Wont start omg

[RonD]

Nope bought all new CAR battery wire and a new starter. Also picked up a 1000 cranking amp battery. AAAnd going to wire a ground from the starter relay to the engine block to the frame.

Starter relay isn't a ground point, it uses a ground to close the relay when key is is "start" position but not alot of amps there.

Battery "-" should be connected to the engine block, and then from there to the frame with the same size(gauge) wire.
You can add another ground wire from block ground to one of the Starter mounting bolts, again same size(gauge) of wire, this should give the starter a better ground point.

Battery "-" also needs smaller wire to Radiator support bracket for the head lights, and to the fender/body .

And engine should have a ground strap from head to the firewall.

 

[Lift]

Ok im getting really angry now, I replaced EVERYTHING in the starting system, all new wires a new battery a new starter and a new solenoid. WHAT DO I DO NOW???? it clicks once and doesnt do anything. I need to get this fixed now!!

 

[Lift]

Ok so now it goes chewwooo clunk chewwooo clunk chew woo clunk. Almost like its the wrong starter or something idk

 

[Lift]

Ok the fan was hitting the pulley so the clunk noise is gone, but it started right up two time in a row and now it cranks like a dead battery and the ground wires we isntalled started to smoke.

 

[Lift]

seems like the engine is hydro locking must be an issue with the carb?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I didn't have time before to properly respond. Did you try doing a voltage drop test? This will tell you exactly where you have a problem. It sounds like your ground wires are no good if they are starting to smoke, either too small a gauge or bad connection. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are the right size. I used a aught2 welding cable when I put the battery in the back of my race truck. I used a short piece going from battery -ve to frame, and from frame to motor to firewall making sure that the wire connections were soldered and the lugs and frame [all metal contacts] cleaned with emery cloth. I used di-electric grease on all connections. I used the same size wire for the battery positive, running the wire along the frame supported every foot to the factory junction.
I suspect you'll find a not tight connection somewhere, and the voltage drop test will find that for you.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[509lifted]

i bet if you drop to 0 gauge and made your grounds better that it will start or crank better i mean ppl with stock batt location swap to 0 gauge for better flow and you are running a good 4 foot more than stock location