• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

1995/2.3 Cold weather starts


jet_doctor

New Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2007
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Hello,
My cold start problem seems to be unique to some of the other ones I've read. As the outside temp decreases the problem shows itself and gets worse as the temp decreases further. Normally, when you start the engine the rpm runs over the 2500 rpm mark and then stabilizes at 1500. With mine as the temp gets down around the freezing mark the truck fires up and runs at a very low rpm (around 1000 or less) and then after 5-10 seconds the engine will surge to 2500 rpm and then stabilize at a normal idle rpm. As the temp drops further the engine goes into a surge/falter cycle decreasing in severity until it runs normally. When it gets really cold the engine will sometimes quit before it gets to that first initial surge, in which case a re-start gets me going. One clue is that having the block heater plugged in hides the problem when the weather is extremely cold. I have never experienced any power loss while driving. So far the fuel filter has been changed, its had a fuel system treatment and the ECM software was updated...No joy.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance
 


TireIron

New Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
513
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Age
42
Location
Methuen, MA
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
what weight oil do you run in it? and how old is your battery?
 

jet_doctor

New Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2007
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
I run Mobil 1 5W30, have been since I got the truck in '96. Battery is less than two years old. The problem was a little annoying at first, but has been getting worse over the past two seasons
 

TireIron

New Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
513
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Age
42
Location
Methuen, MA
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
the IAC valve may be sticking, it is a film canister sized valve with two wires attached to it bolted onto the throttle body with two bolts. You can try pulling it off and cleaning it out with some good carb cleaner and getting all the carbon out of it.
 

shadetree

New Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2007
Messages
1,794
Reaction score
9
Points
0
Age
84
Location
East Texas
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Explorer Sport
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Automatic
Check the engine coolant temperature(ECT) sensor circuit. shady
 

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY

New Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2007
Messages
87
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Age
56
Location
Nebraska
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Hello,
... Normally, when you start the engine the rpm runs over the 2500 rpm mark and then stabilizes at 1500...
1500 is too high for a "normal" stabilizing rpm. Should see 650-1000 rpm normally.

T.
 

TireIron

New Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
513
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Age
42
Location
Methuen, MA
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
when the engine is cold it will sit at 1500 for a few minutes while it starts to warm up then it will drop to its usual 800 or so if you don't touch the gas pedal.
 

HAPPY_RANGER_GUY

New Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2007
Messages
87
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Age
56
Location
Nebraska
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
when the engine is cold it will sit at 1500 for a few minutes while it starts to warm up then it will drop to its usual 800 or so if you don't touch the gas pedal.
That's what i said...1500 is too high for normal stabilizing idle rpm. :icon_twisted:

T.
 

jet_doctor

New Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2007
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Thanks for all of the prompt responces,

I apologize, my figures for the idle may have been a little inaccurate. I was more concerned about the delayed surging and faltering. Both of you are correct, 1500 is too high for a stabilized idle and the idle rpm does descend in stages. Mine seems to want to hang around the 900 to 1100 mark after a short warm up. Anyways, yesterday I changed the fuel pressure regulator, the ECT sensor, and the PCV valve(the old one was perfect). The engine seems to be running a bit better, both in the starting and it seems to have recovered some power I hadn't noticed was missing. Not sure yet if the problem is solved this morning wasn't cold enough to give me the warm and fuzzies. If I get the chance tonight, I'm going to clean out the IAC valve. I also noticed that the engine is pinging since the new parts have been installed. Do your engines ping on 87 octane fuel? I remember when I got the truck I had to run mid-grade to get rid of it. We are at a pretty high altitude here...about 3500'ASL. Stay tuned I'll let you guys know what happens over the next few days, the temperature is supposed to drop a bit.

Thanks again for all the advice.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Mudtruggy
May Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top