OnePunchRabbit
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2019
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 1
- Location
- Texas
- Vehicle Year
- 1985
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Transmission
- Manual
Hello!
To start off I'd like to say what a wonderful and helpful forum this is! So, I recently bought a 1985 ford ranger 2.3L manual as my first "real" project car, owner was upfront about the no start and told me he already threw a bunch of parts at it.
After messing with the truck for a few days, I narrowed down the no start to no spark at the ignition coil. I followed this article in diagnosing both the coil and ICM:
2
And the ground on the connector to the ICM only reads about 7.72v with the key in the ignition and in the on position. According to the article it should read about 10-12v. The next tests in that article failed.
Because of the article I believe there is a open circuit somewhere and I have no idea how to find it.
Now, the truck had a bunch of extra homerigged wiring put in for an after market head unit and speakers so I believe it could be because of that.
My question is, am I right with diagnosis or completely wrong? How would I go about finding the root of the issue? I do not believe its mechanical since the coil and module seem to be new (at least that's what the guy said)
I am not a master mechanic by any means and this is my first experience dabbling with electrical issues so any suggestions and advice are extremely appreciated!
To start off I'd like to say what a wonderful and helpful forum this is! So, I recently bought a 1985 ford ranger 2.3L manual as my first "real" project car, owner was upfront about the no start and told me he already threw a bunch of parts at it.
After messing with the truck for a few days, I narrowed down the no start to no spark at the ignition coil. I followed this article in diagnosing both the coil and ICM:
2
And the ground on the connector to the ICM only reads about 7.72v with the key in the ignition and in the on position. According to the article it should read about 10-12v. The next tests in that article failed.
Because of the article I believe there is a open circuit somewhere and I have no idea how to find it.
Now, the truck had a bunch of extra homerigged wiring put in for an after market head unit and speakers so I believe it could be because of that.
My question is, am I right with diagnosis or completely wrong? How would I go about finding the root of the issue? I do not believe its mechanical since the coil and module seem to be new (at least that's what the guy said)
I am not a master mechanic by any means and this is my first experience dabbling with electrical issues so any suggestions and advice are extremely appreciated!