What's this??

[CopyKat]

We don't have AutoZone here. But it's a universal Gauge pod made by Phaze.

Remote mount turbo is a good deal for 2wd trucks that never see winter or rain. Not a good deal for a truck that see's occasional rocks, mud, or water.

 

[CopyKat]

Couple more pictures

 

[burningRANGERtires]

.. what.....

it looks amazing.

 

[CopyKat]

Couple more from today

 

[rurouni20xx]

sweet, looks good keep her going!

 

[CopyKat]

Thanks. I hope to have it running next week.

 

[shadetree]

You may not have enough pipe in front of the MAF for laminar flow so the MAF can get a good reading on the airflow.shady

 

[CopyKat]

You may not have enough pipe in front of the MAF for laminar flow so the MAF can get a good reading on the airflow.shady

Don't know what would make you think that? it's no different than any other cold air kit out there, or a stock setup for that matter. The adapter I made for the filter is large enough and is in the right spot for the sampling hole. It's getting direct/unobstructed flow to it.

 

[RacinNdrummin]

Don't know what would make you think that? it's no different than any other cold air kit out there, or a stock setup for that matter. The adapter I made for the filter is large enough and is in the right spot for the sampling hole. It's getting direct/unobstructed flow to it.

The filter creates turbulence causing an incorrect reading when you have it that close to the filter, probably something you dont want on a boosted engine. Put a bit of pipe inbetween the filter and sensor and you should be fine.

 

[Davis]

I have a blow thru MAF between the IC and TB and had horrible problems with turbulence and airflow dodging the sensor at certain airflow-rates/rpm. I had to put a 2" long piece of aluminum honeycomb in front of the sensor to straighten the flow.

 

[shadetree]

Airflow across the MAF must straight and even(laminar). You can buy flow straighteners such as the one in the pix. And as stated, you certainly do not want any problems in this area, as detonation and pre-ignition are not your friend, especially with stock internals.

If it were my truck, I would re-route the intake anyway. Being the intake is next to the hot ass turbo(these things get glowing red hot when under heavy use), the incoming air is going to be heated, also something one doesn't want. The blower heats the air enough, (sometime too much), by itself just from the pressure.

But, it is not my truck, and maybe your setup will work fine as it is.shady

 

[CopyKat]

If you look at the stock MAFS you will see it already has a screen in it. Second of all the filter has a 6 sided baffle in the center to straighten flow also. The adapter I made in a manner that the sampler hole had a straight shot of getting air flow. So the 3" pipe is not centered on the MAFS throat. Since the max opening on the MAFS is about 2.5" I had 1/2" of play to move the intake tube.

Now as for heat the turbine housing is not going to get to the point of glowing red in this application. It will not be run at 10 000 RPM under load for 4 Hours straight.

If you look close you will see that there is a heat shield I'm making that will separate the turbo from the intake filter.

I don't understand some people. They think that because your installing a turbo that your going to be running 30 psi and pushing the engine to it's full potential and have all the goodies that a fast and the furious car would have.

I'm not posting this to get help or criticism. I'm posting this to help other gather ideas for doing a similar setup. There are a bunch of turbo guys I'm friends with that have helped me with some advise. So thanks for trying to help.

 

[Davis]

If you look at the stock MAFS you will see it already has a screen in it. Second of all the filter has a 6 sided baffle in the center to straighten flow also. The adapter I made in a manner that the sampler hole had a straight shot of getting air flow. So the 3" pipe is not centered on the MAFS throat. Since the max opening on the MAFS is about 2.5" I had 1/2" of play to move the intake tube.

Now as for heat the turbine housing is not going to get to the point of glowing red in this application. It will not be run at 10 000 RPM under load for 4 Hours straight.

If you look close you will see that there is a heat shield I'm making that will separate the turbo from the intake filter.

I don't understand some people. They think that because your installing a turbo that your going to be running 30 psi and pushing the engine to it's full potential and have all the goodies that a fast and the furious car would have.

I'm not posting this to get help or criticism. I'm posting this to help other gather ideas for doing a similar setup. There are a bunch of turbo guys I'm friends with that have helped me with some advise. So thanks for trying to help.

You don't need 4 hours of WOT and a turbo to get glowing headers. I saw it on the dyno just two weeks ago when we were running a BMW bike motor at WOT for about 30 seconds. No turbo.
I also saw it on my ranger after a WOT blast when I had the stock turbo manifold and ihi turbo on it.

You may not care about any of this, and I can see that you are an excellent fabricator, but the fact remains, it WILL get hot and decrease power and increase tendency to detonate.

 

[CopyKat]

You don't need 4 hours of WOT and a turbo to get glowing headers. I saw it on the dyno just two weeks ago when we were running a BMW bike motor at WOT for about 30 seconds. No turbo.
I also saw it on my ranger after a WOT blast when I had the stock turbo manifold and ihi turbo on it.

You may not care about any of this, and I can see that you are an excellent fabricator, but the fact remains, it WILL get hot and decrease power and increase tendency to detonate.

My heat shield I built has a heat reflective mylar coating on the one side. If it melts off no big deal I'll find something else to replace it with. There is a 3" air gap around the turbo and heat shield.

The added fuel system I am running is going to mist fuel right before the TB. this is going to be more than enough to cool the intake charge sufficiently.

When guys talk about detonation, I think of the engine going lean and getting knock. Not with having air that is 10° warmer, than ambient.

 

[CopyKat]