm going to look better into it, it started raining. tdc mark is on cover correct? do i put the crankshaft marker straight up? and thats tdc? or do i have to do two different things? this is the last part and hopefully it will run.

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

It's the same on the cam timing...5 o'clock on all Lima Heads...when the cam "lopes" and stops in that general area you should be on the intake stroke with all valves closed.

Now I'm going by memory but the one you need to worry about when there is a Crank Sensor is the Crank markings...that way the sensor will be able to pick up the proper timing information from the tone ring...

When the crank mark is pointed at 0* the piston should be at TDC regardless...because it takes two revolutions though you want to make sure you are using the crank mark and not just the piston on TDC...that would make the timing out by 180*...

Anyway...when you check it and test fuel pressure you will have a better idea what is happening...

Also do i have to disconnect a sprout connector i've seen some people saying that.

 

[Mark_88]

I had to look this up online since my Haynes manual is inaccessible right now...The SPOUT connector should be in the wiring harness near the front of the engine and it is just a grey plastic plug sticking in a socket...basically a jumper.

I couldn't find any thing specific to show what you need to know for a Ranger but I did find this one for a Mustang...looks similar to yours...but it shows the mark on the crank that you seem to be missing...it's not very big...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM8Ihuske-A

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

I had to look this up online since my Haynes manual is inaccessible right now...The SPOUT connector should be in the wiring harness near the front of the engine and it is just a grey plastic plug sticking in a socket...basically a jumper.

I couldn't find any thing specific to show what you need to know for a Ranger but I did find this one for a Mustang...looks similar to yours...but it shows the mark on the crank that you seem to be missing...it's not very big...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM8Ihuske-A

Thats just like my engine thanks! have to finish this tomorrow out of all days saint petersburg wants to do a thunderstorm

 

[Mark_88]

OK, it's snowing here...but I wouldn't trade that for rain...

When you get to it...and find the SPOUT...you need to pull that out to set base timing...apparently...lol.

On my carbed engine that was all just talk that didn't worry me...

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

OK, it's snowing here...but I wouldn't trade that for rain...

When you get to it...and find the SPOUT...you need to pull that out to set base timing...apparently...lol.

On my carbed engine that was all just talk that didn't worry me...

Ha! i would kill for snow and i will find that spout and get it unplug first thing tomorow, i got the whole truck finished with insulation new interior trims and new carpet on the way new 3 way speakers new headliner all rails are sprayed with rust reformer,primer and rubber coating that stops rust. im so sick of driving my new car i want to drive something older with more character lol.

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

OK, it's snowing here...but I wouldn't trade that for rain...

When you get to it...and find the SPOUT...you need to pull that out to set base timing...apparently...lol.

On my carbed engine that was all just talk that didn't worry me...

So i think i found it after research i believe this is it can you confirm? this plug is behind the fuse box and right by the fuel relay

 

[Mark_88]

That looks like it...and, of course, it's at the other end of where I said it might be...lol

So you unplug that, set the base timing with the marks, and it should be about right...how you adjust it after that is another story but at least it should stay running if the initial problem you were having was due to the timing being off.

If not...then it gets interesting...

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

That looks like it...and, of course, it's at the other end of where I said it might be...lol

So you unplug that, set the base timing with the marks, and it should be about right...how you adjust it after that is another story but at least it should stay running if the initial problem you were having was due to the timing being off.

If not...then it gets interesting...

I got all other timing mark correct except the crankshaft i believe its off by 180 degrees the pully i can set but i cant get the pulley hub off to see if crank is set to tdc i got the bolt out the middle of hub but cant get the hub off for the life of me. just to clarify the pully goes to 10 degrees however the the hub needs to come off to see if crank is at tdc correct?

 

[Mark_88]

I don't think you need to remove the pulley at this point. The pulley does have to come off to get the belt on but you didn't break the belt. If the belt has high mileage and needs to be changed then remove the pulley for sure.

You can either use a pulley puller or I've seen people getting in behind them at taping on the pulley from underneath.

So...is the belt fairly new or do you know? They should be changed proactively every 100,000 KM or so (60,000 miles) but they may last longer and not need to be changed...it is always better to change them when you are in there so you don't have to worry about it right away.

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

I don't think you need to remove the pulley at this point. The pulley does have to come off to get the belt on but you didn't break the belt. If the belt has high mileage and needs to be changed then remove the pulley for sure.

You can either use a pulley puller or I've seen people getting in behind them at taping on the pulley from underneath.

So...is the belt fairly new or do you know? They should be changed proactively every 100,000 KM or so (60,000 miles) but they may last longer and not need to be changed...it is always better to change them when you are in there so you don't have to worry about it right away.

its still fairly new who ever had the truck before i had it did a tune up on it before i got it because the spark plugs and wires and belts were all fairly new, im going to try it again and see if i can get it. i still smell fumes when i try and start it.