Will these pistons fit in '88 Mustang 2.3l?

[Kenneth S]

In 95 Ford changed the cam, and followers to a narrower design so you will need to find the cam, and followers from the 1989 - 1994 2.3's. The 2.3 really needs help in the cylinder head to make power, bigger valves, 7 degree valve locks, chrome moly retainers, and dual valve springs so it rev without floating the valves. The head will need to be machined for the bigger valves, and the dual valve springs, any good machine shop that does race engines should have no problems doing the needed work. All that should keep the valve train happy. When the engine is done you should be able to surprise some people with it.

 

[ShotnVA777]

In 95 Ford changed the cam, and followers to a narrower design so you will need to find the cam, and followers from the 1989 - 1994 2.3's. The 2.3 really needs help in the cylinder head to make power, bigger valves, 7 degree valve locks, chrome moly retainers, and dual valve springs so it rev without floating the valves. The head will need to be machined for the bigger valves, and the dual valve springs, any good machine shop that does race engines should have no problems doing the needed work. All that should keep the valve train happy. When the engine is done you should be able to surprise some people with it.

So... I am pretty confident in my Machine Shop, "Apple Machine Shop", as they helped build my dad's 350 into a MONSTER - But that's a whole 'nother beast!

BLOCK PARTS LIST
- Sealed Power 37P30 - Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons
- ARP 151-6002 - ARP High Performance Series Connecting Rod Bolt Kits
- ARP 151-4702 - ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Stud Kits
- Cometic C5369-040 - Cometic Head Gaskets

^^^ HAVE ALL LINKS TO THESE PARTS!

HEAD PARTS LIST
- Cam, and followers from a 1989 - 1994 2.3L Ford (Mustang or Ranger??
- "NEEDHP" Ford 2.3 Round Tooth Pulley Conversion Kit (found on own)
- Bigger valves (No clue as to which size/ones I'll need!)
- 7 degree valve locks (Got me again! Lol)
- Chrome Moly retainers (Know what retainers are, no clue where to buy!)
- Dual valve springs so it revs, without floating the valves (Heard of this, but yet again, no idea where to order!)
- The head will need to be machined for the bigger valves and the dual valve springs (im confident in my machine shop!)

HAVE 0 LINKS FOR THESE PARTS ^^^ OTHER than the pulley conversion kit!

"All that should keep the valve train happy. When the engine is done you should be able to surprise some people with it!" - THAT'S AWESOME! You're the man!

SO THAT'S IT? THAT'S MY PART(S) LIST?! EVERYTHING I SHOULD NEED?! I know I'm picking your brain to pieces and have been since I joined this site. But you seem to know your stuff and I LIKE THAT! More than "liking it", I'm HIGHLY appreciative for all the information!!!

Thank you very much for helping "build" my LIMA!!!! Chachachia!

Is there anyway you could link those head parts? I know I'm asking A LOT, but you're the ONLY one I trust to point me in the RIGHT direction!

I'm praying I'll surprise myself!!!! Haha!

Should I BUY all these parts FIRST or are you saying if I go in there and say I want ALL of that AND have the cam from a 89-94 Mustang + ALL the other parts I've got in my "bin", that it would be cheaper for THEM to get it all?

I would think me buying all the parts and then having THEM build it would be the way to go - but i could be wrong!

They'll know what I'm saying? And if not, I suppose take it to another shop????

 

[Kenneth S]

HEAD PARTS LIST
- Cam, and followers from a 1989 - 1994 2.3L Ford (Mustang or Ranger) PickNPull

Bo-Port has a nice kit for everything below http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=36
- Bigger valves
- Valve locks
- Chrome Moly retainers
- Dual valve springs


If the machine shop is any good they should know what you are saying if they machine/build racing engines (ask if they ever built any 2.3's for racing, if they haven't they should be able to do it if they are any good, if not you may want to call around and find a reputable machine shop that has).

 

[ShotnVA777]

HEAD PARTS LIST
- Cam, and followers from a 1989 - 1994 2.3L Ford (Mustang or Ranger) PickNPull

Bo-Port has a nice kit for everything below http://www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=36
- Bigger valves
- Valve locks
- Chrome Moly retainers
- Dual valve springs


If the machine shop is any good they should know what you are saying if they machine/build racing engines (ask if they ever built any 2.3's for racing, if they haven't they should be able to do it if they are any good, if not you may want to call around and find a reputable machine shop that has).

Absolutely sir... Thank you VERY much for that kit!!!

Is the roundtooth adjustable sprockets a good idea? Along with the underdrive pulleys from NEED HP??

 

[Kenneth S]

The belt for the round tooth is supposed to be stronger than the old square tooth. The only bad thing about underdrive pulleys is if you have a lot of electrical load like with the headlights on the headlights will dim when the engine is a idle. I never noticed any real difference in power with underdrive pulleys.

 

[ShotnVA777]

The belt for the round tooth is supposed to be stronger than the old square tooth. The only bad thing about underdrive pulleys is if you have a lot of electrical load like with the headlights on the headlights will dim when the engine is a idle. I never noticed any real difference in power with underdrive pulleys.

No UD pulleys it is.... But I'm grabbing the round tooth setup!

 

[Mikel89us]

In 95 Ford changed the cam, and followers to a narrower design so you will need to find the cam, and followers from the 1989 - 1994 2.3's. The 2.3 really needs help in the cylinder head to make power, bigger valves, 7 degree valve locks, chrome moly retainers, and dual valve springs so it rev without floating the valves. The head will need to be machined for the bigger valves, and the dual valve springs, any good machine shop that does race engines should have no problems doing the needed work. All that should keep the valve train happy. When the engine is done you should be able to surprise some people with it.

You are right and wrong, the roller 2.3 cams and 2.5 cams, are the same. They did change the rockers, as well as moving the lifter closer to the centerline of the cam, that is how they changed the lift profile. They use almost identical cams.

 

[ShotnVA777]

You are right and wrong, the roller 2.3 cams and 2.5 cams, are the same. They did change the rockers, as well as moving the lifter closer to the centerline of the cam, that is how they changed the lift profile. They use almost identical cams.

Hey bud.... What do you mean by this? That my '97 Ranger Cam would work? Or the stock '88 'Stang Cam???

Or are you agreeing w/ what cam the man told me to get?

What cam would you rock?

Speaking of CAMS, the local "Raceway Gas Station" is going to LOVE ME, coming in there to fill up my truck EVERY WEEK w/ 110 octane CAM2! LOL!

Hey... Atleast I'll SMELL COOL!

 

[Mikel89us]

Your stock cam will work, all the roller cams are the same grind. The stang cam is almost the same but it should be a flat tappet cam. It also would work, bit high mileage wear can be an issue with them.

 

[ShotnVA777]

Your stock cam will work, all the roller cams are the same grind. The stang cam is almost the same but it should be a flat tappet cam. It also would work, bit high mileage wear can be an issue with them.

About 100k on the motor I'm building ('88 Stang) OUT of the truck. The trucks '97 2.3 has 190k....

Which should I go wwith? I always thought the "newer" model 2.3's had the "better" of the cam??

 

[ShotnVA777]

This seems to be the "bee's knees" when it comes to a "hotter cam"...

"The hot setup is to use a 95+ Rocker Arm (1.86" ratio) with a 89-94 Roller Cam (0.2381" lobe lift). This will give you a valve lift of 0.443" which is pretty dam hot! If you have an 89-94 2.3L, you will have to widen the valve stem ends (0.2750") of the 95+ rockers to fit the 0.343" valve stems"

 

[Mikel89us]

That guy I believe I already posted telling him he was wrong. The valve lift he claims is impossible, because he claims it happens by changing to the newer rockers, but it does not work. The lifter is in a different place and that's where the newer motors get higher lift.

 

[ShotnVA777]

That guy I believe I already posted telling him he was wrong. The valve lift he claims is impossible, because he claims it happens by changing to the newer rockers, but it does not work. The lifter is in a different place and that's where the newer motors get higher lift.

Gotcha... I'm just guna BUY a cam from my local P&P if it's a stock CAM I need...

... or whichever STREET cam (something DRIVEABLE, EVERY DAY!) that I could JUST order and it be the BEST overall.

I'm thinking about sticking to plan 1, posted by my other buddy. Unless you got something BETTER which is more specific!

BTW - THANKS TON FOR ALL THE INFO THUS FAR! My pop's and I are EXTREMELY excited about having a GOOD parts list and being able to start working on her and taking blocks here, heads there... Lol

Me and my dad JUST got this inspected today (IT PASSED! YAY! LOL... 1980 V6 Chevy Camaro w/ 4 bolt main 350, bored over .030, MASSIVE cam - but STILL very driveavle. Fully built, shes a beast!
Pop's gotta grab a new set of rims though, because he ROAST those 15x6/7's! They're pretty much the rim I need. Maybe I'll grab them from him?

 

[Road Angels]

bo-port.com enough said

 

[ShotnVA777]

bo-port.com enough said

For a Cam???