2.5 head on 2.3 block

[Mark_88]

Firing order is always 1-3-4-2 on these engines. It's even stamped on some of the older intakes but not sure about the newer ones.

Same oil works for all...but I guess that would depend on what you are running to start with...5W30 worked for me most of the time just fine...really doesn't matter what brand other than mixing synthetic with regular oil...

I always installed the plugs after the other items were installed just so I didn't break them...they are the weak point and if my wrench or socket slipped that would almost guaranteed be what they hit...

I found this on the tech page (now called the How To Tech) and it is probably the best resource you can have...I would also suggest picking up a Haynes manual if you don't already have one...they list how to steps for setting the timing and other common procedures...I still have mine in a bin somewhere...and I will admit that I had one but didn't follow the steps properly and made a simple job into a very frustrating experience...

Edit: Forgot the link...

http://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/engines-fuel-systems/timing-belt-replacement-on-a-2000-and-older-ranger-4-cylinder/

So use them when you can...if you have questions about those resources there is always an answer to clarify somewhere.

Spark plugs are pretty specific to the head...a few years used same plugs but if you need clarification it is always better to list the part you are using...that way someone can check them for you and save time...

this is for the 1999 Ford 2.5...

Bosch Spark Plug
Part Number: 5530-05212362
Notes: Nickel -- Gap 0.044 in

Bosch Spark Plug
Part Number: 5530-05250275
Notes: OE Fine Wire Double Iridium -- Do Not Gap, Gap is Preset

So you can see there are a few available so without knowing your part number this list could be quite long...

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

Firing order is always 1-3-4-2 on these engines. It's even stamped on some of the older intakes but not sure about the newer ones.

Same oil works for all...but I guess that would depend on what you are running to start with...5W30 worked for me most of the time just fine...really doesn't matter what brand other than mixing synthetic with regular oil...

I always installed the plugs after the other items were installed just so I didn't break them...they are the weak point and if my wrench or socket slipped that would almost guaranteed be what they hit...

I found this on the tech page (now called the How To Tech) and it is probably the best resource you can have...I would also suggest picking up a Haynes manual if you don't already have one...they list how to steps for setting the timing and other common procedures...I still have mine in a bin somewhere...and I will admit that I had one but didn't follow the steps properly and made a simple job into a very frustrating experience...

Edit: Forgot the link...

http://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/engines-fuel-systems/timing-belt-replacement-on-a-2000-and-older-ranger-4-cylinder/

So use them when you can...if you have questions about those resources there is always an answer to clarify somewhere.

Spark plugs are pretty specific to the head...a few years used same plugs but if you need clarification it is always better to list the part you are using...that way someone can check them for you and save time...

this is for the 1999 Ford 2.5...

Bosch Spark Plug
Part Number: 5530-05212362
Notes: Nickel -- Gap 0.044 in

Bosch Spark Plug
Part Number: 5530-05250275
Notes: OE Fine Wire Double Iridium -- Do Not Gap, Gap is Preset

So you can see there are a few available so without knowing your part number this list could be quite long...

Youve been the most help i cant thank you enough, the sparks was Ap104 autolite platinum, it was my first time gapping sparks and my god hopefully they still work lol, i put everything on and have a few parts left to do, hopefully can get it done tomorow but still waiting on thermostat housing. I need to look up wiring diargram for spark wires theres two longs and rest regular.

 

[Mark_88]

Happy to help...these are fairly easy engines to work on with plenty of room under the hood which makes it ideal for someone starting out...

the AP104 is OK for that engine head but there are literally dozens of others that will work...best to stick with one and change them every 50,000 km or so...

I always used the Bosch Platinum +4 on my carbureted engine because I tried others and they all seemed to work but I found the +4s to be the best and longest lasting...I still have a set of them somewhere...they were very expensive when I first bought them $17 for 2 plugs but I rarely had to change them...I might have gone through 3 sets in 14 years and the ones I have were in good shape...

But plugs can tell you quite a bit about the engine so you might want to check them every once in a while once you get things working...there is a page in the back of the Haynes showing what the wear marks mean in terms of engine problems like too rich, too lean, oil contamination and others...

I'm sure you will have time for that later though...

Sounds like it is moving forward for you...

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

Happy to help...these are fairly easy engines to work on with plenty of room under the hood which makes it ideal for someone starting out...

the AP104 is OK for that engine head but there are literally dozens of others that will work...best to stick with one and change them every 50,000 km or so...

I always used the Bosch Platinum +4 on my carbureted engine because I tried others and they all seemed to work but I found the +4s to be the best and longest lasting...I still have a set of them somewhere...they were very expensive when I first bought them $17 for 2 plugs but I rarely had to change them...I might have gone through 3 sets in 14 years and the ones I have were in good shape...

But plugs can tell you quite a bit about the engine so you might want to check them every once in a while once you get things working...there is a page in the back of the Haynes showing what the wear marks mean in terms of engine problems like too rich, too lean, oil contamination and others...

I'm sure you will have time for that later though...

Sounds like it is moving forward for you...

Defiantly going to look into that and yes im almost finished! Im so excited only thing keep me from finishing is thermostat housing which i pickup Tuesday and its a different shape but has the bypass i need , apparaently they dont make or limitied on the long one i had so we choose a shorter ine and just gonna get a longer hose.

 

[ok2003us]

This post is a bit late but may help with some questions about the 2.3/2.5 turbo and N/A heads

 

[Mark_88]

This post is a bit late but may help with some questions about the 2.3/2.5 turbo and N/A heads

Excellent...thanks for posting those...

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

This post is a bit late but may help with some questions about the 2.3/2.5 turbo and N/A heads

I really appreciate that! it really helped! thanks!

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

Excellent...thanks for posting those...

Providing an update, Im literally almost finished i got everything on except the alternator idk where it goes and im having a really tuff time with spark plug wires theres short ones really shorts ones and long ones and where the secnd distrubutor goes. and the wire arent number and unfornuately i wasnt the one that removed them so i have no idea.

 

[Mark_88]

how many plugs are you using?

As a basic guideline, the exhaust side plugs are closer so the wires are shorter...and they use the front coil pack so what I would suggest is to start with front coil pack and front right post...the first plug #is on the front of the exhaust side...hole the wires one by one...probably the shortest wire of the bunch...and see if it reaches...if so..connect..then go do the same for the entire exhaust side plugs...using the shortest wires you have...then move to the second coil pack and start with the intake side #1 plug and use the shortest wire you have left over...

If you are using 8 plugs that is...

Something that might help also is the intake side wires might have a handle of sorts on them...that is to help pull them off the plugs when you want to change them...if they don't have them you might consider finding a set of them...they help prevent pulling the boot off the wire or other damage that yanking on them can cause...

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

how many plugs are you using?

As a basic guideline, the exhaust side plugs are closer so the wires are shorter...and they use the front coil pack so what I would suggest is to start with front coil pack and front right post...the first plug #is on the front of the exhaust side...hole the wires one by one...probably the shortest wire of the bunch...and see if it reaches...if so..connect..then go do the same for the entire exhaust side plugs...using the shortest wires you have...then move to the second coil pack and start with the intake side #1 plug and use the shortest wire you have left over...

If you are using 8 plugs that is...

Something that might help also is the intake side wires might have a handle of sorts on them...that is to help pull them off the plugs when you want to change them...if they don't have them you might consider finding a set of them...they help prevent pulling the boot off the wire or other damage that yanking on them can cause...

That defiantly makes perfect since, will try to finish today, im going by site and putting everything back on not to hard really almost finished i was so intimidated now its almost normal but still intimidated om cranking it lol

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

how many plugs are you using?

As a basic guideline, the exhaust side plugs are closer so the wires are shorter...and they use the front coil pack so what I would suggest is to start with front coil pack and front right post...the first plug #is on the front of the exhaust side...hole the wires one by one...probably the shortest wire of the bunch...and see if it reaches...if so..connect..then go do the same for the entire exhaust side plugs...using the shortest wires you have...then move to the second coil pack and start with the intake side #1 plug and use the shortest wire you have left over...

If you are using 8 plugs that is...

Something that might help also is the intake side wires might have a handle of sorts on them...that is to help pull them off the plugs when you want to change them...if they don't have them you might consider finding a set of them...they help prevent pulling the boot off the wire or other damage that yanking on them can cause...

I also need to find where alternator goes and where to unplug the port in the middle of the head from the intake.

 

[Mark_88]

You can to that by either replacing the hose with the splitter in it..the one that branches out to the intake and heater rad core...just buy a section of 3' hose that should be 5/8" diameter (it will be marked)...or take the old hose to the store and get them to replace it with the same diameter.

Or you could buy a coupling connector that will join the two sections of hose together and run it to the heater core on the firewall. I personally don't like that method because it creates two more potential leak points.

I would suggest replacing the hoses regardless of all that if possible. The last thing you want to do is have a hose burst causing the engine to overheat...so new hoses every few years is a small price to pay for that protection...even though you can probably go much longer without having to replace them.

Hoses are good as long as there are no cracks or obvious bulges, burns, or abrasions when they get too close to the fan or belts. The clamps re probably good unless they are rusted but it doesn't hurt to inspect them and even test them by loosening and tightening to make sure he clamp is not weakened.

Check the online manual in the link below...easy to use...it will allow you to see where the alternator should be placed on the engine. If you already have a bracket then you are halfway there...make sure to put in the correct year of the engine in original configuration...1989 2.3...even if you are using a 2.5 head...it is still using the 2.3 configuration.

 

[Mark_88]

That defiantly makes perfect since, will try to finish today, im going by site and putting everything back on not to hard really almost finished i was so intimidated now its almost normal but still intimidated om cranking it lol

Actually, I got the firing order wrong...sorry...

I just checked the diagram for the 1989 and it shows the firing order and coil packs different from what I recall...

Check the online manual for the engine firing order for that year...and there is a diagram that shows how they should be routed for an 89 2.3...

 

[Mark_88]

See if this uploads...

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

See if this uploads...

Im going to check those out i ran into another problem it looks as if the 2.5 head doesnt have the holes for the second coil pack i need to figure that out and hopefully i can finish.