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What hitch to use?


masanders

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 16, 2016
Messages
218
City
Greenville, SC
Vehicle Year
2000
Engine
2.5 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Tire Size
235/75/15
My credo
Don't get louder, improve your argument.
We just moved into a new house and eventually I’ll have to tow the lawn equipment from my mom’s house to mine. What hitch class should I use?

Looking at Rock Auto...
 
Standard riding mower, push mower, trimmer, edger
 
any class 2 or above will be sufficient for that task.

AJ
 
I think it's just class 3, pretty much anything with a 2" receiver should be just fine, even the small 1 1/4" would work but the insert options on those are lacking... I put a Clarke hitch on mine I think and it went on ok, took a little screwing around since it's completely universal but it went on.
 
Congratulations on the new house!
 
for a one time tow job? how heavy is the trailer and load? how far?
you may be able to use the bumper,
 
Id always use a 2” receiver hitch, it will help brace up the frame like a extra crossmember and you have plenty of drawbar options. Accessories such as a bike rack come in the 2x2 size commonly. ( if you have or end up with a cap its quite difficult to put bikes in the back) sure theres times & situations where just putting a ball on the bumper will work but having a beefier hitch than you need is never a bad thing.
 
Class 3, 2 inch ball is my standard go to.

Landscape and maintenance by profession for over 20 year
 
I use a 2" receiver and whatever ball is necessary for the trailer. I have lots of various sized balls.
 
For no more weight that you are mentioning a Class 2 receiver hitch would work fine, however the Class 2 (1-1/4") accessories are non-existent and cost as much if not more than regular 2" Class 3 and 4 stuff.

I did install a Class II Receiver hitch on my 87 Ranger and 88 Bronco 2 but that's the max limit I'd ever try to want to tow behind either and the Class 2 receiver on my Ranger is rated higher than the towing capacity of the truck so no worries about overloading anything.

If I were you I'd just install the Class 3 receiver hitch and make your life easier with the 2" receiver tube as accessories for those are very easy to find new and used. I'd also get the 7 pin RV connector as well because it can be adapted down to any other plug for lights. Even if you just have the 4 pin flat connector I'd put the 7 pin RV plug on as its a more secure plug in connection, at least in my experience, after dragging a 4 pin plug/harness for who knows how far thus destroying it because it came unplugged at some point on a back road.
 
for a one time tow job? how heavy is the trailer and load? how far?
you may be able to use the bumper,

What is the bumper rated for? 1,000 pounds I thought, maybe more? Its not rated for Class 2, I think its just a class 1 rating which I think is only the 1,000lbs I'm thinking of maybe?
 
My red 92 had a Class 2 on it when I got the truck and I left it alone because I haven’t seen any reason to do otherwise. I have, however, manufactured my own accessories as needed for that size hitch (made my own adjustable drawbar and Pintle mount for that size because that’s what hitch mom’s Explorer has and the little trailer we use - 6.5’x11’ - has a pintle ring because I hate ball hitches).

Both my Blue and Green Rangers have Class 3 hitches because, well, I bought the hitches for them and saw no reason to put anything less than a class 3 on anything. Dump truck has a plate style mount with a combination pintle hitch. F-150 has a class 4 with weight distribution because the big trailer has a lot of tongue weight and was starting to bend the frame at the end of the class 3 that was originally put on it. So I wanted a longer, heavier mount that could spread the weight better.

All either have, or are getting 7-pin plugs. It’s just easier for me and there tends to be less corrosion issues.

Granted, I have a big equipment trailer, small trailer, tow dolly, tow bar, and boat. That and I have a firm belief in overkill and being prepared for anything. For a one-time move, as long as your bumper is solid, you would likely be just fine with that. For someone like me, the bumper is just woefully inadequate.
 
My red 92 had a Class 2 on it when I got the truck and I left it alone because I haven’t seen any reason to do otherwise. I have, however, manufactured my own accessories as needed for that size hitch (made my own adjustable drawbar and Pintle mount for that size because that’s what hitch mom’s Explorer has and the little trailer we use - 6.5’x11’ - has a pintle ring because I hate ball hitches).

Both my Blue and Green Rangers have Class 3 hitches because, well, I bought the hitches for them and saw no reason to put anything less than a class 3 on anything. Dump truck has a plate style mount with a combination pintle hitch. F-150 has a class 4 with weight distribution because the big trailer has a lot of tongue weight and was starting to bend the frame at the end of the class 3 that was originally put on it. So I wanted a longer, heavier mount that could spread the weight better.

All either have, or are getting 7-pin plugs. It’s just easier for me and there tends to be less corrosion issues.

Granted, I have a big equipment trailer, small trailer, tow dolly, tow bar, and boat. That and I have a firm belief in overkill and being prepared for anything. For a one-time move, as long as your bumper is solid, you would likely be just fine with that. For someone like me, the bumper is just woefully inadequate.

My 2008 Explorer has the class 2 receiver as well, kind of strange given its rated to tow 7,000lbs LOL, but hey it keeps you well within the capacity only being able to tow 3500lbs with that class 2 receiver.
 
Towing threads are the best.
 
I saw a Jeep at it's max towing capacity a few weeks ago.

20210422_170438.jpg
 

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