What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


or. The truck has an aftermarket cruise control (that doesn’t work) that’s tied into this thing. What does it do?
Probably part of the cruise. Sometimes the amplifier and servo are separate items.

But that's just a guess.
 
Probably part of the cruise. Sometimes the amplifier and servo are separate items.

But that's just a guess.

Thanks, but no. The cruise has a crimp connector tapped into one of the lines, but that black thing on the fender, to me, is obviously OEM Ford.
 
Thanks, but no. The cruise has a crimp connector tapped into one of the lines, but that black thing on the fender, to me, is obviously OEM Ford.
It’s probably some test connector. I saw something in one of my EVTMs that referred to a “VIP test connector” and I’ve seen that odd connector shape hanging out capped in these trucks before
 
Today I figured out where the power steering leak on the '97 Ranger, it's the dang power steering pressure sensor... whole thing is wet so the internal seals gave out now that it makes any pressure at all...
 
Well, welding has recommenced on the green Ranger. Got everything dragged out and most of the remaining frame braces cut/drilled/fitted/tacked/partially finish welded. Have to finish welding that all in plus one little piece, then I can move on to the frame repair.

Center console is in my shop to work on. Currently it’s getting a final wiring setup. I didn’t like how it was before because it was a cobbled together mess borne out of necessity and lack of just about everything. So now it has new fuse panels and the harness for it all is being constructed. I’ve gone old school and splices are getting soldered. Exhaust fan in the shop works great (I remembered to turn it on after filling the shop with soldering smoke, lol).
 
Well, welding has recommenced on the green Ranger. Got everything dragged out and most of the remaining frame braces cut/drilled/fitted/tacked/partially finish welded. Have to finish welding that all in plus one little piece, then I can move on to the frame repair.

Center console is in my shop to work on. Currently it’s getting a final wiring setup. I didn’t like how it was before because it was a cobbled together mess borne out of necessity and lack of just about everything. So now it has new fuse panels and the harness for it all is being constructed. I’ve gone old school and splices are getting soldered. Exhaust fan in the shop works great (I remembered to turn it on after filling the shop with soldering smoke, lol).

Hey, don’t knock “cobbled up mess.”

Speaking for a friend…
 
@Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto came over again tonight and helped me with my endless list. He got a promotion at work, he’s smokin’ it!

After looking at something on his cute little brunette’s Buick ( I know, I know, but he’s a young buck), he helped me with both of my Rangers.

We swapped one of the drive tires for one of the idler tires on the Road Ranger. With the stage three clutch, it always spins the right drive tire, and the tread is half gone. I have to find an inexpensive, just-bolt-in locker.

We did the same thing on the Missing Linc, but because the driver side front tire was showing wear on the outside. After we jacked up both sides and swapped the tires, we jacked up the whole front end. The original 310,000 mile ball joint on the driver side is shot. I’ll order one.

It was a great time, drinking coffee and telling lies, except we didn’t have any coffee, and we ended up sitting in the front of the Road Ranger so he could see the new clock/volt set up. We talked about his gauges on his 86, and a few other things, and then the old man ran out of energy and Lincoln had to be fed.

With my client’s real estate disasters, and the cute little brunette’s new roof coming on Wednesday, it was a long day, but a good day

Jack and I are taking the rest of the day off…
 
Did some light farm fabrication playing with my new TIG welder, it's a good thing it's not structural or important because I need a LOT of practice before I'm anywhere near proficient... should work though. My current practice level is really hard on tungsten's
 
Hey, don’t knock “cobbled up mess.”

Speaking for a friend…
Oh the cobbled mess worked well enough, but when it came time to remove the console so I could finish it since it originally got put in before it was done and I’m tired of it not being done, well, it was a headache to remove. Birds nest wiring nightmare. I couldn’t even bring myself to take a picture of the mess. It worked, but was far less than ideal and I can’t deal with that in my space, it needs to be neat. And the console needs to be practical to remove. It’s not like I don’t have the knowledge and ability to do it right at this point.

That aside…

You’re not going to want a “lunchbox locker” in the Road Ranger. They have lousy road manners and don’t take abuse well. A limited slip will have much better road manners. Either a stock one and do the extra clutch disk mod (you can also get Kevlar clutches), or get something like the Tru-Track that is gear driven.
 
Oh the cobbled mess worked well enough, but when it came time to remove the console so I could finish it since it originally got put in before it was done and I’m tired of it not being done, well, it was a headache to remove. Birds nest wiring nightmare. I couldn’t even bring myself to take a picture of the mess. It worked, but was far less than ideal and I can’t deal with that in my space, it needs to be neat. And the console needs to be practical to remove. It’s not like I don’t have the knowledge and ability to do it right at this point.

That aside…

You’re not going to want a “lunchbox locker” in the Road Ranger. They have lousy road manners and don’t take abuse well. A limited slip will have much better road manners. Either a stock one and do the extra clutch disk mod (you can also get Kevlar clutches), or get something like the Tru-Track that is gear driven.

On the locker, @lil_Blue_Ford or anyone, I’ve reached out on this before. Most of you guys are experts far beyond my mechanical knowledge and ability, but I think I really have a simple need, and I don’t want to spend a great deal of time or even a little money I can avoid.

The Road Ranger, as I call it, is exactly that: It is a road-only vehicle, a truck for pulling and hauling. The closest I ever come to going off concrete or asphalt is to park on the grass next to the road, or maybe to drive on to a construction site, and both of those are pretty rare. It’s also just a big toy. I don’t have to rely on it, I don’t have to use it to get around, I’m not making a living with it. Hence, I don’t need the best way of installing a limited slip, nor even a pretty good way of installing a limited slip. All I need is for both tires pull from a stop, or maybe when I’m on a wet road on an incline. And I think if I put another 10,000 miles on this truck before I leave this earth, that would be amazing.

Number one, all kidding aside, please define what you call “bad road manners.” From my research, some of the comments say when making turns there may be a clicking sound or bumping sound from the locker. That’s fine with me, the whole truck rattles a little bit with that extra axle anyway. My research shows that you might feel it an I reach shows that you might feel it a little bit when it slips/clicks in a sharp turn, but other than that, it doesn’t affect the driving. Again, my main interest is so that it pulls on both tires. It doesn’t have to do anything fancy other than pull on both tires going in a straight line. A slight difference in gas mileage isn’t a problem, but I wouldn’t want to cut the mileage in half.

I’ve seen the videos where you can weld whatever to make it a straight axle. I don’t want to do that. I want to find the least expensive (&100?) thing I can find that an amateur can bolt in the rear end, hopefully without having to reset the pinion gear and all that, which I’ve never done. I have pulled the axles out before, but not much more than that on a rear end.

If it starts getting past $150 or $200 for the part, I can get all kinds of tires for far less money than that. Of course I don’t want to burn the tires, but the little screech can be a little embarrassing every time I let up the clutch. I’m thinking if it pulled on both tires from a stop, it wouldn’t do that at all. If I’m next to a cop at a traffic light, I always let him go first, so he doesn’t think I’m busting his chops. And the grab/slip on the incline happened for the first time when I went to the Carlisle Truck Nationals. I was pulling the trailer on the way back to the hotel, got caught at a traffic light on a short little steep rise, and I basically spun the tire on the wet road until the back axle crested the hill. Alternative would’ve been to get the guy behind me to pull away, back up, and get it running start before the next light. You know why I don’t have to worry about doing that.

So once again, any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I’m not looking for many options, I’m looking for a cheap locker I can bolt in in a couple hours, that will last 15 or 20,000 miles at least if I don’t abuse it

Thanks in advance
 
With a lunchbox locker, it will release/ratchet and provide differential operation IF no torque (positive or negative) is being supplied from the pinion. So, I am in the habit of taking my foot off the accelerator, or even pushing the clutch in while make sharp turns. This allows the locker to release and causes the clicking sound that people complain about. If torque is applied through the turn (or any time), the locker locks and the axle acts like one solid bar from side to side - no differential action. So, this puts extra twisting force on the shafts. That can cause accelerated wear on tires in addition to the stress on rotating components inside the axle.

It should be noted that a locked rear axle can break traction easier on wet/slippery surfaces. This can be dangerous if you're not expecting it.
 
With a lunchbox locker, it will release/ratchet and provide differential operation IF no torque (positive or negative) is being supplied from the pinion. So, I am in the habit of taking my foot off the accelerator, or even pushing the clutch in while make sharp turns. This allows the locker to release and causes the clicking sound that people complain about. If torque is applied through the turn (or any time), the locker locks and the axle acts like one solid bar from side to side - no differential action. So, this puts extra twisting force on the shafts. That can cause accelerated wear on tires in addition to the stress on rotating components inside the axle.

It should be noted that a locked rear axle can break traction easier on wet/slippery surfaces. This can be dangerous if you're not expecting it.

Thanks. I think I understand what you’re saying, and none of that bothers me. Nobody is doing any hot rodding in this truck, just steady straight down the road stuff.

Can you point me to a “lunchbox locker,” again, not something unfamiliar with
 
BTW, 355 open 8.8 rear end
 
Spartan and powertrax lockrite are 2 of them. Mine is an Aussie. I think Detroit has a "lunchbox" or "drop-in" style. If your axle is a 28 spline axle, there are fewer options.
 
Spartan and powertrax lockrite are 2 of them. Mine is an Aussie. I think Detroit has a "lunchbox" or "drop-in" style. If your axle is a 28 spline axle, there are fewer options.
Powertrax also has one that they classify as a limited slip. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two, but apparently there is a difference. It could be tooth angle or how the rod cams the mechanism. 🤷‍♂️
 

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