Which rear axle differential vent hose + valve? 2000 Ranger

[rogerranger2122]

I have a 2000 Ranger
2-wheel drive
4.0 Liter 6 cylinder
70K miles


When I bought the truck, the differential vent hose was dangling 6 inches off the ground. I didn't know what it was. The idiot mechanic that changes my oil told me it's pressure relief (correct) but that I don't need to do anything to it (it was dangling and without the end cap that lets air out but not in). He's a master mechanic but apparently just didn't want to be nice and save me a potential costly repair.


So, I always thought it was fine dangling. I refurbished the rust problem under the truck this weekend. I noticed the hose missing now so I did some research and I know what it's for now.

My question is what size to buy? I google and check autozone for variations of:
"2000 Ranger rear axle differential vent hose valve breather"
but found nothing matching.

Can someone please link me what to buy exactly? I don't mind buying a few sizes and paying $2 return shipping for the ones that don't fit because I don't want to take the old one out and possibly not be able to reinstall it for some reason in case I get one of the wrong size.

I DO want the check valve that goes on the end if you can please link that too. I read some people use air filters etc but why not just spend the $10 or so and not worry about it?

I know to change my differential fluid also ASAP. I will google which type to use and hopefully don't have to make a thread. There's no tag on my differential noting which gear oil type.


The part that threads into the axle housing is !most likely fully clogged (not venting!). I tried sticking a pin in but it's like there's cement clogging it. Should I tap a nail in and force whatever's blocking the valve into the axle just for now until I get the replacement, or will the debris do more harm than good? It probably has been clogged for the 2.5 years I've had the truck but there's no seal leaks or noises from the differential so maybe the tiny pin hole that it does have is doing enough venting for now. (when I poke a nail into the valve attached to the axle, it feels like solid cement but the nail comes out slightly oily).


Also, where do I route the tip of the hose to? I don't launch a boat or anything to need a really high location and towards the front of the truck to prevent water, so should I just get about 3 feet of hose and use a wire to suspend it from the bottom of the bed right above the axle?


So I need links for (much much preferably eBay if possible):

1) The valve that screws into the actual differential as shown in the photo (of this forum allows photos).

2) The hose (and I don't mind buying the intended hose instead of some fuel line etc work-around to save ~$5).

3) The one-way valve that goes on the end of the hose that doesn't attach to the differential/axle.

THANKS!

 

[adsm08]

Wow you are over-thinking this. Like a LOT.

Take that piece out of the axle, if anything goes so horribly wrong that it won't go back in a new one won't go in either. If it is plugged with dirt clean it out, but I would not punch it in with anything and put that dirt in the axle.

Then go to the parts store and buy two feet of hose of the proper size.

The "valve" that seems so mysterious to you:

Not kidding either. That is what goes in the end of the line.

The cars and vehicles with IRS have a little rattle valve crimped over the barb that screws into the tube, but that's it. It isn't even a check valve.

 

[Mark_88]

I remember when I first found the same hose on my 88 axle and wondered why it was sort of hanging down. I searched around and found a place where it was probably connected to the frame near the underside of the box and never gave it another thought...

It did make me think about mudding and going through creeks and have that hose off...and the stuff that would fall into the gears and eventually destroy them...but then I had a beer and went to bed because I didn't go mudding or crossing axle deep bodies of water...

I did put a clamp on the end of the hose connected to the nipple but that's it.

 

[Z7What]

I agree you are over thinking it way to much. Just go by some rubber hose that will slid over that nipple and attach it to it. Then route the other end up into the frame rail somewhere. You dont have to have a breather or valve on it. You can put some sort of filter on it to not allow anything to get into it but i wouldnt worry much about it. When i bought my ranger a couple months ago i noticed my breather hose was broken when i was replacing the fuel pump. I happen to have a stainless steel braided under the sink hose that fit over it perfectly. Slipped it on secured it with a hose clamp and run the other end all the frame rail.

Wayne

 

[Curious Hound]

Pretty sure you will find that it is 1/4" ID hose. Never saw one OEM with something stuck in it, but that's just my experience.

Some people lengthen it and run it up near the top of the bed (between fender and inner bed side) and fasten it at the stake pocket. That gets it much higher to prevent water entry if you get into deep water.

My plan when I replace my axle and do the lift kit will be to put a bellows on the end and leave it clipped to the frame rail in the original location.

Also, when replacing the hose, if you attach it to the frame rail, leave enough length of hose to account for suspension travel.

Here is the bellows I will be using (click me) There are other more expensive ones available. I will connect it to the hose with a 1/4" brass barb fitting. Some people seem to think a bellows will not provide enough volume for temperature changes of the oil and air in the axle. I'm going to try it.

 

[Doofy]

Why not use a small plastic fuel filter on the upper end to keep any crud out? Cheap and effective.

 

[rogerranger2122]

that picture of the three black screws, why would I cap the end of the hose? I might as well weld the hole shut on the axle. I want the one-way air valve designed for this application. I don't want to skimp $7 and possibly damage my $2,000 differential plus a ton of work if water / moisture gets in. A cheap air filter, I don't know if that lets enough air out, and then it will get soaked from moisture and crud will build up.

I will remove the nipple shown in photo. It's soaking in liquid wrench now. And then poke/drill it out and reinstall. Hopefully it goes ok and I don't need to search out that part. Autozone had nothing in the computer for that part, there's a section called Axle Vent but there's N/A parts for it. I asked about an F-150 in case they were compatible but he'd have to order the f150 nipple ($7).

The hose, I would like to know the best type that the gear box oil won't affect it. I buy fuel line hose off ebay for mowers etc , something like this 1/4" Inside diameter for about $9 for 3' shipped should be plenty. I have some already I can check the tightness on the nipple. I will put a mini hose clamp also.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-ID-Fuel...480709?hash=item2a343479c5:g:XcAAAOxyzi9Sgtp6

or is there actually something better (in case I happen to need some special additive in my differential oil because I am going to change that once I get this fixed). I just don't want the hose melting and contaminating the differential oil.

 

[adsm08]

It isn't a screw, and it doesn't seal it completely. It's a plastic Christmas-tree push pin. It doesn't get tight enough to keep anything (especially air) in once any sort of pressure starts to build, and if it ever did get stuck like that it isn't strong enough to grab and stay stuck. Should it ever get sealed such that is doesn't vent properly it would loose it's grip on the hose and blow out long before any damage was done to the axle housing.

Ford never put a one-way air valve in there. You don't want a full-on check valve. The original hoses, just had those push pins in them to keep dirt and debris, anything that could actually plug the hose, out of it. Water was kept out by the shape of the hose. It isn't just a straight hose running up. It was shaped like a question mark, and the loop is what keeps water out. You don't want a check valve because you want the air to get back in after things cool down.

 

[Curious Hound]

Fuel hose will be great. It is resistant to petroleum products. Therefore, it will work with differential oil if any gets in or on it.

What adsm08 said is the key. air must be able to travel BOTH DIRECTIONS through this hose for expansion AND contraction. It isn't much air. But it does move. A check valve would be bad.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Water was kept out by the shape of the hose. It isn't just a straight hose running up. It was shaped like a question mark, and the loop is what keeps water out.

Kind of a backwards sink trap. Instead of keeping a puddle of water in the bottom it tries to keep a pocket of air in the top.

It is a good idea with the barbed things, my truck had nothing in the hoses from the factory.

 

[adsm08]

It is a good idea with the barbed things, my truck had nothing in the hoses from the factory.

Neither did mine. In fact the OP's probably didn't either. Most diff vents with hose like that don't. Those pins are found in transfer case vent tubs. But I figure if he insists on putting something in there, that is the way to go.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Neither did mine. In fact the OP's probably didn't either. Most diff vents with hose like that don't. Those pins are found in transfer case vent tubs. But I figure if he insists on putting something in there, that is the way to go.

I live on a gravel road and like the idea

 

[rogerranger2122]

The check valves are very common to allow air out but not in (NOT to equalize apparently). However, I see many videos of trucks similar to my 00 Ranger like the f150 or later year Rangers and they didn't have anything on the end of the hose. Again, many if not most cars have diff breathers, as long as the check valve doesn't require more pressure than your axle vent can push to trigger the check valve, then I see no harm. But that's just based on what I saw on youtube (most have the check valve).



















anyway, In case someone finds this thread for help, I made a mistake originally when I checked the metal nipple coming out of the axle that the hose connects to. I thought it was sealed shut with crud because a nail wouldn't go through the hole. I took it off today (came off easily thank god instead of stripping - I reinstalled it loosely with thread locker in case I ever need to remove it). The thing is, the hole in the nipple is actually much smaller than the opening, and my nipple wasn't clogged. the main hole for the hose is like 1/4" nipple but the hole inside the nipple is only like toothpick thin.




I had a random black hose lying around that I used. Looks like really thick bicycle tire, was something from a car at one point, so it should be okay. I'll try and remember to check it once and a while for deterioration.




1/4" Inner diameter fuel line hose (common to push mowers) will not fit the nipple on a 2000 ranger rear wheel drive, so don't order than online in advance or anything. The nipple is too big. I had 5/16 mower hose also but that was also too tight. 5/16" inner diameter hose is slightly too small, so 3/8" might fit. I would go with a slightly loose fit and then I installed a mini hose clamp screw down type I use for mowers etc.




I Routed the hose up under the frame rail (where the fuel filter is and where electrical wiring to the back is. I didn't want the opening of the hose to face down so splashes can't get up and I didn't want it facing the tire where splashes could get forced in. Not worried about it at all now. But now I have to solve the mystery what differential oil to use since the wrong kind and without potential additives might be required could screw up the whole gear box. The metal tag telling which diff I have is missing. On the housing is metal bump out letters saying RF-F07W-88. When I google that I find others mention it ending in AA instead of 88, and I did do quite a few coats of rubberized underbody protective spray on the letters recently but I was pretty sure mine ends in 88, if anything I though it was B8 or BB.

 

[Hagan]

This thread = fail

 

[Curious Hound]

Do you still have the door frame sticker? It will tell you what axle you have. HERE is a tech article to help you understand the door sticker info regarding your axle. There is another tech article about which lubricants to use if you don't have the owners manual for your truck. If you do not have limited slip or a locker, then you will be using a very common gear oil.