Will these pistons fit in '88 Mustang 2.3l?

[ShotnVA777]

I have not heard good things about the Keith Black hypers. Their forged seem ko, but I've heard many times of the top of the piston coming apart.

Here's the sealed power .030" over hypers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h537p30/overview/make/ford


I've never run hypers, in any engine I build that will be raced, I use forged (but that's just me). You can ask 10 different engine builders for piston recommendations, and they usually won't all be the same. Decisions, decisions, decisions!

Well thank you sir.... These will be the EXACT pistons that I'm about to order RIGHT NOW!

As long a) they're .030 over and in ALL HONESTY, I'm just taking your word for it! Lol... NO BS!

I told y'all, I'm just the guinea pig, so I'm rolling with these, then its ON TO THE NEXT PIECE OF THE PUZZLE!

*I'M ASSUMING THESE COME WITH ALL THE RINGS AND SUCH THAT I'LL NEED?!*

SO, with that said, on the '88 Block and head... What should I get NEXT?

The block will be bored .030 over, after I take it apart and have it ready for the machine shop (aka... AFTER I RECIEVE THE PISTONS!) THEN I'll have it (THE BLOCK) all put together with the new pistons and old rods/crank (i guess?) Like I said, I have NO IDEA, but i will after THIS BUILD!

Can i use all the old rods and everything or what? YALL know what I'm trying to achieve, hopefully, by NOW! Lol! I KNOW what I'm trying to achieve, I'm just NOT sure how to go about doing it!

Anything else needed for the block? Because I was thinking of moving to head parts!

 

[Mikel89us]

You need to buy rings, use the old rods, and send the pistons with the block tomake sure the machinist can make sure he does the correct bore.

 

[ShotnVA777]

You need to buy rings, use the old rods, and send the pistons with the block tomake sure the machinist can make sure he does the correct bore.

Ok... I ordered the pistons already. Recommended rings for a .030 bore please?

A LINK, preferably! As I have no ides what to look for would be grateful on this Thanksgiving Day!

I did know, however, to bring the pistons with me w/ the block, to have it bored out!

WHAT SHOULD I ORDER NEXT? AND IS THERE ANYTHING THE MACHINIST CAN DO TO MAKE THE RODS STRONGER?

I was thinking to start looking at the head! Anything else needed for the block? I was going to install a better oil pickup after the rebuild (POSSIBLY an oil cooler) But is there anything else on the BLOCK that I'll need? Other than the rings, obviously lol..

Which I pray someone can link for me!

I should've named this thread "The Guinea Pig Build"! Lol!

 

[Mikel89us]

The rods will hold over 400 hp stock, you don't need to add strength

 

[ShotnVA777]

The rods will hold over 400 hp stock, you don't need to add strength

Nice... Good on the crank and old accessories as well? New rear main seal or anything?

I just want to make sure I have EVERYTHING needed for the block, before I move onto the head!

What should be done to the head? If nothing else is 100%;NEEDED for the block??3

 

[Kenneth S]

Get a complete engine rebuild gasket kit, your machine shop can usually get the complete gasket set, piston rings, and all the bearings at a good price, . If you can spare a few extra $$ have the rods magnifluxed to check for cracks, replace the stock rod bolts with ARP rod bolts, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-151-6002/overview/make/ford then have the big end of the rods resized after the new rod bolts are put in (the stock connecting rod bolts are usually the weakest part of stock connecting rods).

 

[ShotnVA777]

Get a complete engine rebuild gasket kit, your machine shop can usually get the complete gasket set, piston rings, and all the bearings at a good price, . If you can spare a few extra $$ have the rods magnifluxed to check for cracks, replace the stock rod bolts with ARP rod bolts, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-151-6002/overview/make/ford then have the big end of the rods resized after the new rod bolts are put in (the stock connecting rod bolts are usually the weakest part of stock connecting rods).

Thank you... N that should finish up the block, I'll be using ARP head bolts/studs as well.

So with the block taken care of, what's next for this 2.3L Frankenstein?

 

[ShotnVA777]

WELL... I GOT ME A LITTLE SHOPPING LIST FOR THE BLOCK! What y'all think?!

FELPRO 1035 Head Gasket
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1035/applications/year/1988

ARP High Performance Series Connecting Rod Bolt Kits
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/arp-151-6002/overview/make/ford

Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h537p30/overview/make/ford

ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Stud Kits
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/arp-151-4702

And whatever my machinist recommends for a high revving, high compression engine!

I'm REALLY wanting to start ordering head parts! So I can start stripping it down!

 

[ShotnVA777]

WHATS UP GUYS!?

Use me as your Guinea Pig and let me know what else I need!!!

 

[Kenneth S]

You could also add ARP main studs, they will help hold the bottom end together better. Once you get the block bored, and honed for the new pistons put the crank, and one rod and piston in one of the bores, get the piston at top dead center then measure how far down the top of the piston is down in the hole. Once you find the distance, take it back apart have have the block decked that amount, you will more compression that way which means you won't have to have the head milled as much to get the compression ratio you want.

You can also get this head gasket http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c5369-040/overview/make/ford It has a smaller bore dia than the Fel-Pro head gasket does that will allow you to mill down less of the head to get the compression ratio you want. If you were not to deck the block, and use the Fel-Pro gasket you would have to have the head milled a lot more to get the compression you want. You can only mill a head so far before it starts to weaken it, then it will blow the head gasket a lot easier.

 

[ShotnVA777]

You could also add ARP main studs, they will help hold the bottom end together better. Once you get the block bored, and honed for the new pistons put the crank, and one rod and piston in one of the bores, get the piston at top dead center then measure how far down the top of the piston is down in the hole. Once you find the distance, take it back apart have have the block decked that amount, you will more compression that way which means you won't have to have the head milled as much to get the compression ratio you want.

You can also get this head gasket http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c5369-040/overview/make/ford It has a smaller bore dia than the Fel-Pro head gasket does that will allow you to mill down less of the head to get the compression ratio you want. If you were not to deck the block, and use the Fel-Pro gasket you would have to have the head milled a lot more to get the compression you want. You can only mill a head so far before it starts to weaken it, then it will blow the head gasket a lot easier.

Thanks for ttime" Now couldn't I just tell them to deck the head anyways, before they assemble it all (or on the same trip to the shop)?

Reason I ask, I would think it would be cheaper, since I'm already getting it bored and honed at the "same time".

How much are those ARP Main Bolts? And are they NEEDED for what I'm doing?? If so, shoots the link I'm hoping by the end of this - I can throw up a NICE parts list, have y'all look it over and have my machine shop GET TO BUSINESS!

I put that headgasket into my "parts bin" bookmarks folder, deleted the Fel Pro. I'm sticking to what Y'ALL say! The decking of the block makes COMPLETE sense though, then, maybe I won't have to weaken the head by milling it down .100"! I'm thinking about half that now...

NOW should I move onto the head?

 

[Kenneth S]

You can run stock main bolts, and be ok, but if it were me I'd get the main studs http://store.esslingeracing.com/cart/main_studs-details.aspx

When I build an engine I try to save money where I can (I'm a cheapskate), but there are some things that I won't compromise on, and will spend the $$ on it (depending on what the engine will be mainly used for). Some may think you don't need main studs thinking it's overkill, unnecessary, etc, I call it playing it safe especially when comes to an engine that will be ran hard. If it were just a daily driver engine an occasional race I'd stick with main bolts.

 

[ShotnVA777]

You can run stock main bolts, and be ok, but if it were me I'd get the main studs http://store.esslingeracing.com/cart/main_studs-details.aspx

When I build an engine I try to save money where I can (I'm a cheapskate), but there are some things that I won't compromise on, and will spend the $$ on it (depending on what the engine will be mainly used for). Some may think you don't need main studs thinking it's overkill, unnecessary, etc, I call it playing it safe especially when comes to an engine that will be ran hard. If it were just a daily driver engine an occasional race I'd stick with main bolts.

I plan it to just be a daily driver... But she'll see the track occasionally. That link just took me to Esslinger's main site, nothing more.

What cam should I run? That's streetable but still won't compromise my power goals? What about springs? Valves? Retainers? Etc. ..?

I think I've pretty much got me a decent list on the block, (you said i should be ok on the main BOLTS correct? The studs shouldn't be needed?? Or did I read that wrong? Haha. ..

I'd LOVE to know whats next though!!! I love the learning experience!

I'm TRYING to keep it as cheap as POSSIBLE, but I don't want to cut the WRONG corner and then compromise my engine like a dumb@$$! Hence why I've asked SO MANY questions! Lol

This is fun - Haha! Probablly NOT to y'all though, as I'm picking yall's brains APART to try to get the most power - the first time!

 

[Kenneth S]

You should be fine with main bolts for a DD plus a little racing on occasion. As far as a camshaft if you are going to be running a roller cam there surprisingly isn't much out there, they are either turbo grinds, or big lift race only cams so you will probably wind up running a turbo grind cam which would be ok to run without a turbo Like an Esslinger E2277Turbo camshaft, or you could try the stock Ranger roller cam to start out with (the stock head limits how much valve lift you can run before you have to do some serious work to the head to run more lift). Also you will need their adjustable cam gear to get the cam degreed in right.

 

[ShotnVA777]

You should be fine with main bolts for a DD plus a little racing on occasion. As far as a camshaft if you are going to be running a roller cam there surprisingly isn't much out there, they are either turbo grinds, or big lift race only cams so you will probably wind up running a turbo grind cam which would be ok to run without a turbo Like an Esslinger E2277Turbo camshaft, or you could try the stock Ranger roller cam to start out with (the stock head limits how much valve lift you can run before you have to do some serious work to the head to run more lift). Also you will need their adjustable cam gear to get the cam degreed in right.

Ill loom into that Esslinger Turbo Cam, but I ALSO have the cam from the 97, 8 plug motor,in my truck NOW! Nonetheless, ill most definitly be running some brand of Adjustable Cam Gear. Probably Esslinger as well!

So, cam SOMEWHAT taken care of, what about ANYTHING ELSE for the head?? Springz? Retainers? Different (bigger?) Valves???

I just don't want to bend a valve or something INSANE, after I get the motor together! Lol!

If I can run all stuck stuff, than WONDERFUL! If NOT though (what I'm assuming), what and where at? Lol! You have NO IDEA how much your helping!