Wrecked '87

[McWillies]

Recently came into possession of an 87 BII. It's a 2.9l manual trans 4x4. Everything from the windows to the door locks are manual as well. Seems to be the perfect base for a project. Only problem, it's been in a wreck. Front passenger side is pretty banged up. Current plans are a d35/8.8 swap and a lift. Gonna look for 4.10 axles. Haven't been to any junkyards yet, started the front end pulling today, didn't get a whole lot done though.

Here's a few pics of the damage.

 

[McWillies]

Made a little progress so far. Sway bar is off and one shock nut is off... I over estimated the power of an impact gun. Air isn't an option so I'm using an electric, but every bolt I come across has to be started by hand, which is annoying.

I have some questions that can hopefully be answered by some more experienced people on the forums.
1. Is a pitman arm puller the best route for removing a pitman arm (don't want to cut it out)?
2. Would 33 inch tires (or bigger?) fit with a 6 inch lift, and would 4.10 gears in a d35\8.8 be comfortable to drive with a 2.9l?
3. I know someone is going to tell me it's in other threads or the tech articles, but what all will I need to change with a 6in lift and the d35/8.8 and where (if on another vehicle) can I find those parts? Here's what I know I will need: drop pitman, driveshaft, extended radius arms, steering linkage (can I use the linkage from the d35?), coils, leaf springs, shocks. Obviously some of these parts would be included in a lift kit, I'll address that in the next question.
4. I would prefer to "Frankenstein" a lift rather than purchasing one (because they are very expensive), but I guess I should get others' opinions first. Which route would you take?

I think that's all of my questions, I'll just edit it in if I think of another. Have a job interview on Monday at the local paper mill. Having a job would really help with the progress of the build. Thanks for reading.

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[McWillies]

Went out today, got the other shock nut off. Also got the drive shaft separated from the diff, then got one radius arm bolt off. Gonna have an issue with the other radius arm, though. When it wrecked, the radius arm got pushed back and turned the cross member into a curly fry. Won't be able to get the bolt off so I'll have to cut it off. After that, I'll have the pitman arm and then the bolts above the diff that hold it to the bracket/frame (what are those called?). Thanks for reading.

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[BlackBII]

I have some questions that can hopefully be answered by some more experienced people on the forums.
1. Is a pitman arm puller the best route for removing a pitman arm (don't want to cut it out)?
2. Would 33 inch tires (or bigger?) fit with a 6 inch lift, and would 4.10 gears in a d35\8.8 be comfortable to drive with a 2.9l?
3. I know someone is going to tell me it's in other threads or the tech articles, but what all will I need to change with a 6in lift and the d35/8.8 and where (if on another vehicle) can I find those parts? Here's what I know I will need: drop pitman, driveshaft, extended radius arms, steering linkage (can I use the linkage from the d35?), coils, leaf springs, shocks. Obviously some of these parts would be included in a lift kit, I'll address that in the next question.
4. I would prefer to "Frankenstein" a lift rather than purchasing one (because they are very expensive), but I guess I should get others' opinions first. Which route would you take?

1. Pitman arm puller will work great. They can be rented from places like Autozone
2. 33's will fit with 6" of lift, however the front fenders may need some trimming to provide clearance when flexing the suspension. I would recommend 4.56 or even 4.88's if you are sticking with the 2.9
3. When you grab your Dana 35, grab the steering linkage and driveshaft. The Dana 35 truck will likely have a 1354, and if you have a 1350 you'll have to figure something out for the front drivehsaft
4. This depends on your budget, really. If you buy a complete Skyjacker kit with extended arms and leaf springs you'll be set. You could also piece together a kit and make your own extended radius arms. You'll also want to look into the Superrunner steering, Swing style steering or the FA600 pitman arm if you do go with 6" of lift.


Have you checked the frame for damage? It could be bent and will make getting everything to fit and align a nightmare.

 

[McWillies]

1. Pitman arm puller will work great. They can be rented from places like Autozone
2. 33's will fit with 6" of lift, however the front fenders may need some trimming to provide clearance when flexing the suspension. I would recommend 4.56 or even 4.88's if you are sticking with the 2.9
3. When you grab your Dana 35, grab the steering linkage and driveshaft. The Dana 35 truck will likely have a 1354, and if you have a 1350 you'll have to figure something out for the front drivehsaft
4. This depends on your budget, really. If you buy a complete Skyjacker kit with extended arms and leaf springs you'll be set. You could also piece together a kit and make your own extended radius arms


Have you checked the frame for damage? It could be bent and will make getting everything to fit and align a nightmare.

Ok, thanks a lot. I'll have to figure something out for the lift. From what I hear it's not a good idea to try regearing yourself, need a lot of special tools and whatnot. About how much would regearing for both axles cost me?

The frame is slightly bent, you can see it in one of the pictures from my original post. I know someone with experience fixing frame damage so he is going to help me with that.

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[Curious Hound]

Pitman arm puller is best route for the pitman arm. You don't want to damage the steering gearbox by prying or beating on it.

There is a lot of great info in the tech articles on this site regarding axle swaps, lifts, steering, etc.

I would also recommend PB Blaster. Seems to work better for me than WD-40.

 

[McWillies]

Pitman arm puller is best route for the pitman arm. You don't want to damage the steering gearbox by prying or beating on it.

There is a lot of great info in the tech articles on this site regarding axle swaps, lifts, steering, etc.

I would also recommend PB Blaster. Seems to work better for me than WD-40.

Ok, thanks. Been meaning to pick up some pb blaster, just keep forgetting.



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[McWillies]

Been in Georgia for the past week so I haven't gotten anything done. I have been thinking though. At first I was thinking 6 inches of lift, but the more I think about it, I'm not sure if that's what I want. Would you guys consider 6 inches too much for a dd BII? I won't be using it for a permanent dd as long as I have the 89, but after I get this one finished, I'd like to do some work on the 89 as well. Also, if the 89 did ever go out on me, I'd like to still be able to use the 87 as a DD. Also, what size tires could I fit with the 4 inches of lift?(I plan to do fender flares as well) So what are y'all thoughts on this?

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[McWillies]

Went out today and got a little more done... Or maybe the axle is completely out. Lol. Now that this POS is out, I can work on getting the d35. I'm still questioning whether I should regear. I've heard that it's really expensive. I'm gonna try and find a d35/8.8 with 4.10s, if I can't then regearing is gonna be a must.
Ended up cutting both radius arms, just made it easier and I'm not gonna need them anyways.

She's nekked.

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[BlackBII]

I'm still questioning whether I should regear. I've heard that it's really expensive. I'm gonna try and find a d35/8.8 with 4.10s, if I can't then regearing is gonna be a must.

Good luck. I've seen many 4.10 D28's in 2.3 4x4 trucks(Even mine had one), but I have yet to see a D35. They do exist, but I've never found one.

Regearing isn't that expensive. A set of gears is will be ~$150 an axle and if you take the pumpkin/axle to a shop they may charge you 2-3 hours of labor to install them, so around ~$250. This is of course dependent on where you live and how much shops charge, etc.

 

[McWillies]

Good luck. I've seen many 4.10 D28's in 2.3 4x4 trucks(Even mine had one), but I have yet to see a D35. They do exist, but I've never found one.

Regearing isn't that expensive. A set of gears is will be ~$150 an axle and if you take the pumpkin/axle to a shop they may charge you 2-3 hours of labor to install them, so around ~$250. This is of course dependent on where you live and how much shops charge, etc.

Wow really? I thought it was a lot more expensive... I guess most people drop the whole truck off and the shop has to pull the axle. Is that 2-3 hours per axle?

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[BlackBII]

Wow really? I thought it was a lot more expensive... I guess most people drop the whole truck off and the shop has to pull the axle. Is that 2-3 hours per axle?

Yeah if you drop the truck off and they have to pull the front diff it'll be a lot more, as pulling the front diff on a TTB is very time consuming.

If you drop off the axles they can throw it on a workbench and probably be done with both in about 4 hours, or 2 hours each, provided they know what they are doing.

I would call some local shops and see what they think it'll cost.

 

[McWillies]

Yeah if you drop the truck off and they have to pull the front diff it'll be a lot more, as pulling the front diff on a TTB is very time consuming.

If you drop off the axles they can throw it on a workbench and probably be done with both in about 4 hours, or 2 hours each, provided they know what they are doing.

I would call some local shops and see what they think it'll cost.

Ok, thanks

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[McWillies]

Dana 30 possibly... Thoughts?

 

[CUracing]

Did you get the frame straightened yet?