Drove my '93 XL with WAY more than 300K miles on it after a ICM change, found an issue, and came back to the forums looking for answers, found that apparently my last post was in 2017. So posted my issue, posted my location, and commented here, realizing eight years flew by, and none of my projects on MY vehicles got worked on, and all the quick improvements for the '93 are still stacked on a pallet in the barn, the last time I welded was making a quick 3-point log skidder frame right after Helene, and box for my "new" 20-ton HF press has completely disintegrated a long time ago, but at some point I converted my first 20 ton press to air over hydraulic.
And like the run-on sentence above, apparently my life has been in a run-on phase.
I'm with
@pjtoledo on this one. Welcome to normal, at least for this place.
If it makes you feel any better, I'm got a Harbor Freight 20 gallon compressor and shop pedestal fan out back that are both in the same condition. New in box under the carport where I put them years ago. Or at least in what's left of the box.
Bought the compressor several years ago because my former one, also 20 gallon HF, died after many years of neglect and weather exposure. Months later I hadn't needed to unbox it yet, and dad found a hidden circuit breaker on the old one. Reset breaker and the old one went back to working, an dI never had need to unbox the new one. Since then I bought a second hand 60 or 80 gallon tank with a new pump and bad motor that we fixed. The new 20 gallon is still there in the box.
The shop pedestal fan and a shop "box" fan were both bought a couple of years ago when I was going to clean up the carport and start a couple of projects under there. The "box" fan made it into a corner of my living room where it still resides in the box, and the pedestal fan made it to the carport.
Hopefully all of the above will actually work when/if I unbox them.
Yeah I'm constantly int he run-on phase of life too.
It's got all these features that I have no idea about and there's no owners manual to tell me.
It's in the radio. Yeah, I don't understand it either, but it's apparently in there. Dad bought a '21 F-150 new off the lot and it did not come with a physical copy of the owners manual, it's buried in the infotainment center in the dash. It was anoying to him and now that I have the truck it's annoying to me. No excuse for not having a physical copy. If the truck isn't getting power dur to a fuse, I can read a physical copy, I can't even look at the digital one.
That is one thing I hate about the used vehicle market. It's a crap shoot on whether the vehicle comes with one or not.
New ones don't even come with them now, at least that '21 F-150 didn't come with a physical copy. Hopefully they've corrected that mistake and are shipping them again.
When I measured it with the tape measure, the offset was about 4 1/2 inches and the Ranger offset was about 5 inches if I recall right. We pulled off his front wheel and we tried one and just steered it back-and-forth on the Jack. The wheel fits fine
Yeah I was going to say that buy looks like you figured it out the hard way. The older Jeep stuff (some of it) has the correct 5x4.5 lug pattern, but less backspacing than Rangers. It fits, but sticks out further than the Ranger wheels, and that isn;t always a bad thing.
You do have to watch it on the aluminum Jeep wheels. The pattern and backspacing are both same as steel, but the center bore is too small on at least some of them.
Also pulled a pending 0420
Did it develop the munchies too?
ive changed coolant fluid at least twice in past ten years,
Did you change it, or did you have it changed?
I'm going to assume the latter since you were not aware that it was the orange/yellow stuff. If you paid someone to do it, there is no telling what they may have put in the system. The coolant that Rick mentioned claims to be compatible with all, but there are some coolants that react badly to different to being mixed. It may be safer to do a flush and change to avoid any potential bad reactions.
If doing it yourself, you aren't saving that much money by doing a drain and fill instead of a flush and fill, mostly saving time. You don't really need a chemical flush unless it's contaminated, just need to clear out all of the old. If it were me, I'd drain the system, fill with straight water, and drive for a bit to circulate and mix the residual well. Some would suggest using only distilled water in your cooling system, and that is best, but I'll use tap depending on local water quality. Repeat a few times and you'll have practically all of the old coolant out.
After flushing do the following:
- Drain system as much as possible/practical. I'd pull the bottom hose too.
- Add with required amount of straight coolant (not 50/50). If cooling system capacity is 10 quarts, use 5 quarts straight coolant to get a 50/50 mix when finished. Your owners manual should have capacities.
- Fill the rest with straight water.
- Bleed cooling system, and top off with straight water again. (IMO a cooling system bleed funnel is worth buying)
Reason for doing this instead of filling with 50/50 is that is is impossible/impractical to completely drain the cooling system. As such when drained you will have residual water in the block and heater core. If you add 50/50 your resulting coolant will have a different ratio once mixed with the residual water int he system. Since you've flushed the system with straight water, the adding the proper amount of straight coolant and and topping it off with water will give you pretty close to the desired 50/50 coolant mixture.
It may take a few days of driving for all air pockets to work out of the system, and for those subsequent top offs you will want to add a 50/50 mix to avoid diluting the coolant.
Hopefully that made sense instead of adding confusion.
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