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What's a 92 Mustang rolling chassis worth???


It's starting to sound like the title to this car is lost in title hell. The current owner mentioned applying for a title. I asked if the title was ever in his name and he said that it wasn't. Says he's tracked it back to the guy who brought it here from California and that guy is looking for paperwork.

My guess is that the guy who got it from California never transferred the title and eventually lost the paperwork. He probably never bothered to find it because it was passed on to another guy who was going to make it a drag car and not plate it.

How come nothing can ever be simple? I wish I still worked for the state. I'd know who the last titled owner was in just a few minutes. Might be time to phone a friend.
 
These are the shipping weights of the Foxes:

LX notchback: 3035
LX hatchback: 3100
LX convertible: 3240
GT hatchback: 3190
GT convertible: 3330

Sourced from allfordmustangs.com:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5-0l-talk/141091-what-weight-each-fox-body.html

Good info. Glad you found it. Shane, I was close!


It's starting to sound like the title to this car is lost in title hell. The current owner mentioned applying for a title. I asked if the title was ever in his name and he said that it wasn't. Says he's tracked it back to the guy who brought it here from California and that guy is looking for paperwork.

My guess is that the guy who got it from California never transferred the title and eventually lost the paperwork. He probably never bothered to find it because it was passed on to another guy who was going to make it a drag car and not plate it.

How come nothing can ever be simple? I wish I still worked for the state. I'd know who the last titled owner was in just a few minutes. Might be time to phone a friend.


Some things are never as easy as it seems. You've got connections, Jim. Time to find that original owner!

Good luck...
 
Accidental repost
 
I found info on line and a link to a form that you can send in to California DMV and they'll send you a list of all the vehicles previous owners.
 
With no title in hand, that drops the price.. I'd negotiate that in, if I were you.
 
I've been messaging this guy today about the title and that I don't the person who brought the car here from California ever transfered the title to an Ohio title. His reply was:

It wont matter, i will be able to get a title anyway. The guy from cali was supposed to be killed in action overseas.

I hate that feeling sometimes when you don't know if the person you're dealing with is an idiot, or they think you're an idiot.

When I take on something like this I research it. By the time I go see the car I'll know more about these cars than he does. I haven't mentioned that I saw pics of it on another site with damage. He said it's damage free. That's going to drive my price down to.

On another note.....

What should I expect to pay for a complete 5.0 with a 5-speed, computer, and harness? Hopefully I can find a donar for a plug-n-play.
 
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I've been messaging this guy today about the title and that I don't the person who brought the car here from California ever transfered the title to an Ohio title. His reply was:

It wont matter, i will be able to get a title anyway. The guy from cali was supposed to be killed in action overseas.

I hate that feeling sometimes when you don't know if the person you're dealing with is an idiot, or they think you're an idiot.

When I take on something like this I research it. By the time I go see the car I'll know more about these cars than he does. I haven't mentioned that I saw pics of it on another site with damage. He said it's damage free. That's going to drive my price down to.

On another note.....

What should I expect to pay for a complete 5.0 with a 5-speed, computer, and harness? Hopefully I can find a donar for a plug-n-play.

Just a guess, I'd say somewhere around 900-1500 for a full setup, needs nothing, ready to be installed. Variation of price will depend on cleanliness, if it's been painted/polished, mileage. What you might want to do is look for a early-90s Tbird. They're solid cars but a lot of people forget they have the 5.0 and you can usually find them for pretty cheap. Easier to come by a running Tbird than a running 302 by itself. Leaving the removal of the motor in your hands saves you money because a seller will want to make back some of their labor put into removal. Just my $.02. Some of these other guys are probably more knowledgeable because my Stangs were stock.

If you really have your heart set on that car, do it. But personally, I wouldn't touch a car from a dishonest seller. Did you check if it was stolen or anything? He's already lied about the condition/history of the car. I wouldn't put it past him to have not-so-legally acquired the car.
 
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What should I expect to pay for a complete 5.0 with a 5-speed, computer, and harness? Hopefully I can find a donar for a plug-n-play.

I would expect to pay $750-$1000 for all of that. I would suggest getting a mass air set up with the A9L computer if possible.
 
Just a guess, I'd say somewhere around 900-1500 for a full setup, needs nothing, ready to be installed. Variation of price will depend on cleanliness, if it's been painted/polished, mileage. What you might want to do is look for a early-90s Tbird. They're solid cars but a lot of people forget they have the 5.0 and you can usually find them for pretty cheap. Easier to come by a running Tbird than a running 302 by itself. Leaving the removal of the motor in your hands saves you money because a seller will want to make back some of their labor put into removal. Just my $.02. Some of these other guys are probably more knowledgeable because my Stangs were stock.

The T-Bird/Cougars/Mark VII's are an option. I wouldn't use the computer out of one though. I think a more probable find is one out of a Mountaineer or Explorer. I had the option to buy the entire motor my heads came off of for $450. The Ex/Mounty 5.0 has much better heads (GT40 or GT40P) than the factory E7TE's on the others, and they run very well with a valve spring swap and a cam. If you opt for the Ex/Mounty 5.0 you will have to have a dizzy out of a Mustang, double sump oil pan (and a Fox style oil pump setup), and I think you have to swap the timing chain cover and water pump to a Fox style.

EDIT: Also much improved on the Ex/Mounty 5.0 are the intake manifold and injectors (assuming you want to keep 19lb injectors).

EDIT #2: Here's a write up I found on swapping one into a Fox. Also, if you get a motor with GT40P heads, they require special headers, but I have regular MAC's on mine with Chevy plug wires (90 degree boots) and it clears fine. I will soon have some new headers on it though.

http://www.badassmustangs.com/forum...in_to_fox_body_mustang_faqacutes-t8130.0.html
 
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The downside of the TBird/Cougar/Explorer/Mountaineer route is that they all had automatic transmissions. So finding one of these vehicles would still require a lot of work to turn it into a manual transmission setup. You'd basically be buying of these vehicles just for the engine and still have to find all the transmission components elsewhere. I'm not sure about the computer though, can it work with either an auto or manual setup or would you have to find a new computer as well?
 
The downside of the TBird/Cougar/Explorer/Mountaineer route is that they all had automatic transmissions. So finding one of these vehicles would still require a lot of work to turn it into a manual transmission setup. You'd basically be buying of these vehicles just for the engine and still have to find all the transmission components elsewhere. I'm not sure about the computer though, can it work with either an auto or manual setup or would you have to find a new computer as well?

auto computers will work with manual transmissions, just not the other way around.
 
auto computers will work with manual transmissions, just not the other way around.

I understand that, but I know on newer (2000, for example) vehicles where the computer controls everything you run into problems swapping to a manual transmission with an automatic computer. You can fix this by recalibrating the computer. I wasn't sure if you could fix this on an older vehicle, like a 1990 TBird, or if it's even an issue. (I generally try to stay away from autos, I just know they're problems :D)
 
The downside of the TBird/Cougar/Explorer/Mountaineer route is that they all had automatic transmissions. So finding one of these vehicles would still require a lot of work to turn it into a manual transmission setup. You'd basically be buying of these vehicles just for the engine and still have to find all the transmission components elsewhere. I'm not sure about the computer though, can it work with either an auto or manual setup or would you have to find a new computer as well?

You would still want a computer out of an 89-93 Mustang, preferably the A9L. The automatic computers work, but they idle higher - like at 900 rpms. That drives me insane. Some guys actually prefer the automatic computers because they advance the timing quicker. But the nice thing about buying one of these motors out of the T-Bird/Cougar/Mark VII/Explorer/Mountaineer is they probably haven't had the piss kicked out of them like a Mustang motor would.

EDIT: You would also want the harness for a Mustang. All in all, it would be a much easier scenario to get all of the parts out of a Mustang because you know they work. But there are other options. There was just an 88 GT that sold for $1000 on the classifieds here my friend was just telling me. So maybe you can find another donor car that's trashed for cheap.
 
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Here's another one of these rollers with no engine for $1,500:

http://macon.craigslist.org/cto/2233871046.html

WTF?

I was reading a local craigslist ad for a 91 LX hatch that was in good shape and ran for $2,300. I like the guys last line in his ad:

I've seen non-running fox body's selling for 1k and up CRAZY!!!!

So what the heck? Are fox bodies turning in to gold or something???
 

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