1987 ford ranger, $6,000 and a toolbox.


rusty ol ranger

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Honestly, ive only really done much off roading with 1 carb, and thats the 2150 2bbl, which, would never flow enough in its wildest dreams to do what you need. Ive seen/run quite a few 4bbls in the mud but cant really speak how they do on angles. For what its worth im an edelbrock guy.

The holley truck avenger ive heard does very well on angles and things. Contrary to popular belief theres still a ton of guys wheelin' with carbs,

Check out some jeep/crawler forums, im sure they can offer more insight into a good off road 4bbl then i can.

In general though, it sounds like youre not planning on doing any extreme ridin. Really any 4bbl is going to perform good unless you start really getting extreme on your hill climbs.

Im sure one of the EFI cheerleaders will be along shortly, but IMO EFI is nothing but a headache for very little benifit over a good carb.
 
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85_Ranger4x4

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I have an Edelbrock 1403... but I am a flatlander with no trails. Going thru plowed ground I have gotten it to start to flood out until I stopped and let it catch up. Otherwise general day to day "farm truck" kind of offroading I have had zero issues.

I have been doing research in case I get the old girl patched up enough to make it to the round up trail ride in Ohio for how to improve the carb offroad and found this:


I have also bumped into tidbits that quadrajets are the best for an offroad 4bbl, Holley Truck Avenger is good too although they can be pretty thirsty. Really IMO if you are going to do a lot of offroading a TBI setup like FiTech doesn't cost a whole lot more than a new truck avenger and will do anything a TA will do better.



What I have is significantly cheaper than either, according to the video than can be made to work pretty good offroad but I haven't got the truck even driving yet to find out:

 

Bird76Mojo

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IMO EFI is nothing but a headache for very little benifit over a good carb.
Fanboy here... :giggle:

How is it a headache to have easier starting, especially in cold weather, and a system that doesn't care if it's on a steep incline or not?? Not to mention the far better mileage and a cleaner running vehicle.. I see no headache whatsoever. Efficiency is a good thing. So is not having to troubleshoot or tune a carb. With systems like the FiTech it'll self tune as you add more modded/aftermarket parts to your engine. Can't say that about a carb.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Fanboy here... :giggle:

How is it a headache to have easier starting, especially in cold weather, and a system that doesn't care if it's on a steep incline or not?? Not to mention the far better mileage and a cleaner running vehicle.. I see no headache whatsoever. Efficiency is a good thing. So is not having to troubleshoot or tune a carb. With systems like the FiTech it'll self tune as you add more modded/aftermarket parts to your engine. Can't say that about a carb.
Its a headache as you unbox the f'in thing to find 50 miles of colored spaghetti that all has to be just right for it to work.

Carbs will start just as easy as EFI, just gotta have a good choke and proper high idle.

On an incline id rather be starving for fuel then starving for oil. The whole "carbs dont do hills" thing is grossly overstated.

Ive only had 1 carb choke out on an incline, and that was a piece of shit 1bbl carter on a 300I6. Never had an issue with a 2150.

As for emissions and MPG? Well it sounds like this isnt going to be a DD so who cares?

Not to mention most of the MPG gains were had with the addition of O/D. My 77 400 can squeeze 13-14 with a carb and a C6. Granted with a 3.07 rear which would put it at cruise RPM to something with O/D.

Most modern pickups dont do much better in the real world, and surely wouldnt with a 6.6L V8.
 

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You obviously know very little about modern aftermarket EFI system installations...

 

rusty ol ranger

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You obviously know very little about modern aftermarket EFI system installations...

Still aint gonna be as easy as 4 nuts, fuel line, and throttle cable.
 

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This is someone's build thread guys...
 

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This is someone's build thread guys...
Naw I'm good with it lol its entertaining plus sometimes you learn something new from the off topic stuff.
 

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Picked up a 2013 tundra 10.5 rear axle today got it at a good price too cant wait to start building it for the ranger sending it off to a welding shop after I gut the housing to be built and have all the right brackets put on.
 

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So I decided on building my 351w but I want more than 4 grand can get me (400hp pump gas crate engine) for my engine build so I'm going to hold off till my next bonus. Till than I'm throwing new heads on the old 2.9 and building my 10.5 tundra rear that I got at a price I couldn't miss out on. Also ordering fiber wide body fenders, bed sides, and a lighter hood. Next tackle is figuring out my front end. (Any suggestions)? I may throw together a turbo kit for fun if I can figure out how to do it with speed density. If anyone knows a copy and paste system let me know.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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So I decided on building my 351w but I want more than 4 grand can get me (400hp pump gas crate engine) for my engine build so I'm going to hold off till my next bonus. Till than I'm throwing new heads on the old 2.9 and building my 10.5 tundra rear that I got at a price I couldn't miss out on. Also ordering fiber wide body fenders, bed sides, and a lighter hood. Next tackle is figuring out my front end. (Any suggestions)? I may throw together a turbo kit for fun if I can figure out how to do it with speed density. If anyone knows a copy and paste system let me know.
Been working this out for my own 2.9L build. No definitive luck on a bolt together, but some answers between the 2.9l MAF conversion article and talking with the guys at TwEECer. I can post/pm the details if you'd like.

My gut reaction was to turbocharge the 2.9. It's starting to look like I'm better served to go the supercharger route.

The ideal charger looks like the SC14 or the SC12 out of a Toyota Previa or MR2. The SC14 is an absolute testament to badass-ery as its a supercharger rigged to an on-demand electric clutch, complete with bypass valves, etc. for under $500 used. Think Mad Max.

A few folks will absolutely disagree with me on this. I'm good with that. If you'd like, research the build done by @DCinDC. He has an awesome setup.

Don't completely knock the 2.9 for bigger. Yes, it's a mouse motor. Yes, they have issues from the factory. They also snap to life instantly with the proper setup, have a nearly bulletproof bottom end, and are very easy to source cheap parts for.

The biggest three issues are cracking heads, upper valvetrain oiling, and TFI module detonation. All three are easily fixed. Heads will not crack with the addition of a 4.0l twin row radiator (first gen Explorer/auto/ac/towing - rock auto, $86) and getting rid of the main issue that causes cracked heads, the (and I cannot emphasize this enough) ENGINE DETONATING GARBAGE factory manifolds. If you do put headers on, DO NOT use pacesetter. JBA stainless are cheaper on eBay or the parts section of this forum. Seriously. Ditch the manifolds. They demolished my first set of heads.

Upper valvetrain oiling is solved with aftermarket cam bearings and a new/reversed cam thrust plate. Have a set of rocker arm spacers made. You won't regret it. Run synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter. Your engine will thank you.

TFI module detonation is easier still. Shielded cable, a used PC heatsink, and a used 12v pc fan.

All of these have been done to mine, with MANY modifications I did not mention. Night and day difference. I will always issue the challenge to any 4.0l fan to knock my 2.9 after driving it (I'll be at the TRS 20th anniversary trail ride). Yes, it doesn't have the "truck grunt" that a 4.0 "sorta" has. It's a European sports saloon engine with oversized intake runners bolted on to change the torque curve. And it's a F***ING BLAST to drive.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Been working this out for my own 2.9L build. No definitive luck on a bolt together, but some answers between the 2.9l MAF conversion article and talking with the guys at TwEECer. I can post/pm the details if you'd like.

My gut reaction was to turbocharge the 2.9. It's starting to look like I'm better served to go the supercharger route.

The ideal charger looks like the SC14 or the SC12 out of a Toyota Previa or MR2. The SC14 is an absolute testament to badass-ery as its a supercharger rigged to an on-demand electric clutch, complete with bypass valves, etc. for under $500 used. Think Mad Max.

A few folks will absolutely disagree with me on this. I'm good with that. If you'd like, research the build done by @DCinDC. He has an awesome setup.

Don't completely knock the 2.9 for bigger. Yes, it's a mouse motor. Yes, they have issues from the factory. They also snap to life instantly with the proper setup, have a nearly bulletproof bottom end, and are very easy to source cheap parts for.

The biggest three issues are cracking heads, upper valvetrain oiling, and TFI module detonation. All three are easily fixed. Heads will not crack with the addition of a 4.0l twin row radiator (first gen Explorer/auto/ac/towing - rock auto, $86) and getting rid of the main issue that causes cracked heads, the (and I cannot emphasize this enough) ENGINE DETONATING GARBAGE factory manifolds. If you do put headers on, DO NOT use pacesetter. JBA stainless are cheaper on eBay or the parts section of this forum. Seriously. Ditch the manifolds. They demolished my first set of heads.

Upper valvetrain oiling is solved with aftermarket cam bearings and a new/reversed cam thrust plate. Have a set of rocker arm spacers made. You won't regret it. Run synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter. Your engine will thank you.

TFI module detonation is easier still. Shielded cable, a used PC heatsink, and a used 12v pc fan.

All of these have been done to mine, with MANY modifications I did not mention. Night and day difference. I will always issue the challenge to any 4.0l fan to knock my 2.9 after driving it (I'll be at the TRS 20th anniversary trail ride). Yes, it doesn't have the "truck grunt" that a 4.0 "sorta" has. It's a European sports saloon engine with oversized intake runners bolted on to change the torque curve. And it's a F***ING BLAST to drive.
Over in europe ford was matching the 4.0 for HP (160hp) and beating it for torque (240ft lbs vs 220 for the 4.0) with the DOHC 2.9. So the potential is there....

Ive only had stock 2.9s and even in natural form they are a fun as hell engine that strike a good balance between revvy road racer and truck like stump puller.

The 2.9 was far and away better then GMs or Fords 2.8, and unless youre looking at nothing but reliabilty better then the 3.0 to.

I also believe the only reason the 2.9 gets tossed away like trash is because the 4.0 is basically a drop in. Had the 4.0 been based off say, the 3.0 then the 2.9 would be much more highly regarded.

Its just like a 400 vs 460. People completly disregard the 400 as trash becauae the 460 (while only slightly better for power, and IMO worse for reliability) is a bolt in.
 

Bird76Mojo

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GM's 3.1 stomped the holy hell out of Ford's 2.9 - especially when it was in front of a manual gearbox. The things were stupid fast. They were also far more reliable.

Just sayin...
 

rusty ol ranger

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GM's 3.1 stomped the holy hell out of Ford's 2.9 - especially when it was in front of a manual gearbox. The things were stupid fast. They were also far more reliable.

Just sayin...
Was tbe 3.1 offered in the S10/S10 blazer? Nope. I was compareing small pickup engines.
 


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