Which rear shock should I use?

[Snal]

here's my current rear setup: flipped stock shackle and hanger with expo leafs and blocks. I don't like it but it's what I have. I have 33's under it so I can't take out the blocks yet cuz it's sitting between 0-1" lift. I've read we can fit a 10" travel shock underneath the bed with stock mounts which measure 26"-16" (extended to compressed). I had bilstein 5100 shocks that were fit for 4" lift (which I used to have) and they measured 26"-16" but they were smashed when I lowered it and rode extremely rough. I don't know anything about valving but I imagine this is a valving issue. I want to get some 2.0's that are the same length to get 10" of travel but will I run into the same rough issue? it really felt like in place of shocks was a metal rod, it was bad. it sits eye to eye at 20" between mounts so it will have 4" in and 6" out so I imagine it needs to be valved to sit at 20" (however I have no idea what I'm talking about) can I get 2.0's with 10" travel and be ok? they'll fit I know that but do they need to be valved to ride better?

 

[brinker88]

I'd get bump stops before anything. Bump the suspension at about 1.5"-2" before the shock bottoms out. That'll give the bumpstop enough room to compress.

Then look into Rancho RS9000XLs or Bilstein 5100s.

You need to measure your shock length at full droop then at full stuff. That will tell you how long your shock needs to be and where to mount it at.

 

[Snal]

I've already got bilstein 5100's and I measured everything already. bumpstops and limits straps are further down the road I'm only asking about 2.0 shocks and valving. Like I said I already measured full droop and stuff and it goes from 26"-16" which is the same measurement of the 5100's, however, I think the 5100's are valved to sit at 24" and stock level sits at 20" which would explain the rough ride. I already know that 2.0x10 are 26"-16" which is exactly what I need. I just want to know about valving them. how do they come stock and will I need to valve them?

 

[Ranger#1]

Look into swayaways they have the shortest collapsed lengths but I'd I were you just buy a 2.5 x 10 and make it fit

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Snal]

I would get 2.5's but I'm REALLY tight on cash. and I don't mind if they're reservoir or not because they're going in stock location until I can afford a bed cage and spring plates with shock tabs. I'm only going with 2.0s in the meantime because they're good offroad compared to a regular air shock

 

[Uncle JuJu]

From what I know...

The shocks in the truck are to long and bottoming out! When I first got my truck the rear shocks were compressing the springs 3/4" at ride height!! That was a rough ride..

The 5100's are a single rate valve. Meaning that the should compress at a constant rate from top to bottom, and decompress in the same manner. And I also believe the compression / decompression rates to be the same.

The advantage of the 2.0's would be that you can change the rate (speed) of shaft travel. To get multiple rates in a single shock is where By- Pass Shocks come into play. If you have the tools you can revalve / rebuild them yourself.

I would just save the money and run some properly fitted over the counter shocks.