No Start, wont run with ether, unless injectors disconnected

[Tgeddes]

Help Needed

Bought 1988 Bronco ii with a bad engine knock. Pulled engine, installed a remanufactured block. Had a crank no start for a while even when using ether, had fuel and spark. Tore down and rebuilt double checking valves and timing chain. Dialed in timing with a light and got a little whisper of a cough when using ether but still no start.

Over the past year during this project, every time it sat for a day or so and I would go to give it a try the first couple turns would give a little cough even without ether but then nothing.

Decided to disconnect the injector harnesses just for fun and try to run it on ether. It fired right up and even started to run on its own when supplied with ether.

I have 40 psi at the fuel rail and I pulled the rail with all injectors and harnesses attached, and turned the engine over to (pointing into a container) all injectors were pulsing and atomizing just fine.

I’m at a loss of where to go next

 

[Uncle Gump]

Did you check compression?

What does the spark look like? Will it jump an HEI spark tester? What plugs did you put in it?

Did you reuse factory injectors? Or replace them with the cheapest replacement on Amazon?

If it's been sitting fir awhile... does it have fresh fuel?

 

[Tgeddes]

Compression is good, spark looks nice and blue, haven’t used HEI tester yet, Autolite plugs.

I did reuse factory injectors because they worked well enough in the previous motor. I do have new ones on order, definitely not the cheapest but more middle of the road on price. Drained all the fuel and replaced it.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

When you try to start and it doesn't, have you pulled the plugs to see if they're wet?

 

[bobbywalter]

there is a harness or computer issue.

what codes are present?

 

[Tgeddes]

When you try to start and it doesn't, have you pulled the plugs to see if they're wet?

Plugs are wet

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Have you tried the "clear flooded engine" routine? Press gas peddle to floor and crank. This kills the injector pulse and is used to clear out excess fuel from combustion chambers. If the engine tries to start or makes any indication of firing then you have fuel getting in. One or more injectors are leaking.
Also make sure the cable isn't stretched, "clear flooded engine" may not work if its stretched. Look up "zip tie mod" if so.

 

[Tgeddes]

there is a harness or computer issue.

what codes are present?

I got the following codes.

21-Engine coolant temp out of self test range

23-Throttle Position out of self test range

24-Air change temp out of self test range

89-Clutch converter override circuit failure

86-Shift solenoid circuit failure

14-PIP circuit failure

22-MAP out of self test range

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I got the following codes.

21-Engine coolant temp out of self test range

23-Throttle Position out of self test range

24-Air change temp out of self test range

89-Clutch converter override circuit failure

86-Shift solenoid circuit failure

14-PIP circuit failure

22-MAP out of self test range

This is getting over my pay grade, but I would double check all connections on the above sensors.
Some sensors are grounded thru the threads and you have to make sure that Teflon tape isn't ruining a good ground. Sensors with one wire are grounded thru threads.

Hopefully someone with better understanding of the system will chime in.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Looks like everything that gets the 5 volt Vref is throwing codes.

Can you test to see if you're getting 5 volts at those sensors?

 

[Tgeddes]

Looks like everything that gets the 5 volt Vref is throwing codes.

Can you test to see if you're getting 5 volts at those sensors?

When I get a minute I’ll take a multimeter and check

 

[Uncle Gump]

When I get a minute I’ll take a multimeter and check

You did have everything connected when you checked.... right?

 

[Tgeddes]

Have you tried the "clear flooded engine" routine? Press gas peddle to floor and crank. This kills the injector pulse and is used to clear out excess fuel from combustion chambers. If the engine tries to start or makes any indication of firing then you have fuel getting in. One or more injectors are leaking.
Also make sure the cable isn't stretched, "clear flooded engine" may not work if its stretched. Look up "zip tie mod" if so.

Had a second so I tried the “clear flood test” and it started to fire. Should I just replace all 6 injectors? Or is it not necessarily a problem with injectors?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Make sure that when the peddle is fully depressed that the butterfly valve is fully open. If it isn't then the test won't work. That is where the zip tie mod helps.

 

[Tgeddes]

Alright I still haven’t figured it out. But just to recap.
6 new injectors, all tested and firing

39 psi at the rail

New pump relay(audible click when key turned on)

Timed to 10* BTDC with spout removed

Spark on all 6 plugs

No fuel in FPR vacuum hose

Both injector banks “non red” wire have 12volts

Only code coming back is #89

It will not fire up unless pump relay is disconnected. It will crank and cough and sputter, add in some ether and it will not change anything until I disconnect the pump relay( more specifically pulling the tan/green wire) once disconnected it fires right up depending on how much fuel was dumped into the cylinders off the previous cranks.

I’ve been chasing wires and testing all of them and it seems that everything is how it should be so far. I’ve switched out multiple relays off of spare harness I have and even switched out the EEC with a spare I have. Any ideas out there?