1991 Ranger XLT Fuel/Carb Problem?

[tbirdsps]

I don't know how to check it but the crankshaft position sensor could cause your problem as well.

 

[akcskye]

Another update

Dave, I don't mean to question your comment, but a mechanic in the area I called today has told us that both coil packs should fire when cranking, and that he feels that the ignition module still has a problem.

He says that Autozone can check them, but sometimes, they show up as working when they really don't.

What he has offered is that if he has a test module (meaning an ignition module he knows that works) for our truck model, he'll let us take it and install it on our truck and if it works, we know it's the ignition module that was bad. (He and my dad go back a ways, is probably why he's being so nice as to let us do that).

He says if it's not the ignition module, then certainly the coil pack is then a possibility if only one side is firing.

But, what do you think about this? Are we being told the wrong thing?

 

[Dave R]

The non-firing on the driver's side comes fight from the Ford manual and from my and many other guy's first hand experiences. It reduces the strain on the starter when cranking. Either way, even if only one side is firing the engine should still start if everything else is working correctly.

If the guy is willing to loan you a known good module, I'd take him up on it. It would be a cheap way to either confirm or eliminate a possibility.

Are you sure the timing belt hasn't snapped or jumped a few teeth?

 

[akcskye]

Update

Well, I haven't posted in awhile on Cricket.

Cricket is sitting IN FRONT OF MY HOUSE!!! And it DROVE itself there!!!

Still some work left to do, so that's why I wanted to run more info by you guys.

Dad got to rocking the truck and would hear the gas splashing in the tank, and then it would start.

So, last weekend, Dad and Tony took off the bed and replaced the float and fuel pump.

Starts like a charm...but now the idle is VERY rough...we're thinking spark plug wire maybe?

You can drive it no problem...it just sounds "under-revved"...take a normal Rangers sound, and slow it down by about half...I don't know if you'd call that a rough idle or not. haha

Anyway, the occasional cutting out when accelerating is gone, we think thanks to the fuel pump (btw: the float was corroded and now that it's replaced, our fuel gauge works again!!!)...so...spark plug wires...anything else we may need to consider for the idle?

I am so happy...with it running, there is hope...it's been dead for awhile!

 

[Joshs93four-oh]

Ya know, this almost sounds like an intermittent crank sensor to me...
Josh
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Health shop

 

[Dave R]

Ya know, this almost sounds like an intermittent crank sensor to me...

Why would you think that?

Rough idle could be caused by a number of things. I guess you could start with the wires, if they are old. I'd also check the fuel pressure and the intake vacuum at idle.

 

[akcskye]

A video link

If you have high speed internet, I've created a quick video (too large to just send people, though) of Cricket so you can hear the engine and see what I am talking about.

Just click here:

http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?vid=2032846

If anyone has any ideas after watching the video, would love your feedback.

(BTW: The loud muffler is because Cricket has an old glass pack...it's not a bad muffler. haha The sound is much louder than a standard 4 cyl ranger).

Kristi

 

[Joshs93four-oh]

Listened to your tape...your truck is only running on 2 or 3 cylinders. You need to go back to basics- should be very easy to check the engine compression on the passengers side. I dont know what the specification is but should be at least 150 psi, maybe 130 minimum. Disable the fuel system (pull fuel pump fuse or relay) and hold the accelerator wide open and crank it for about 5-6 revolutions. Of course you have a whole new set of possibilities that will require diagnosis if you do have low compression readings. Some time ago I worked on a 94 Ranger 2.3 same setup...ran like crap, would not even go 30 mph. I spent 2 hours trying to diagnose the problem before I started pulling spark plugs. They were all wasted...replaced the plugs and wires and fixed it right up. I never thought to check them because I thought there was no way that "plugs abd wires" could be causing such a problem and it did run worse than your truck. As far as testing the module...pretty useless in my opinion. You have to test them over and over and over again to get them hot to really tell If theyre bad, unless theyre totally shorted and you have a "no start" symptom. As far as replacing the plugs and wires it will be alot easier to just remove the throttle body to help access the driver's side bank if you dont have really good hand tools. As far as the dual plug inhibit system- yes, only the passenger side bank gets spark during cranking. One side fires on the ignition stroke, the other on the exhaust stroke. This is an emissions setup. Let us know what happens with it. I'm still concerned with the possibility of a bad or misaligned crank sensor especially with your screwy tachometer. Remember it has been a while since I've worked on one of these so anyone correct me if I'm wrong please. Josh
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MFLB

 

[High Desert Ranger]

Check the firing order on the wires to the coil packs, if during the whole spark plug change you mixed up a couple wires it could cause a miss.