1996 Leaf Spring Replacement

[sgtsandman]

Took a better look at all the components tonight. Spring bolts and hanger brackets look good so I will reuse them. I will replace the shackles along with the springs, since they are pretty rough looking. Gonna hit everything with penetrant daily until the parts get in. Think ahead for a change.

Be prepared to be cutting the rear bolts. They catch all the spray from the tires and refuse to break free from the bushing in the spring, even if you are able to get the nut off. The front ones have never been an issue for me. The back ones ended up getting cut with either an angle grinder with a cut off wheel or an sawzall.

 

[sgtsandman]

Is this a time I should use red thread locker? On the spring bolts, the shackle bolts etc? I read somewhere that you should retorque everything after the first 20 miles of driving due to settling of components. Then retorque daily until they don't need added torque.

Good idea with securing the bags. I can get tube sand that is meant for water breaks for $5 for 70lbs. I think the tubes are ok to handle water.

The spring mount bolts are usually pretty good after the 1st check, if they even move. The u-bolts for the springs, it takes 3 or 4 times before everything settles in place and no longer turns. Just the nature of the beast. Things aren't loosening. The springs and axle are just seating better.

And I would not use thread locker but if you are going to use something, you can pick whatever. I'm not sure if red thread locker would cause an issue with re-torquing the u-bolts or not. You may get a false indication, not letting the nuts tighten down enough, maybe.

 

[crowfather]

So far so good. Everything on the right side came apart nicely. I am still waiting for the new springs to come in so I just took apart the passenger side today and got it ready for the new spring. I thought there was some flaking rust but it was just cracking off paint. I took a needler to the brackets and frame. They look good as I suspected. I left the driver side together for now. I did have to remove the shock absorber to lower the axle enough to get the spring out but that wasn't much trouble.

One thing I cannot find on the forum/website is a list of all the torque specs. Can anybody direct me that way?

 

[sgtsandman]

So far so good. Everything on the right side came apart nicely. I am still waiting for the new springs to come in so I just took apart the passenger side today and got it ready for the new spring. I thought there was some flaking rust but it was just cracking off paint. I took a needler to the brackets and frame. They look good as I suspected. I left the driver side together for now. I did have to remove the shock absorber to lower the axle enough to get the spring out but that wasn't much trouble.

One thing I cannot find on the forum/website is a list of all the torque specs. Can anybody direct me that way?

Give me a minute and I'll see what the shop manual for my 2011 and the Haynes manual says. If I remember correctly, yours are a little different design. So, I'd rather check both to be sure. The Haynes manual covers a span of years instead of one specific one.

EDIT: It's a good thing I checked, they are different for a '96.

I'm not sure what you took apart. So I may be giving more information than needed.

Rear spring u-bolt nut: 65-87 lbs/ft (it's not required for your year but incrementally stepping up the torque tends to get them tightened down better and more evenly. ie 22, 44, 66, 85 as an example. That is the procedure for the 2006 and up. Once you get to full torque, the later checks are only at the full torque value.

Shock to lower bracket nut: 39 to 53 lbs/ft

Shackle to spring nut and bolt: 65 to 87 lbs/ft

Spring shackle to bracket bolt: 65 to 87 lbs/ft

Spring to front bracket bolt: 65 to 87 lbs/ft

For checking the u-bolt nuts. I drove it to work and home (28 miles round trip) and checked the torque. I had to do that three times before the nuts would no longer turn.

 

[crowfather]

I appreciate it.

Specifically need:
Shackle bolt and spring bolt specs: I suspect they are the same
U-bolt specs
Shock absorber spec

 

[crowfather]

Give me a minute and I'll see what the shop manual for my 2011 and the Haynes manual says. If I remember correctly, yours are a little different design. So, I'd rather check both to be sure. The Haynes manual covers a span of years instead of one specific one.

EDIT: It's a good thing I checked, they are different for a '96.

I'm not sure what you took apart. So I may be giving more information than needed.

Rear spring u-bolt nut: 65-87 lbs/ft (it's not required for your year but incrementally stepping up the torque tends to get them tightened down better and more evenly. ie 22, 44, 66, 85 as an example. That is the procedure for the 2006 and up. Once you get to full torque, the later checks are only at the full torque value.

Shock to lower bracket nut: 39 to 53 lbs/ft

Shackle to spring nut and bolt: 65 to 87 lbs/ft

Spring shackle to bracket bolt: 65 to 87 lbs/ft

Spring to front bracket bolt: 65 to 87 lbs/ft

For checking the u-bolt nuts. I drove it to work and home (28 miles round trip) and checked the torque. I had to do that three times before the nuts would no longer turn.

Fantastic! Thanks so much. I'll update the thread when the parts come in and report on how the rest went.

 

[crowfather]

Update!!

After being delayed by work and other life events I finally got back to this project.

I was able to install the new spring on the passenger side without much issue. Thankfully I could reuse the nuts with that flange to get everything tightened back up. The driver side gave more of an issue. The shackle bolts came out without a problem but the front spring bolt was rusted to the inside of the bushing. I had to cut that one with a grinder. Still not the worst. After that I did the same as what I did no the passenger side. I needled the surface rust off and used some rust reformer on what was left. Spring went in without problems and everything is back together now.

I took her for a test drive today. My route was about 15 miles. It included hills, speed bumps and varying speeds with some turns. When I got home I checked torque on the U-bolts and they were still torqued up. I will keep checking every 50 miles or so.

Thanks again to everybody for the help.