wire harness issue 95 motor in a 93

[smokeyjoe]

howdy, my engine blew and i was going to put a 302 in it but found a 4.0 from a 95 ranger, problem is mines a 93 4.0 and when i got the new engine home i was checking them both out and theres a real big wire plug thats about 2"x2" just under the intake on the drivers side of the engine on the new motor and the one in my truck either doesnt have one or its very well hidden. the closest thing to it i can find on my truck is 2 smaller connectors side by side on the drivers side wheel well, no idea what to do lol im new to efi and my truck has to be running by friday so im in quite the bind....

 

[AllanD]

STRIP all the wires off the '95 engine and put your wiring AND sensors on it.

You can also remove the EGR valve, plug the O-ring port in the plastic intake manifold
(the plastic intake flows just a little better) and swap over the drivers side exhaust manifold.

Lastly remove the cam position sensor and replace it with the oil pump drive from your 1993.

It isn't only that the wiring connectors on the engine are different, the
1995 is an EEC5 SEFI engine w/EGR, your 1993 is an EEC4 Non-EGR
"Batch fire" engine.

The ONLY electrical thing(s) on the the engine that are the same from
1993 to 1995 are the six fuel injectors, those you can leave alone.

the wire harness is more easily removed if you take the upper intake off
the engine, atleast temporarily....

You can if you prefer use your aluminum upper intake, you'll just need to
add a few washers on the studs so the nuts don't bottom on the longer
studs for the plastic upper intake.

AD

 

[smokeyjoe]

thankyou!!! wheres the cam positioning sensor located?

 

[smokeyjoe]

alrighty everythings dissconnected and ready to come out EXCEPT for the fuel lines, is there any specail lil tricks i dont know about? cuz the quick disconnect tool isnt working very good, lol usually my engine swaps consist of chopping everything off and slapping in a bigger engine thats "built" and putting a carb on it so this is a bit different from what im used to

 

[AllanD]

This depends on WHICH fuel line connection you are fighting with.

I doubt that you are having a problem with the threaded connections
to the fuel pressure regulator (return line) or the threaded connection
directly to the fuel rail (the feed line)

So I must assume that you are dealing with the spring lock connectors
at the frame end of the braided fuel lines....

they require a special spring lock connector tool to release
The OTC tools are made of plastic and "clamshell" around the coupler.

This only releases the spring the "sleeve" portion of the coupler
tends to stick on the TWO o-rings in the male half of the coupler.

So I recommend rotating the coupler halves relative to one another
before attmpting to release the spring and pull them apart.

AD

 

[smokeyjoe]

well i was able to get the fuel lines disconnected required alot of penetrating lube but they came out, new problem now, trying to swap everything over off my '93 motor to the '95, got everything swapped over except the cam positioning senser, it wont come out of the '95 motor, it slid right out of the old motor but on the new one its putting up a fight, is there some sort of specail tool to remove it on the '95?

on the old motor all it took was a 10 mil and it slid right out like a distributer would, lol and its the one thing holding me back from dropping that engine in tonight

 

[AllanD]

As for the cam position sensor you can simply inore it.

The drive rarely fails it's the electronic sensot on top that goes bad.

And if you use a 1993 wiring harness it's about at important as
the pecker on a steer, it's there but no longer connected to anything...

AD

 

[smokeyjoe]

was able to get that out, lol yeah i realized that after i got it out, but the new motor is in and it is running, but it idles around 2000, i checked all the vacume lines and theyr all hooked up, theres no intake leaks, dunno whats causing it?

 

[Ranger44]

ETC

Engine Temp Coolant sensor. Could be old w/ high resistance and your PCM thinks it's freezing balls.

When I swap an engine, or do extensive engine work ( like replacing heads) any cheap sensor get replaced. Otherwise they seem to cause on to chase their tail trying to find out what's wrong.

Btw, IIRC, the ETC is on the front of the lower intake manifold.

 

[smokeyjoe]

fingered that part out , the bracket that holds the throttle cable in place got tweeked just enough to pull on the throttle a little bit.

how ever there is a new problem, it over heats in a hurry, maybe 2 miles max and its already way past what im comfortable running at, not quite to the red but very close (im getting a real gauge for it soon that dummy gauge drives me nuts)

i dont know if its just the way that engine is or what, my old motor always ran alittle on the warm side but never this hot. im gonna try replacing the thermostat and see what that does

 

[Ranger44]

Thermostat stucK?

 

[smokeyjoe]

could be? im not sure, once it gets up there the gauge doesnt move too much. would the fan shroud make that much of a difference? i was pissed at the time so i didnt put it back on, maybe that would do it

 

[Ranger44]

Wouldn't be the clutch, If it goes bad....it spins full speed all the time.

I would pull the thermostat and give it a cooling system flush. Flush all that crap outa there. Then give it some fresh coolant.

 

[smokeyjoe]

i meant the fan shroud that goes on the radiator and surrounds the fan and directs the air threw the radiator, would that make a difference? yeah il try pulling the thermostat out and flushing it, thanks

lol and my starter is on the fritz, the battery has full charge but it only turns the engine over when i hook up the car charger, otherwise it just clicks. i did get conufsed with which wire goes where when i put it back on so its probly my wiring. ive got the big cable on the top stud, then theres one from the solinoid on the fender that goes to the bottom stud and a 3rd smaller wire from the battery on the smaller stud but when the 3rd wire is hooked up itl turn the engine over and it wont disengauge

 

[Ranger44]

Yeah...the shroud can make a difference in cooling capacity.