hmmm I like the idea of a shrader valve at the end... my luck would be a large piece of debris/ rust would get caught and it wouldn't close... which while not the end of the world would make me have to get the Shrader valve tool and depressurize the the system to clean it out...
at work (when I worked at a factory) i saw actual sediment bowl attached to a valve similar to the one i have hooked up to the reel that you can undo a drain nut at the bottom of the bowl to blast out the crud. the fancier ones had an automatic setup as soon as the bowl filled, they would automatically open, but those were on the main plant air lines which I have no need for a 1 or 2 inch air line lol. there is that feature in the pressure valve I have attached to the reel. That valve is already at the lowest point of the line (when I put it in) for the hose side. the best part is you can see the water/ condensate fill up. in the last 13 years, that bowl never got water in it where the tank itself did. But the last house did not have near as much pipe as I am putting in this one and i manually hooked up a soft line to the workbenches if I wanted air to them.
If this a good setup, I may just get another one of these valves and hook it up just before and below the workbench pipe on the other side of the garage.
so to the masses (lobbing another grenade back
@Rick W if nothing else to put a small dent in his helmet, would this be an acceptable clear out point? attaching close up pics of the valve system in question
AJ
View attachment 124658View attachment 124659
One would think that the moisture would blow to the end of the line as the air flows through the line, but that’s not always correct. It condenses out of the air throughout the whole system. So when you do your piping, just have a little tiny bit of fall to the low spots, and put the drain points there.
If you’re using iron pipe, drill a hole in the drip leg cap, and use one of the Schrader valves like you see on a bigger truck, the ones you have to tighten up with a nut, not the cheap ones you just pop in. Worst that would happen is you’d have to shut your air off, take the cap off and clean it out, and put it back together. I’d be amazed if that happens once every 10 years.
When I put in my drip legs, I always make them on the long side when using PVC. If one were to get really messed up, I could just cut it off and glue a new one on in its place. If that were ever to happen repeatedly, before I used up the last bit, I’d put a coupling on and another longer Drip like. BTW, in a dozen or 15 PVC systems I’ve had or I’ve worked with over the years, I can’t remember replacing even one.
I run my air at about 80 or 90 psi max, and I have it on a mechanical count down timer switch. Compressed air is a money and energy suck. I rarely use it for more than a few hours at a time and I don’t let it run what I’m not using it. So if one of my Schrader valves gets messed up, I can just let the pressure off, take the Schrader valve guts out, and pressure up the system to hopefully blow out whatever. I can also use my little portable compressor and just put it on the Schrader valve as if I was inflating a tire and blow whatever back into the system. That’s far from ideal, but I’m not having to depend on this thing like a lot of you guys. And beyond my system, when I finally get it finished, I have two or 300 feet of airline, and I live on a half acre property, so I would never be stuck without air anywhere. Ditto for my neighbors.
Answer afterthought, if your pipe is clean when you’re putting it in, and you put a cheese cloth over the intake of your compressor to act as an air filter, I don’t know where you’d get any debris from anyway, so it’s mostly the moisture you’re dealing with
My two cents, hope it helps
EDIT: water is never good, so you want to try to get it out. But unless you’re doing something pretty sensitive, like compressing breathing air, a little bit of oil passing through the system shouldn’t hurt anything.
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and 
