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What is your method for kill switches?


ForgedCrank

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 30, 2024
Messages
185
City
Indianapolis, IN
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
I do this on most of my vehicles in one form or another... generally, I go for the fuel pump power on a hidden simple toggle switch.
The Ranger is a '94 2.3, and I'm thinking maybe ignition coil(s) power might be the way on this one, but might be more complicated due to the dual coils.
What are your preferred methods, and where would you tap in that is the least destructive? Is there a critical spot in the interior that I could tap?
Forgive me, I'm looking at the wiring diagrams and it's basically Chinese to me. I'm an electrical idiot.
 
I think killing the fuel pump is a better idea.

If you kill ignition... the fuel will still get sprayed through the injectors. Thus flooding the engine and contaminating the engine oil.
 
I think killing the fuel pump is a better idea.

If you kill ignition... the fuel will still get sprayed through the injectors. Thus flooding the engine and contaminating the engine oil.

ahh, good point. this is why I ask. I'm too dumb to always think things through initially.
 
Be a bit easier on yourself...

That's why we have this great place to change ideas.
 
That could work too...

Just the fact it's a manual makes it theft proof to most people these days.
 
Could go James Bond and have a code to punch in that if you do it wrong it locks the doors and fills the vehicle with knock-out gas or something… lol
 
Could go James Bond and have a code to punch in that if you do it wrong it locks the doors and fills the vehicle with knock-out gas or something… lol

Or better yet, it fills the truck cab with water, and hungry piranha get released.

edit / add: Gump has a very valid point on any kind of ignition kill. You can access the fuel pump power circuit easily, in the passenger floorboard at the inertia switch.
 
Last edited:
I think killing the fuel pump is a better idea.

If you kill ignition... the fuel will still get sprayed through the injectors. Thus flooding the engine and contaminating the engine oil.

Fuel pump, truck will still start but then act like an all around POS before it will not run discouraging further theft attempts.
 
Or better yet, it fills the truck cab with water, and hungry piranha get released.

edit / add: Gump has a very valid point on any kind of ignition kill. You can access the fuel pump power circuit easily, in the passenger floorboard at the inertia switch.

I'll look at that one too, might be easier to splice without making a DIY mess. getting under the dash to scout it out is a chore for when this dang hurricane rain goes away.
I know it all sounds silly for a 1500 dollar Ranger, but someone stole one of my cars once when I was younger and I don't care if it's a 50 dollar beater or a 50K dollar truck, it REALLY pissed me off having my stuff stolen by some worthless scumbag. I just like adding something unknown so even someone with a key will have to work in order to get the thing started. The least I can do is be a pain in their ass.
 
On something older with one coil I'd run a wire from the ground side of the coil under the dash to a grounded toggle switch. By pulling the ground side of the coil to ground all the time, no spark.

On something newer, I probably would do the same with one lead of the crank position sensor. Never tried it, should work.
 
I would not open crank sensor wiring.

That could open a can of worms best not opened.
 
Starter and fuel interrupts are easily bypassed. In general, opening a circuit with a toggle switch is not a good idea, because you've introduced a component that could fail and leave you stranded.

Pulling a single circuit to ground with a single wire is easier to disguise and less intrusive to the truck.

As I mentioned, I haven't tried the CKP to ground, and the four cylinder Rangers use a CKP that has power running to it which usually means hall effect instead of reluctor. But the CKP output goes to pin 4 of the PCM and would be easy to do with a short wire since the PCM is through the firewall.

The worst that would happen is you'd kill the CKP.
 
@ForgedCrank
I no longer have A/C in either of my rigs, I like to use the A/C on switch, unpressed no start (ignition circuit open). Hince the little blue light is always on, even in the winter ..)
 
I would not open crank sensor wiring.

That could open a can of worms best not opened.

yea I'm a little itchy about that as well. When I was re-assembling the engine recently, I spent time adding extra "armor" to that wire run for that exact reason.
 

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