sub with jumper seats

[baxtej44]

when i did my 60/40 bucket seat mod took me about 20 mins with a hacksaw i didnt ever cut the fabric just folded it over and sewed it down real good .. looked factory..

how did you sew it back down? so something like a sawzall would work?





box dimensions to get an internal volume of .89cf

13" tall
25" wide (have to recheck on this, it won't fit if it goes beyond the width of the passenger seat (which is why it would be nice to do the bucket conversion, then it could be wider)
top depth of 6"
bottom depth of 8.5"

3/4 mdf

 

[flyingbrick]

oh, you have that exact sub?

well alot of people say "slim mount" subs don't hit/sound as well. idk if it's true, but i knew they knew alot more about stuff than me, so i believed it.


if you think i will be super happy with the kenwood, especially since the price is RIGHTTTT, then i will get it. last time i was sketchy about someone suggesting a speaker, i got it, and was very impressed.



leaving for greece on the 29th of may, wanted to get everything ordered so it's all ready for me to work on, possibly before i go a bit, or right when i get back!

i believe the kenwood is a SVC, so should i look for a mono amp? don't think my dash speakers can take an amp, because they are like 20w rms anyway, and i don't have any other speakers (will be tearing out the stock rears, possibly keeping the boxes though)

Yeah i have a Kenwood KFC-XW1200F shallow mount 12", there is no denying it is a shallow mount, they don't "hit" like a regular sub will it's a given. Sound wise mine is set up for SQ (short of the HU) and it sounds great, the Kenwood is a SVC 4Ohm.

The amp, I am running a very over powering mono amp, BUT i have my gains lower then anyone I know could limbo under.

If you want what i think you want, the Kenwood will be fine, but you wont be winning any SPL contests.

 

[baxtej44]

Yeah i have a Kenwood KFC-WC1200F shallow mount 12", there is no denying it is a shallow mount, they don't "hit" like a regular sub will it's a given. Sound wise mine is set up for SQ (short of the HU) and it sounds great, the Kenwood is a SVC 4Ohm.

The amp, I am running a very over powering mono amp, BUT i have my gains lower then anyone I know could limbo under.

If you want what i think you want, the Kenwood will be fine, but you wont be winning any SPL contests.

what do you mean short of the HU?
i want a sort of in between i guess between SQ and SPL... i like to hear my music/feel it in my cab.... but i'd also like to turn some heads... do you ever turn heads with the kenwood sub i posted up?



how do you have your kenwood hooked up? well i guess only one way? do you just have a channel firing at it? or did you do two channels? how do you wire two channels together?

if i have a 2 channel sub, rated at 200w per channel at 4 ohms, and i bridge them together, do i get 400w going to my sub?










is it better to have an amp that is slightly under rated, or the exact in numbers as the sub with the gain all the way up, or have it be slightly to moderately over powered with the gain slightly less than maximum?

 

[flyingbrick]

what do you mean short of the HU?
i want a sort of in between i guess between SQ and SPL... i like to hear my music/feel it in my cab.... but i'd also like to turn some heads... do you ever turn heads with the kenwood sub i posted up?

how do you have your kenwood hooked up? well i guess only one way? do you just have a channel firing at it? or did you do two channels? how do you wire two channels together?

if i have a 2 channel sub, rated at 200w per channel at 4 ohms, and i bridge them together, do i get 400w going to my sub?

is it better to have an amp that is slightly under rated, or the exact in numbers as the sub with the gain all the way up, or have it be slightly to moderately over powered with the gain slightly less than maximum?

My head unit is old, and i don't have the money to upgrade it yet. I am not driving my ranger right now cause I am not working and my Mazda is cheaper to run, but also i am feeding the sub about 5-600W RMS so yes i turn heads.
Well there is only one way to hook up a SVC sub, and i have a mono amp it only has one channel, but for a two channel to bridge it you'd go positive on one channel and negative of the other.
For ratings of amps check the specs of the amp cause when you bridge you don't always double your power.

You NEVER want your gains more then halfway if you can avoid it. I'd aim for as close to the 350W RMS for the Kenwood as possible. but no more then 500 W RMS.

 

[baxtej44]

My head unit is old, and i don't have the money to upgrade it yet. I am not driving my ranger right now cause I am not working and my Mazda is cheaper to run, but also i am feeding the sub about 5-600W RMS so yes i turn heads.
Well there is only one way to hook up a SVC sub, and i have a mono amp it only has one channel, but for a two channel to bridge it you'd go positive on one channel and negative of the other.
For ratings of amps check the specs of the amp cause when you bridge you don't always double your power.

You NEVER want your gains more then halfway if you can avoid it. I'd aim for as close to the 350W RMS for the Kenwood as possible. but no more then 500 W RMS.

okay, i'll look for a mono block amp, with around 400-600w rms x 1 channel @ 4 ohms, and set my gain back.

when setting my gain, am i just putting the sub at listening volume and turning it down slowly until i hear no distortion?

should i download some bass test songs or do regular listening songs?

 

[baxtej44]

i think i'm just gonna go with crutchfield for my amp?
not sure if i should go with them, or go maybe ocs or ebay or somethin... let me know what you guys think

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020DPX1851/Clarion-DPX1851.html?tp=115
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17887
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17289
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19889
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18350
http://cgi.ebay.com/2009-KENWOOD-KAC-9104D-CLASS-D-MONO-AMPLIFIER-1800W_W0QQitemZ260388093630QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item3ca056febe&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72:1234|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1308|301:1|293:1|294:50

 

[flyingbrick]

i think i'm just gonna go with crutchfield for my amp?
not sure if i should go with them, or go maybe ocs or ebay or somethin... let me know what you guys think

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020DPX1851/Clarion-DPX1851.html?tp=115
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17887
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17289
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19889
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18350
http://cgi.ebay.com/2009-KENWOOD-KAC-9104D-CLASS-D-MONO-AMPLIFIER-1800W_W0QQitemZ260388093630QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item3ca056febe&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72:1234|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1308|301:1|293:1|294:50

Most of those amps would be fine, but I’d not go with the CRUNCH, or the Kenwood both are putting out a little more power then I’d recommend.

How I was taught to set your baseline gains is run the "flat" audio setting on the deck, minim on the amp, go to CD and with out a CD in the HU turn it up to 3/4 volume, and start turning up the sub till you can just barely hear static, then turn it back till you can't hear it anymore. Then play with the settings on the deck and then NEVER EVER use bass-boost or the LOUD setting.

 

[Grapesoda]

i made mine out of an old bookshelf sub box, my 10" type S just fits depth wise.
thats in a 94 ranger supercab

 

[baxtej44]

Most of those amps would be fine, but I’d not go with the CRUNCH, or the Kenwood both are putting out a little more power then I’d recommend.

How I was taught to set your baseline gains is run the "flat" audio setting on the deck, minim on the amp, go to CD and with out a CD in the HU turn it up to 3/4 volume, and start turning up the sub till you can just barely hear static, then turn it back till you can't hear it anymore. Then play with the settings on the deck and then NEVER EVER use bass-boost or the LOUD setting.

okay, i won't go with the crunch.

okay so no EQ settings on the HU activated when setting up my sub? so do low mid high fade and bal all at 0? and then what do you mean by turn up the sub? do you mean the gain on the amp up until i can barely hear static? and so after i do that, i can put the different EQ's on the HU back on? there are settings on my HU, but idk if they are loud settings or not.










sub:
kenwood excelon KFC-XW1200F (new at amazon), 50-350w RMS at 4 ohms, ($200 at crutch, $80 at amazon)

amp:
Pioneer PRSD1100 (new at amazon), 400w at 4 ohms, ($208 at amazon)

wiring kit:
can i go with a street wires 8 gauge kit?

either 8 or 10 gauge wiring kit i assume, with a 100 amp inline fuse?

 

[flyingbrick]

okay so no EQ settings on the HU activated when setting up my sub? so do low mid high fade and bal all at 0? and then what do you mean by turn up the sub? do you mean the gain on the amp up until i can barely hear static? and so after i do that, i can put the different EQ's on the HU back on? there are settings on my HU, but idk if they are loud settings or not.

Yeah you want all your EQ settings to be at 0, balance/ fader does not matter though, then you turn up the gain till you hear static, and then back down till you hear NO static. Yes then you can play with your EQ settings BUT even if you use a "pre-made" EQ setting (Rock, Pop, Jess) go in the settings and turn the bass down (unless the bass is low already) so you avoid clipping as much as possible.

For the amp wiring kit if the amp will take it, I’d run a 4 gauge kit with what ever fuse it comes with.

Edit: I just looked at that amp again, and it wont take 4 gauge, so yes an 8 gauge kit with atleast an 80A fuse would be fine.

 

[baxtej44]

Yeah you want all your EQ settings to be at 0, balance/ fader does not matter though, then you turn up the gain till you hear static, and then back down till you hear NO static. Yes then you can play with your EQ settings BUT even if you use a "pre-made" EQ setting (Rock, Pop, Jess) go in the settings and turn the bass down (unless the bass is low already) so you avoid clipping as much as possible.

For the amp wiring kit if the amp will take it, I’d run a 4 gauge kit with what ever fuse it comes with.

Edit: I just looked at that amp again, and it wont take 4 gauge, so yes an 8 gauge kit with atleast an 80A fuse would be fine.

okay, and i tried to do the whole cd mode with no cd in, but it won't let me.

anyway, i just should listen to my sub for any like "rattling" noise right? i know when my dash speakers are at their max... if they go beyond it i think the spider starts hitting the surround or somethin.. it makes a rattling noise, so then i turn it down

anyway, what ALL do i need?

amp
sub
8g wiring kit (what should i look for included... should i pay extra for street wires brand?)

 

[flyingbrick]

okay, and i tried to do the whole cd mode with no cd in, but it won't let me.

anyway, i just should listen to my sub for any like "rattling" noise right? i know when my dash speakers are at their max... if they go beyond it i think the spider starts hitting the surround or somethin.. it makes a rattling noise, so then i turn it down

anyway, what ALL do i need?

amp
sub
8g wiring kit (what should i look for included... should i pay extra for street wires brand?)

Try CD in but stopped/paused, your sub will have a static noise, like a hissing.

You need
-amp
-sub
-wire kit
-RCA's
-box/box building materials-and mounting hardware for box/amp

Most amp wiring kits will be complete (power wire, ground, ends, and remote wire) I like StreetWires because when you buy 8 gauge you get 8 gauge, unlike some kits I have seen in the past.

 

[baxtej44]

Try CD in but stopped/paused, your sub will have a static noise, like a hissing.

You need
-amp
-sub
-wire kit
-RCA's
-box/box building materials-and mounting hardware for box/amp

Most amp wiring kits will be complete (power wire, ground, ends, and remote wire) I like StreetWires because when you buy 8 gauge you get 8 gauge, unlike some kits I have seen in the past.

that's true, i saw a review of another wiring kit and they said they actually took away the insulation on the power wire, and it was closer to 12g wire with a bunch of insulation lol.

i'll splurge for street wires, although i can't find an 80+ amp on any of them
do i absolutely need an 80amp AFS fuse? I am looking on amazon.com and I am not sure which fuse will fit... The Power Wires wiring kit I bought only comes with a 60, and I am looking to find an 80-100... I found some, but not sure if it will the inline fuse holder on the wiring kit. Can anyone help out with that?

 

[flyingbrick]

that's true, i saw a review of another wiring kit and they said they actually took away the insulation on the power wire, and it was closer to 12g wire with a bunch of insulation lol.

i'll splurge for street wires, although i can't find an 80+ amp on any of them
do i absolutely need an 80amp AFS fuse? I am looking on amazon.com and I am not sure which fuse will fit... The Power Wires wiring kit I bought only comes with a 60, and I am looking to find an 80-100... I found some, but not sure if it will the inline fuse holder on the wiring kit. Can anyone help out with that?

AFS is the physical size of the fuse, so it will fit, and you need a minimum of 80 because your amp has 2x40A fuses, so you want at least the same.

 

[baxtej44]

AFS is the physical size of the fuse, so it will fit, and you need a minimum of 80 because your amp has 2x40A fuses, so you want at least the same.

found a pair of 150A AFS fuses for $9.99 on amazon (sticking with amazon since i got good prices on sub/amp and then i only pay shipping to one place, one transaction on card, just easier in general)


so i am pretty sure I am going to make my purchase tonight


sub
amp
8g wiring kit
150A AFS fuse (2;; keep one for extra?)


gonna get mdf, drywall screws, L-brackets (for securing to my cab) can i also use L brackets to brace inside? was going to use small blocks of wood in the corners too for bracing, wood glue (think we have some in the basement), silicon sealant (have some pretty sure too... regular caulking works?), what grit sand paper to sand the whole box after done? and was going to see if a local hardware shop has terminal cups.


do i need anything else?