What did YOU do today?

[Rick W]

Lincoln cost me $3.33/pound ($50).

First check out tuneup was five times that.

Removing 2 1/2 ounces of him down below cost me right at $600 ($300/nut).

Since then, the annual oil change is only about $125.

He eats a little bit of what I eat, and his healthy premium dog food is about $20 a bag, but it lasts him a couple months.

The little stuffed animals from the Goodwill store are only $1.01 each, but we’re up to about fifty or sixty now. There’s about 30 strewn about at the moment, so I have to make a trip and resupply, and then purge about 10 of them that are no more than rags at this point.

Silver linings? He has three or four of them from the first batch that I bought him over three years ago. They are absolutely his favorites, and he doesn’t tear them apart, he just plays with them. Specifically, the little monkey, the red bone, and the red bear. Sometimes I lay in the floor and wave them about or drag them back-and-forth and chases them, and of course I let him catch them. Then he’s on his belly with his paws holding it down, and he chews on them, but he doesn’t tear them apart. I use my fingers to slowly crawl up on them from the side, and at the last minute, he’ll throw his paws down and jump his head over and growl at my hand.

And I don’t know how I would sleep these days if I didn’t have 20 little stuffed animals all around on the bed.

And of course, the big Cat in the Hat is the love of his life. I haven’t added up what the laundry detergent costs from washing that thing.

I wouldn’t trade a minute…

 

[Curious Hound]

Dog's are like Rangers. Adding up the cost takes all the fun out of it.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Well, I got a hf retractable hose reel for Christmas several years ago. It along with my air compressor I made sure I took down from my old house and brought to the new house. And it all stayed in a 27 gallon tote for 9 months.

So this week I put two 2 x 4 beams onto the wall, each screwed into a stud with 9 3" deck screws
This gave me a solid base to mount the hose reel with 3 out of 4 2 inch lag bolts. Now I gotta find the 4th one

Now the next step is running black pipe from the compressor to the hose reel and to my workbenches on the other side of the garage. Got enough pipe and fittings to go to the hose real. Will get more later on and will just cap the section going accross the garage off.
Oh and yeah... need to run a 220 outlet for the compressor...

Nevermind the mess...

AJ

 

[Rick W]

Well, I got a hf retractable hose reel for Christmas several years ago. It along with my air compressor I made sure I took down from my old house and brought to the new house. And it all stayed in a 27 gallon tote for 9 months.

So this week I put two 2 x 4 beams onto the wall, each screwed into a stud with 9 3" deck screws
This gave me a solid base to mount the hose reel with 3 out of 4 2 inch lag bolts. Now I gotta find the 4th one

Now the next step is running black pipe from the compressor to the hose reel and to my workbenches on the other side of the garage. Got enough pipe and fittings to go to the hose real. Will get more later on and will just cap the section going accross the garage off.
Oh and yeah... need to run a 220 outlet for the compressor...

Nevermind the mess...

AJView attachment 124568View attachment 124569View attachment 124571View attachment 124572View attachment 124573View attachment 124574

All good, but iron pipe is hard work. Is there a reason you’re not using PVC? What pressure compressed air are you running? I’ve done it and I’ve seen it done for years and years, you just have to make sure the glue sets for 24 hours.

My two cents, hope it helps

 

[Curious Hound]

All good, but iron pipe is hard work. Is there a reason you’re not using PVC? What pressure compressed air are you running? I’ve done it and I’ve seen it done for years and years, you just have to make sure the glue sets for 24 hours.

My two cents, hope it helps

I've seen pvc rupture when used in cold weather. It gets brittle and doesn't like rapid pressure changes from tools that create air pulses like water hammer, or even the pulses from the compressor. I, personally, don't like it for air piping.

I bought a system for my air piping that uses a 3 layer tubing. Outside layer some kind of plastic, probably nylon. Middle layer aluminum, inner layer another plastic to prevent corrosion. Uses compression fittings with ferrules, similar to Swagelock tubing fittings. It was easy to install and seems to be working great. My ex-father-in-law is always having to repair his PVC air system.

 

[Roert42]

3rd opinion here.

I’ve always used copper with soldered fittings and never had an issue. Can even take it apart later and rework the layout without much fuss.

 

[Snoranger]

Yeah… I’ve seen PVC explode below 175 psi in a compressed air system and I’ve seen 150 psi rated black pipe handle 2500 psi in a hydraulic system. I don’t know about you, but I know which one I prefer.

 

[97RangerXLT]

for the run that I will use on the black pipe, my biggest aggravation will be hanging it on the wall (got a bag of pipe clamps for that). I do live in the frozen midwest, and we get single digit weather quite often (several weeks worth this year) so PVC is out. if you look at the garage pics, I have about a 3' verticle run from close to the compressor up to about 8 inches from the ceiling, another three foot run from there horizontally into the corner where the water heater is, another 3' run horizontal from the water heater corner to the reel where I will T it off, one going downa couple inches and one going up a couple inches. the down leg will get an elbow and a reducer fitting to hook the flexible hose of the reel. the upper leg will get an elbow and travel horizontally roughly 6' to the corner (going above the door to the laundry room_) and another elbow to go around the corner towards the furnace. the wall towards the furnace will get about a 4' run and then fitted for another short piece of flex hose that I can easily remove to service the furnace (no way in hell it is going to be able to go behind it) and that flex hose will be in front. then it will meet up with another run of pipe above the cabinets to the corner, and another run towards the work bench with a 3' vertical drop next to the work bench with another short flex hose to hook up the work benches. with the flex hose in front of the furnace, I will likely do at least one quick connect. so I should be able to do all of this without even using a union fitting as there is only a couple major bends.

The workbenches themselves already have black pipe running behind them and are connected to each other with a short flexible hose so that I can move them if needed, each workbench has a quick connect at the end for a coil hose. when I get done, I should easily be able to reach the street with even the reel and if not that I have a 50' hose I can hook to the end of the workbench if needed.

Future plans I might T off next to the compressor to go behind the refrigerator and put a quick connect near the outside door next to the fridge (not in the pictures) with that I should be able to reach the Shed of Wonders with shop air. But since I eventually will put electricity in the shed, I may opt for a local small compressor for that space if need be...

shop air is set for 120 psi, if you notice in the pics I have a airflow valve going into the reel where I can take that lower if need be. I also am planning to put one near the workbench as well.

AJ

 

[97RangerXLT]

3rd opinion here.

I’ve always used copper with soldered fittings and never had an issue. Can even take it apart later and rework the layout without much fuss.

an idea... but my guess is the cost of the copper and the labor of sweating the fittings will make it a "nope" for me.

AJ

 

[JoshT]

Dodged the rain drops reinstalling door latches in the F-250 rear door.

Last couple weeks I've sporadically been checking things off the to-do list on that truck. Started with being a decade+ overdue for a coolant change, somewhat important on those diesels, and thinking that it had a stick open thermostat due to lack of heat when warm. I mean it produced warm air, but not as warm as I though it should be and it never really got much above the cold mark on the gauge. These trucks have a massive cooling system so the symptom was logical for a stuck open thermostat. Got that drained, t-stat wasn't stuck but was too low of temperature rating.

Also due for oil change, so while the coolant was drained and the oil was drained, it would be a good time to replace the LPOP and see if it cures a hard start issue I've had since owning the truck (and dad had before). It's been a proven fix on a few ocassions, and I've exhausted all less invasive possibilities. Aparently once they get low the oil from the HPOP reservior (or atleast the feed galley) will drain back down into the oil pan after sitting a few days, takes a bit to pump up and refill.

Have also decided I was going to rebuild the fuel bowl and ohm check the glow plugs. On hold for a parts delivery, hopefully tomorrow, but I'm not holding my breath. While I'm waiting for those to arrive, I decided to tackle other odds and ends I've procrastinated on. This past week I got the 3-in-1 gauge (Boost, EGT, FP) installed. Installed combo voltmeter and usb sockets to replace power port. Fixed cloged window squirter. Attempted to "refresh" driverside door seal (pull surgical tube through it), but it's too far gone. Shot the wiper arms with a fresh coat of trim black while they were removed for the window squirter. Last thing I started on yesterday was fixing the PS rear door that's been stuck since before I got the truck in 2021.

Got the panels pulled working from the frond door between the seat and the door, fished around inside and managed to pop the latches. Rangers are much easier get open with broken door cable ends (atleast the handle end), but atleast on the 250 I don't have to drill and install rivets. Anyhow I got the ends installed late yesterday, and wouldn't you know it decides to start raining last night and all day today.

Fortunately the doors latched together and held shut well enough to keep the rain out. I figure I better get them reinstalled before the weather turned worse or my luck gave out. Since the break in the rain lasted long enough I reinstalled the freshly painted wiper arms with new blades. Maybe between the fixed squirter and new blades I'll be able to see out of the clean cracked window.

 

[Curious Hound]

for the run that I will use on the black pipe, my biggest aggravation will be hanging it on the wall (got a bag of pipe clamps for that). I do live in the frozen midwest, and we get single digit weather quite often (several weeks worth this year) so PVC is out. if you look at the garage pics, I have about a 3' verticle run from close to the compressor up to about 8 inches from the ceiling, another three foot run from there horizontally into the corner where the water heater is, another 3' run horizontal from the water heater corner to the reel where I will T it off, one going downa couple inches and one going up a couple inches. the down leg will get an elbow and a reducer fitting to hook the flexible hose of the reel. the upper leg will get an elbow and travel horizontally roughly 6' to the corner (going above the door to the laundry room_) and another elbow to go around the corner towards the furnace. the wall towards the furnace will get about a 4' run and then fitted for another short piece of flex hose that I can easily remove to service the furnace (no way in hell it is going to be able to go behind it) and that flex hose will be in front. then it will meet up with another run of pipe above the cabinets to the corner, and another run towards the work bench with a 3' vertical drop next to the work bench with another short flex hose to hook up the work benches. with the flex hose in front of the furnace, I will likely do at least one quick connect. so I should be able to do all of this without even using a union fitting as there is only a couple major bends.

The workbenches themselves already have black pipe running behind them and are connected to each other with a short flexible hose so that I can move them if needed, each workbench has a quick connect at the end for a coil hose. when I get done, I should easily be able to reach the street with even the reel and if not that I have a 50' hose I can hook to the end of the workbench if needed.

Future plans I might T off next to the compressor to go behind the refrigerator and put a quick connect near the outside door next to the fridge (not in the pictures) with that I should be able to reach the Shed of Wonders with shop air. But since I eventually will put electricity in the shed, I may opt for a local small compressor for that space if need be...

shop air is set for 120 psi, if you notice in the pics I have a airflow valve going into the reel where I can take that lower if need be. I also am planning to put one near the workbench as well.

AJ

Something to consider, may not be as critical for you up north. Where you have a vertical coming down to an elbow to serve the hose reel, and maybe at the far end if everything, also; use a tee instead of the elbow. Then put a 4"-6" long nipple with ball valve and plug on the end. This gives a sediment trap for debris and condensation to collect. Every few months, remove the cap, hold a bucket under the nipple and crack the valve to blow condensation, etc. Out of the traps.

 

[JoshT]

Then put a 4"-6" long nipple with ball valve and plug on the end. This gives a sediment trap for debris and condensation to collect. Every few months, remove the cap, hold a bucket under the nipple and crack the valve to blow condensation, etc. Out of the traps.

While we're adding, put one on the bottom of the tank too. Your tank should already have a drain plug built into the bottom, but out of sight out of mind. Most of us don't even think about draining the condensation out of the tank occasionally, I'm guilty of it myself, but it's the #1 cause of them rusting out. If you put a trap and valve out from under the tank where you see and think about it, it's a simple matter to drain it somewhat regularly.

 

[Rick W]

You know guys, we’re getting to know each other at this point. Stop beating around the bush. If you guys don’t like the PVC idea, just tell me!

Honestly, I didn’t think about the cold. (BTW, what is cold? What does that mean?)

@Curious Hound, beat me to the punch, I was gonna say put the tiniest little bit of slope on the runs and provide for drain valves for the condensate. But whatever you do, don’t use PVC ball valves for the drains!

 

[Rick W]

Lincoln cost me $3.33/pound ($50).

First check out tuneup was five times that.

Removing 2 1/2 ounces of him down below cost me right at $600 ($300/nut).

Since then, the annual oil change is only about $125.

He eats a little bit of what I eat, and his healthy premium dog food is about $20 a bag, but it lasts him a couple months.

The little stuffed animals from the Goodwill store are only $1.01 each, but we’re up to about fifty or sixty now. There’s about 30 strewn about at the moment, so I have to make a trip and resupply, and then purge about 10 of them that are no more than rags at this point.

Silver linings? He has three or four of them from the first batch that I bought him over three years ago. They are absolutely his favorites, and he doesn’t tear them apart, he just plays with them. Specifically, the little monkey, the red bone, and the red bear. Sometimes I lay in the floor and wave them about or drag them back-and-forth and chases them, and of course I let him catch them. Then he’s on his belly with his paws holding it down, and he chews on them, but he doesn’t tear them apart. I use my fingers to slowly crawl up on them from the side, and at the last minute, he’ll throw his paws down and jump his head over and growl at my hand.

And I don’t know how I would sleep these days if I didn’t have 20 little stuffed animals all around on the bed.

And of course, the big Cat in the Hat is the love of his life. I haven’t added up what the laundry detergent costs from washing that thing.

I wouldn’t trade a minute…

I stand corrected. When Lincoln read this, he let me know pretty quickly that it’s the red monkey, not a red bear. And I forgot the bunny puff. It’s like a woman’s powder, puff with a bunny face on it and bunny ears.

That’s better. Now watch it!

- Lincoln


Side note: so far, so good with the blonde nurse….

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

for the run that I will use on the black pipe, my biggest aggravation will be hanging it on the wall (got a bag of pipe clamps for that). I do live in the frozen midwest, and we get single digit weather quite often (several weeks worth this year) so PVC is out. if you look at the garage pics, I have about a 3' verticle run from close to the compressor up to about 8 inches from the ceiling, another three foot run from there horizontally into the corner where the water heater is, another 3' run horizontal from the water heater corner to the reel where I will T it off, one going downa couple inches and one going up a couple inches. the down leg will get an elbow and a reducer fitting to hook the flexible hose of the reel. the upper leg will get an elbow and travel horizontally roughly 6' to the corner (going above the door to the laundry room_) and another elbow to go around the corner towards the furnace. the wall towards the furnace will get about a 4' run and then fitted for another short piece of flex hose that I can easily remove to service the furnace (no way in hell it is going to be able to go behind it) and that flex hose will be in front. then it will meet up with another run of pipe above the cabinets to the corner, and another run towards the work bench with a 3' vertical drop next to the work bench with another short flex hose to hook up the work benches. with the flex hose in front of the furnace, I will likely do at least one quick connect. so I should be able to do all of this without even using a union fitting as there is only a couple major bends.

The workbenches themselves already have black pipe running behind them and are connected to each other with a short flexible hose so that I can move them if needed, each workbench has a quick connect at the end for a coil hose. when I get done, I should easily be able to reach the street with even the reel and if not that I have a 50' hose I can hook to the end of the workbench if needed.

Future plans I might T off next to the compressor to go behind the refrigerator and put a quick connect near the outside door next to the fridge (not in the pictures) with that I should be able to reach the Shed of Wonders with shop air. But since I eventually will put electricity in the shed, I may opt for a local small compressor for that space if need be...

shop air is set for 120 psi, if you notice in the pics I have a airflow valve going into the reel where I can take that lower if need be. I also am planning to put one near the workbench as well.

AJ

Make sure you put drains on all the drops and low spots. You don't want water to collect there.

Oops... Everyone already said that...lol.