Wont start and Stutters

[kimcrwbr1]

If you have doubts on the wires just change them with some good low resistance wires autolites work just fine. A new set of plugs autolite single platinum a cap and rotor and PCV then you dont have to question those items. Have you capped off the egr valve ports with a plate. Just give it a good tune up first turn the idle air out three turns and then time it at 10 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnected. Until you do these things in order nothing can be done here. Your just trying to fix it without doing anything always change the PCV when you change the plugs.

 

[Twister]

If you have doubts on the wires just change them with some good low resistance wires autolites work just fine. A new set of plugs autolite single platinum a cap and rotor and PCV then you dont have to question those items. Have you capped off the egr valve ports with a plate. Just give it a good tune up first turn the idle air out three turns and then time it at 10 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnected. Until you do these things in order nothing can be done here. Your just trying to fix it without doing anything always change the PCV when you change the plugs.

Well i am going to be changing the plugs and wire tomorrow. Ill check back with what i find out. When i capped off the EGR i used a new gasket.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

plugs, wires, cap and rotor, PCV, eliminate those variables when beginning any diagnostic. confirm you have spark using the timing light put it on the coil wire and shine it on something dark while you cranking on it if it flashes steady shine it on the marks you can still time it off the coil wire also but put it on the #1 plug and see if it is in time even if it dont start. Then you know the spark is good and it is either vacuum or fuel.

 

[Twister]

plugs, wires, cap and rotor, PCV, eliminate those variables when beginning any diagnostic. confirm you have spark using the timing light put it on the coil wire and shine it on something dark while you cranking on it if it flashes steady shine it on the marks you can still time it off the coil wire also but put it on the #1 plug and see if it is in time even if it dont start. Then you know the spark is good and it is either vacuum or fuel.

Well i didn't see this before i went to the parts store. I got new motorcraft plugs and the store brand wires. It didn't do anything at first but i eventually got it to start up. It ran for a bit and i tried re hooking up the vacuum advance but it died. I got it to start again and it ran for about 20 minutes, while running it would idle fine but every 20 sec it would act like it was out of gas. It eventually died so i put more gas in and it would not crank because the battery was dieing.

Also when trying to start the truck it will puff smoke out the top of the carburetor.

So can a dieing battery cause the truck to not fire and run right?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It wouldnt hurt to have a fully charged battery it will ruin the alternator or regulator to charge a real low or dead battery. So you know it runs and did you confirm the timing was locked in at 10 degrees. If you dont have a timing light get one fully charge the battery. Are the idle air screws out three turn from the lightly seated position. Once you confirm the timing is locked in then we can go from there. You cannot get it right without a light.

 

[Twister]

It wouldnt hurt to have a fully charged battery it will ruin the alternator or regulator to charge a real low or dead battery. So you know it runs and did you confirm the timing was locked in at 10 degrees. If you dont have a timing light get one fully charge the battery. Are the idle air screws out three turn from the lightly seated position. Once you confirm the timing is locked in then we can go from there. You cannot get it right without a light.

I have confirmed timing. It is exactly at 12* (which is where i set it when i did the conversion) with the vacuum advance plugged. I forgot to reseat the screw, i will try that and see if it helps.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Ok whatever your on your own you are gonna need to get someone to show you or do it for you. Your not willing to listen and do as asked then I can`t help you. GL

 

[Twister]

Ok whatever your on your own you are gonna need to get someone to show you or do it for you. Your not willing to listen and do as asked then I can`t help you. GL

Look your smart ass comments are going to get my car to run, i don't know what bug crawled up your ass but figure it out. I appreciate you help with my problems but getting mad a kid because he wont run out and do what you say on a whim is ridiculous.

The timing is set at 12* and it is going to stay their, because it runs better at 12* then it did at 10*. I reset the screws at 3 turns from lightly seat, it helped a bit but didn't fix the problem. Now when i crank it it will chug and puff smoke out the carb. So it is doing more than it was but not enough to start.

 

[Twister]

Well idk if I will still get help here but I'll try anyway. I replaced the cap and rotor but that didn't help. I determined I have spark from the coil, but I am not getting spark from the dizzy.

 

[adsm08]

How did you confirm spark from the coil? How did you confirm no spark out of the cap? How did you confirm timing?

A timing light won't fire without at least a little spark along the plug wire.

If you know the coil is firing but you aren't getting anything out of the cap, hook it all up, grab the coil wire, and have someone crank the engine. If you get shocked, you need new wires.

Smoke out the carb is a sign of backfire though. And backfire is a timing issue.

 

[Twister]

How did you confirm spark from the coil? How did you confirm no spark out of the cap? How did you confirm timing?

A timing light won't fire without at least a little spark along the plug wire.

If you know the coil is firing but you aren't getting anything out of the cap, hook it all up, grab the coil wire, and have someone crank the engine. If you get shocked, you need new wires.

Smoke out the carb is a sign of backfire though. And backfire is a timing issue.

To confirm spark from the coil, i took the wire off the dizzy, stuck a spare spark plug in it and layed it next to a ground. I cranked it while someone watched it and it shot blue sparks. I did the same thing testing for spark from the dizzy, but i got not blue spark from the dizzy.

I confirmed timing when this started because i could get it started i i cranked it for a bit, now i cant get it to start at all.

So far i have replaced, plugs, wires, cap and rotor and have had no luck.

Also I have replaced the fuel filter and bought a carb kit for the carb.

 

[Twister]

Well i made some progress today. I got it to start by jumping it with my friends escape, resetting the mixture screws to 3 turns from lightly seated and with some starting fluid. The truck seemed to idle a lot better than before. I would drive down the street with its own power, but would still stutter slightly above 15 mph.

 

[Twister]

Also, it seems i can only get it to start by jumping it and using starter fluid.

 

[Twister]

OK this car is not making any sense. When i can get it started it idles great, i tried to take it out of timing and reset it to 12* BTDC and it doesnt like to be at 12* any more. So i set it higher, tightened it down and reattached the vacuum advance. While driving it down the street it seems like it is starving for fuel, but when trying to get it to start it will puff smoke out the carb like it is getting to much fuel

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Dunno if you have found this, but I did a quick search and found it.

http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Duraspark_-_Troubleshooting

It is a shot in the dark, but I found this interesting:

ENGINE OPERATES WELL AT IDLE BUT NOT WHEN RPM'S ARE INCREASED

Fig. 191.Remove the distributor cap and inspect for the presence of the roll pin holding the armature on the distributor shaft. If the roll pin is missing, the armature may have rotated out of position relative to the distributor shaft causing timing to be out of phase.