What is going on here?

[ricardoguitars]

Two unknown hoses coming from the firewall attached to nothing, a unknown small gray hose loose, and a unknown knob attached to the A/C system. Gotta love previous owners getting creative, lol.

 

[Mark_88]

Those cut hoses are the heater rad and it is either not needed where you are are or it sprung a leak and that is the easiest fix...remove the hoses and route the coolant back into the engine. I've done that a few times...got me home.

The small one in your hand probably goes into the blower controls and makes the vacuum controls work to redirect the air or close off the system. There is usually a round ball that is connected in there. The ball is a check valve that maintains vacuum so the engine doesn't die. The end you are holding comes from the firewall so it is essentially a non issue. The other end if left open creates a vacuum leak so check that and plug it up if open.

 

[Craig0320]

Two unknown hoses coming from the firewall attached to nothing, a unknown small gray hose loose, and a unknown knob attached to the A/C system. Gotta love previous owners getting creative, lol.

That one in your hand goes to the heater control valve.
https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2015/10/03/18/57/pic-2963326900238610180-1600x1200.jpeg
Click on the link there is a picture of it.
The control valve stops the water from flowing until heat is selected in the cab.

 

[ricardoguitars]

That one in your hand goes to the heater control valve.
https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2015/10/03/18/57/pic-2963326900238610180-1600x1200.jpeg
Click on the link there is a picture of it.
The control valve stops the water from flowing until heat is selected in the cab.

I guess the heater is missing, are the two big hoses on the firewall part of the heater system?, they have rust inside, looks like they carried coolant.

 

[Curious Hound]

The heater core (looks like a miniature radiator) is inside the cab behind the glove box. Those two pieces of hose coming from the firewall are clamped onto the metal inlet and outlet pipes of the heater core.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Craig0320]

I can tell you if the heater core is not hooked up and it has rust inside of it it was most likely leaking water into the floorboard and that would be the reason why it was bypassed. if it is leaking bad enough you could run some water through it with a water hose and if it is bad plan on moving the dash far enough back to get to the bolts. going to take around 3 hours to do it

 

[Mark_88]

That one in your hand goes to the heater control valve.
https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2015/10/03/18/57/pic-2963326900238610180-1600x1200.jpeg
Click on the link there is a picture of it.
The control valve stops the water from flowing until heat is selected in the cab.

Oh, good catch...my 1996 didn't have that valve for some reason...maybe the previous owner removed it or it simply wasn't part of the setup with no AC.

Not sure what year Ford started doing this, but the 1996 had to remove the dash to change the heater rad. Up to 1992 it was a fairly easy part to change from inside the cab...but dropping the dash is easy enough...only 5 bolts and the steering wheel detached is all that it needs...and maybe a helper because they are a bit awkward.

But from what I recall, you live in Costa Rica...which probably means you may never actually need a heater...

 

[ricardoguitars]

Any idea what is that knob supposed to do?.

 

[ricardoguitars]

Oh, good catch...my 1996 didn't have that valve for some reason...maybe the previous owner removed it or it simply wasn't part of the setup with no AC.

Not sure what year Ford started doing this, but the 1996 had to remove the dash to change the heater rad. Up to 1992 it was a fairly easy part to change from inside the cab...but dropping the dash is easy enough...only 5 bolts and the steering wheel detached is all that it needs...and maybe a helper because they are a bit awkward.

But from what I recall, you live in Costa Rica...which probably means you may never actually need a heater...

Yep, no heater needed, but is it needed for the windshield de-mist?, I do need that one when it rains.

 

[adsm08]

Yes. Heat is needed for the defroster to work properly in colder weather.

If the AC works you can get away with it, if it isn't cold out. Dry hot air is the best thing for clearing fogged glass. Dry cold air is next best. Then just hot air.

 

[tomw]

The control is likely a cutout switch for the compressor clutch. You can adjust the temperature that the compressor is disabled to prevent freeze-up of the evaporator.
It is a guess that the switch is connected to the compressor clutch, and is an 'add on' item. I don't think most had that control from the factory.
If there is a tube connected to the switch that leads back into the evaporator core, it would tend to confirm that someone added a 'cold control'(the same as used in a refrigerator) to help keep the system from freezing. A 'bulb' is attached to or close to the evap to sense temp. When the evap gets to 32F or freezing, or just above, the 'cold control' would open up, and de-activate the compressor clutch. Ingenious use of local parts to take the place of factory, always made of unobtainium when you are a few thousand miles from the factory with little local manufacturer support.
tom